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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Replaced a leaky water pump (gmb, approximately 140k miles), the tensioner because it comes in the kit, and a super stretched dayco belt today, didn't have time to burp it good or set the base time and she felt soggy, ended up getting warm on the turn around of my afternoon commute so we got ice cream while we waited to pop the cap and get air out. I made a cam timing change and adjusted the valves while I was in there, but there is a light tick that won't go away on #3 or 4 and I'm kinda thinking lma as I triple checked lash at 3 angles to verify. Also the plugs are reading lean, counter to my wideband which is usually just a bit richer than I'd like to see normally, so I'm probably needing to replace or upgrade some stuff there.
 

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Crazy story man wow. Sorry it got taken. Can’t believe you were able to salvage it like that and get it back on the road that’s awesome you must be super determined! I’m shocked at how shiny the inside of that transaxle looks. It’s like it just rolled out of production yesterday!
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Thanks, it took longer than I would have liked, but with everything that went down that year it was to be expected. Good maintenance is why that trans looked so nice, trans oil gets changed every other oil change, so about 10k miles, but elbow grease, extremely hot water, and a pressure washer were involved as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Got base timing dialed in, set idle, ect. I retarded cam timing a bit more to see what happened, I was told by the shop that builds my axles that I need to pull torque out or pay every time I wear them out, they are sick of me needing entire new axles every year, lol. So I went all the way from 3° advanced to 1° retarded at the cam, and pre timing it was soggy and gutless til 4200 and I was worried I'd gone too far with it. After dialing it in (was at 12, now at 16) its a bit better, coming on about 2800, not what I'm used to honestly and I was bummed until a big rig gave me the option of dropping into 3rd and punching it or be squished. She hit 5100 rpms and then I bounced off the rev limiter, im thinking wtf, did I break loose? Slap it back into forth and she bolts forward again! Completely different animal and I certainly didn't expect that kind of behavior from a port shape designed pretty much only to increase atomization, I never even got flow numbers when I had it on the bench because that wasn't the point of the build.
After that I decided to play a bit and did a few pulls as opportunities presented themselves. this last year she has wanted to walk around a bit, hard on the throttle from 1600 to about 4200, but only a bit... well it's rock steady now until 3800, then that walking around starts and just keeps getting worse, so I'm pretty sure the bushings found their service limit, feels like when I originally shredded the stock rubber lower control arm bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Azure Automotive tire Art Paint Bicycle part
Automotive tire Light Rim Alloy wheel Hubcap

I'm just going to start calling fel pro headgaskets Doug, "Another day, another Doug"
looks like #4 went a bit lean so I ordered fuel Injectors today, probably LONG over due as this set has some 540k miles on it.
I did get a couple decent shots of port work on the intake side, after I get it scrubbed up I'll see if I can get exhaust side. I also have an assortment of spare rockers, shafts and lmas to to dig through and try to kill that annoying tick. New import direct axles going in and I'll be advancing 1° at the cam to see how it effects power delivery, hoping to find a sweet spot that won't destroy axles but still has down low so I don't feel the need for vtec all the time.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Didn't you just replace this gasket?!
Yeah like 13k miles ago, I was in a huge hurry at the time, must have screwed the pooch somehow, or ended up with det from the injector on #4 going lean.
Trixie MK2 must be the Grand Master's Champion:



Please post when you replace it so we can all say, "See you later new Doug"
Will most definitely, lmao.

In this scenario I would say boost is the Hulk.............. another day, another Doug
Not even boosted, just too much compression and timing for it to go that lean:confused:
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Then Trixie is the Hulk, and your poor head gasket is Thor :)
When the cam timing is where it was when it popped I sure felt like I was riding the hulk, lol. Got to get the bushings done.
I went a bit overboard polishing the head surface, cant even get a picture of it, everything just glares out, lmao. 800, 1000, 1500 and ending at 2000 on 3/8 thick 3 ply plate glass. they included a warning about surface finish in this set, im guessing due to complaints, their d series MLS can be finicky, though this was possibly the shortest lived one on a 10:1 na build ive ever seen.
The new laser weld one for my wifes d17a1 had no such warnings, and the coating was noticeably different, we took that for a 5 hour round trip with no issues but a small evap leak code that popped up a day or 2 later and has been nagging me off and on for years, every spring and fall until temps steady out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Wood Art Sculpture Artifact Circle
Light Organism Font Musical instrument Auto part
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Lighting was good last couple days, don't think I've ever been able to get clean shots of port work, lol. This head has lots of time into making it and it's manifold atomize, with the 9 bench runs probably somewhere around 100 hours, the atomization is the only reason this motor dosent blow itself up more often running a stock ecu I think.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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I ran 14:1 on Felpro MLS head gaskets back in the day. Never had one issue.

Two suggestions:

1). Copper Spray the thing before you install it (I know it has the blue coating, I didn't care, I've always copper sprayed them and never had an issue).

2). Quit dickin around and tune it, or allow one us to tune it with/for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I did use the copper spray this time, though it wasn't an issue on this motor before, the last felpro went 120k or so and took abuse for 3 years, though that did have a demon and wideband at the time, wasn't until a few months of running it untuned that it went, also had fpr and kill switch issues im sure helped it along.
I need to pick up an s300, had one sitting for the car, had to sell it, ordered another, sold it, so now just need to order another, lol. Probably am going to need some pointers on smanager, I've been leaving tuning to others for so long im sure stuff looks different now.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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I did use the copper spray this time, though it wasn't an issue on this motor before, the last felpro went 120k or so and took abuse for 3 years, though that did have a demon and wideband at the time, wasn't until a few months of running it untuned that it went, also had fpr and kill switch issues im sure helped it along.
I need to pick up an s300, had one sitting for the car, had to sell it, ordered another, sold it, so now just need to order another, lol. Probably am going to need some pointers on smanager, I've been leaving tuning to others for so long im sure stuff looks different now.
Well, you don't have to go so deep as S300 for it to just work, and work well. You can get a chipped obd1 ECU, download HTS, and we can walk you through it. It's actually quite simple if you have a strong mechanical background as you do. You already understand the need for fuel and timing as throttle position (air intake) changes. You also likely understand how air temperature and coolant temperature (and their associated sensors) can effect a tune. Then its just logging, and timing and fuel adjustments in the tables. And you'll likely pick up a lot of power in the mid range if it's done right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Well, you don't have to go so deep as S300 for it to just work, and work well. You can get a chipped obd1 ECU, download HTS, and we can walk you through it. It's actually quite simple if you have a strong mechanical background as you do. You already understand the need for fuel and timing as throttle position (air intake) changes. You also likely understand how air temperature and coolant temperature (and their associated sensors) can effect a tune. Then its just logging, and timing and fuel adjustments in the tables. And you'll likely pick up a lot of power in the mid range if it's done right.
I'm competent but a little over safe tuning, or was. It's been a while, and the software has come a loooong way, so going to need to sit and figure it out.
Shes back together and running, I pulled the base timing back 2° for safety sake, found some gel in #4 injector screen, and a leaky manifold side o-ring, new injectors didnt get here until a few hours after I finished, so probably tomorrow I'll switch them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Its been a bit, I got stuck in nissan lala land on a vg30i-e swap
But Mk2 has been running full bore for a while now, chiped the ecu, replace a transistor, resoldered a few things that got missed when I put this ecu in, and loaded the summer time tune I had backed up from the previous demon ecu, logging 39 mpg average pulling hard and smooth, No det climbing the hill in 110° temps.
The poly bushings are now shot, along with the struts and rack, so during the 2 week school break a refit is in order, as well as an alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
In all honesty that was the 3rd start, im having issues learning the YouTube, give me a view months, im old...
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Thinking of going spherical, adjustable upper and link arm in the rear, seems like the tech should be far enough along that some mid-high range price options should be able to keep noise to a minimum while offerring a non binding adjustable length support and link. I'd love to hear some reviews of pertinent parts right now as I'm buzzed and shopping🤪
 

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Thinking of going spherical, adjustable upper and link arm in the rear, seems like the tech should be far enough along that some mid-high range price options should be able to keep noise to a minimum while offerring a non binding adjustable length support and link. I'd love to hear some reviews of pertinent parts right now as I'm buzzed and shopping🤪
For the civic?

PCI Racing 100% :)
 
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