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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
thought i would start a thread of random advise for working on hondas and whatever that you might only know or that others might see useful. just wanted to see if this work out.

example
-when doing energy suspenion rta bushings leave collars in and cut away rubber with air hammer.
-when doing regular bushings burn em out the cut a slit in collar they will slide out.
-when pressing in ball joints put a 1/2 in ball in socket joint in the cup (upside down) of a 1-1/4 in shallow socket. and put a 6 in or more extension on it and hammer on the end of the extenion.
-if you have a stuck snap ring on wheel bearings. put a small flatty in the hole of one end and hammer it towards the gap.
-dont buy cheap extended wheel studs
-when rolling fenders cut slits in lip every 4 inches you will practically be able to bend the lip with your hands. and cut out that little part of the bumper up to where the screw is holding it oon
-if your super slammed in the front there is a lip in the middle of the fender pie cut like previously mentioned and hammer flat too.
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
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3,890 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
-Just swapped a z6 block in an ej8 and the knock sensor has to be screwed in the block cant be hanging
-also used the cfk bypass trick worked good if you need to use it search it the thread explains bettter than me.
-when installing stubborn axles have somone spin it whil you tap lightly on the cup with a sledge.
-if you need a nipple capped, take a hose and screw in a screw/ bolt slighly bigger than the id of hose.
-crank pully tool can be loaned for free at most autoparts stores.
 

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- Break top hat bolts loose before lifting the car to change struts and springs.
- The pointy end of the file that holds the handle on can be used as a punch.
-- long files get around tranny cases nice to pop out bitch pins for example.
 

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-tie rod and ball joints can be removed by hitting the knuckle where they seat with a 2lb hammer, instead of tearing through the boots with a fork style splitter
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
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3,890 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
-tie rod and ball joints can be removed by hitting the knuckle where they seat with a 2lb hammer, instead of tearing through the boots with a fork style splitter
how did I forget to mention that

great addition
 

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when doing a head gasket

-so long as waterpump and tensioner are in good condision, like if you blow a head gasket on a fresh(ish) motor

mark belt and cam gear with paint pen. loosen tensioner and keep tension on the belt as you remove...have zip ties handy and ziptie to strut bar(keeping tension all the while. unbolt intake and push back twoards firewall, unbolt header, leave the dizzy attached. unbolt head, lift and install new gasket, bolt it all back up. keep tension on the belt as you cut the zip tie and line up the marks and slide on, retension belt....no need to find tdc, no need to retime the motor...and you have a fresh headgasket in under 20 min

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dont plan on one day to install coilovers....make sure you have 1/2" socket set, breaker bar, 3ft+ helper, open ended wrenches, minimum cheap propane torch, sawzaw, angle grinder with a few fresh blades, and several spare grade 8+ bolts/nuts, new lca bushings or lca's and lots of pb blaster....and start a 2-3xday regiment a week prior to doing the install....
 

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and one of the most important

wood and drywall screws never and i repeat never belong on a car!
 

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Premium Member
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559 Posts
when doing a head gasket

-so long as waterpump and tensioner are in good condision, like if you blow a head gasket on a fresh(ish) motor

mark belt and cam gear with paint pen. loosen tensioner and keep tension on the belt as you remove...have zip ties handy and ziptie to strut bar(keeping tension all the while. unbolt intake and push back twoards firewall, unbolt header, leave the dizzy attached. unbolt head, lift and install new gasket, bolt it all back up. keep tension on the belt as you cut the zip tie and line up the marks and slide on, retension belt....no need to find tdc, no need to retime the motor...and you have a fresh headgasket in under 20 min

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dont plan on one day to install coilovers....make sure you have 1/2" socket set, breaker bar, 3ft+ helper, open ended wrenches, minimum cheap propane torch, sawzaw, angle grinder with a few fresh blades, and several spare grade 8+ bolts/nuts, new lca bushings or lca's and lots of pb blaster....and start a 2-3xday regiment a week prior to doing the install....
and pb blaster a fews days ahead of time

nvm missed that part
 

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748 Posts
When working on:
alternator, oil cooler/warmer, cooling lines, metal cooling tube that goes in the back of the water pump, and the back motor mount/ t-bracket
are a lot easier with the Intake manifold off.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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3,983 Posts
and one of the most important

wood and drywall screws never and i repeat never belong on a car!
I've had to use wood screws before for interior pieces that screw into plastic receivers, the stock screws had chewed them up too much and a more aggressive wood screw's threads got a better bite on less fucked up plastic.
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
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3,890 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
i did not want to believe it but those splined sockets are better than 6 pt, and a godsend
 

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Another way to separate the ball joint from the hub and lower control arm is to jack up the hub, then place a combination wrench long ways between the hub and LCA and lower back down on the jack stands. It will sometimes pop out on it's own from the pressure, other times you have to hit it with a rubber mallet. I believe I saw this originally on HT years ago. Here's a brief video describing it:

BTW, great idea for a thread OP!
 

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Much easier to instal IM with motor out of car.
Remove rear LCA when removing exhaust. 3 bolts for a lot more room.
 

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B-series Destroyer
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