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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, i’m new to this forum. I have a 94 Civic EX and i’m pulling the tranny off to replace it (bad synchros and input shaft bearing) with a rebuilt synchrotech tranny with carbon synchros.

I was talking to my cousin who is a honda tech at a dealership and he said that the transmission to engine bolts are torque to yield. Is that true or...? Cause i looked in the service manual and it says they get torqued to 43 lb ft. He also said they often break in the block, so its good to replace them every time. True or false?

I’d also like for you guys to post any tips or tricks for the job if possible. Please be detailed as I am relatively new to the Honda game. I had an 84 Accord with a couple mods, but this is my first Civic.
 

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Torque to yield simply means the type of bolt. They stretch a bit so they clamp better than the average bolt. You still torque them, but they are absolutely a one-use product because they stretch.

I assume that answers your question.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know what torque to yield means, my question is: Are there torque to yield bolts on the transmission-to-engine bolts on my car?
 

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My guess would be yes, but the only way you’d know 100% is by removing it. Even if it didn’t, I’d probably get some anyway.

The reason I answered your question that way was because you made it sound like TTY bolts weren’t torqued to the same spec as normal bolts. TTY bolts would still get torqued to 43 ft-lbs.
 

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What makes you guess that it does? Not trying to be stand off-ish, just trying to learn. I have removed them, will they have certain markings/stampings or can you see the stress marks or something?

Its okay. I know they do, just trying to find out if thats the case for my transmission to engine bolts. I only see those used on head bolts/studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guess I should have just looked up how to identify a tty bolt. face palm

Thanks for the replies, Sam. I’ll check my fasteners later on today.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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people reuse them all the time. I wouldn't worry about it unless you plan on buying some ricer dress up kits.
 

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There's plenty of searching you can do on the pros and cons of it. It's been done, but I really would not recommend it. I haven't seen any issues personally, but there are plenty of stories online. If for nothing else, do it for your peace of mind. You're already ripping the thing apart. You might as well replace them while you're there.
 

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I suppose locale is important, are you in the snow/rust belt areas? If so, you might have more trouble BUT...

Those M12 bolts are incredibly beefy to only get torqued to 45ish ft/lbs. I've never replaced those bolts, ever. They are also not TTY. Solid shoulder all the way down to the threads, and they are 10.9 grade steel.

The only ones I could see needing to be replaced are the M10 bolts that hold the starter in, as one bolt is longer than the other, it passes through the starter and bolts to the engine block. These are still not TTY. I could see that one breaking if being man handled enough, although I've still never replaced those bolts lol. If you have a good torque wrench, and only go to the recommended torque, I don't think you will have an issue.

Editing because of Transzex's post: Same boat as him, I almost never use a torque wrench on the M12's. Snug em down gently with a breaker bar lol, seriously they are that strong.

You're more likely to pull threads out of the block if they get corroded in the block threads than to snap one of those M12 bolts.

If you do pull threads in the block, get an M10 or M12 helicoil set, install an insert and roll on.

Screenshot_20200127-202141_eBay.jpg
 

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Okay, that’s my bad. Had some TTY’s come out of mine so I assumed it would be the same.

Sorry if it sounded like I was trying to undermine, I’m just going off my experience.
 
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