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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. I have been searching around for cylinder head torque specs once a turbo is installed. Is there additional torque that is needed?

Thank you.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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factory head bolts? aftermarket studs?
 

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Turbo doesnt effect the head bolt torque. Get studs if you are worried about head lift.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Noob. Lol.

Turbo doesnt effect the head bolt torque. Get studs if you are worried about head lift.
Thank you. Aftermarket bolts (Fel Pro). My D17 build blow head gasket. It did not overheat either. Checked flatness and it seemed okay. I am closing it back up now.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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according to their website, those bolts are "torque to yield" which means, one and done. hope you don't plan on reusing them.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
according to their website, those bolts are "torque to yield" which means, one and done. hope you don't plan on reusing them.

Yes I will be using them only once. If the head is still leaking after this, I am going to do a fresh D17 build. Going to do it right the next time. Lol.
 

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Keep in mind, honda left the head bolts torque spec very loose to be combined with the usage of the shitty compound gasket.

Use a MLS gasket and torque the bolts to 65-75 pounds if you want more load stability.

else studs are the best alternative to getting more holding power without going oversize
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Keep in mind, honda left the head bolts torque spec very loose to be combined with the usage of the shitty compound gasket.

Use a MLS gasket and torque the bolts to 65-75 pounds if you want more load stability.

else studs are the best alternative to getting more holding power without going oversize
Sweet advise. I did get the MLS gasket so I should be fine. I will try for 70 pounds and see where it take me. Is there a work in time were I should re-torque the head bolts?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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@matt, if theyre stock replacement bolts, wont they reach their max torque at the factory specs? anything beyond that would push them past their ratings.....
 

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Yep, but only if you use the OEM hodna sourced bolts. Else the 3rd party's just reuse the d15/d16 bolts for their d17 kits.

My D17 engine held up fine to 85 lbs so far with ultra cheap ebay bolts. I cleaned the threads, ran a tap to freshen the edges, clenaed the holes again, and dipped the bolt heads and washers in motor oil.

But I also copper sprayed the gasket and bottom of the head.

Spun bearing made that motor last less time than needed, but after the headgasket prior (bought car with it leaking anyways), the car liked the slight jump in compression the MLS gasket offered. Or maybe it jsut like not chugging coolant.

I dunno, gotta ask the internetz if skittles helped the potato power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bl
Yep, but only if you use the OEM hodna sourced bolts. Else the 3rd party's just reuse the d15/d16 bolts for their d17 kits.

My D17 engine held up fine to 85 lbs so far with ultra cheap ebay bolts. I cleaned the threads, ran a tap to freshen the edges, clenaed the holes again, and dipped the bolt heads and washers in motor oil.

But I also copper sprayed the gasket and bottom of the head.

Spun bearing made that motor last less time than needed, but after the headgasket prior (bought car with it leaking anyways), the car liked the slight jump in compression the MLS gasket offered. Or maybe it jsut like not chugging coolant.

I dunno, gotta ask the internetz if skittles helped the potato power.
Blessings. I have closed up the head and things are going great. I will be keeping my oil changes in check so I can reduce the probability of spinning the bearing. My next move will be getting this engine tuned. I am running Kpro w/ RSX camgear and stock internals. Hoping to get around 180 HP out of it. :censored:
 

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rsx cam gear? what?
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
rsx cam gear? what?
Yes. So to make the RSX ECU ( Kpro modified) compatible, so it can run with the D series, the cam gear has to be swapped out. From what I have seen, the RSX camgear has different trigger points which sends cam position to the sensor. I don't know if anyone can back me up on this.
 

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The RSX only ever used the K series engines, which are all timing chain driven camshafts.

Please share how you achieved this frankenstein chain to belt conversion :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Or better yet a camgear and
The RSX only ever used the K series engines, which are all timing chain driven camshafts.

Please share how you achieved this frankenstein chain to belt conversion :)
The RSX only ever used the K series engines, which are all timing chain driven camshafts.

Please share how you achieved this frankenstein chain to belt conversion :)
Lol. So you guys see how much I know :cry:. That is why I am here so I can learn from you guys.

To add he matter at hand. I was of the impression that the RSX used a timing belt. So what I think they did was build a camgear for the ad series that mimics the timing of the RSX so that the RSX's ECU could work with the D Series.

Here is a link for the package.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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"AEM cam gear for D17 engines that has specially modified teeth for use with the new K series RSX ECU."

looks like it just has a tone wheel modified to the cam gear



and weren't those the old cam gears that failed a bunch of times? wonder if they were just a bad batch, or installer error
 

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It is simply a removable cam sensor tooth ring that they flipped and re-installed.

You can make this on your own by simply grinding down the d17's extra tooth, and booger-welding a tooth on the opposite side of the main tooth it is near. Grind it down smoothly and make sure to shape the new tooth properly, and it will trigger just fine.


That is the ONLY change. You must ensure you are 100% accurate on angle distance and tooth "width" for the k-pro to activate the cam sensing properly.
 
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