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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I have a d16z6 With a vms racing cam gear. I am installing a gates racing timing belt. When everything is timed and set, and I rotate the engine, the timing belt gets partial jammed up on a couple teeth of the cam gear. How do I fix this issue. Thanks
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Have you checked the VMS gear against your stock gear to make sure the tooth count and spacing is the same?

Can you confirm on Gates website using the timing belt part number that the belt you have is indeed for your application?

What is the part number on your blue belt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The vms gear has 38 teeth and the stock gear also has 38 teeth. I’m using a Gates T224RB timing belt made for 92-00 civics.
 

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Spacing between stock gear and VMS is the same?

224RB should be correct.

Can you post a video or picture of what this "jamming" looks like? The visual will describe what to check next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok I tried to do a quick video but the option to upload video isn’t there. I just see photo option only. In the photo the belt rides on the cam gear teeth then snaps down. When it snaps down you can hear it and a little easier to pull through.
135757
 

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Any reason you are not using the stock cam gear?

Take them off and put them side by side.

What is the difference?


That timing gear looks like ricey chinese shit that will break at the hub.

GE made a better gear. Or the 3 Bolt AEM gears. Or the no-name Chinese variants.

Why you want stress-riser spokes on your cam gear is beyond me..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Any reason you are not using the stock cam gear?

Take them off and put them side by side.

What is the difference?


That timing gear looks like ricey chinese shit that will break at the hub.

GE made a better gear. Or the 3 Bolt AEM gears. Or the no-name Chinese variants.

Why you want stress-riser spokes on your cam gear is beyond me..........
Wow someone having a bad? anyways, It’s a built motor. Speedfactory no notch rods with vitara pistons. Skunk2 cam, springs, retainers. Not sure if VMS is a bad brand but i saw several others running them without complaints. i figured I would use an adjustable cam gear for tuning rather than stock.
 

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Slack in the belt like that on the non-taught side of the belt is due to the tensioner not being tight enough.

Think about it, when you rotate the crank in normal CCW rotation, you are using the crank sprocket to "pull" the belt downwards, driving the cam. This side of the belt (between the cam gear and the crank gear) is typically always being pulled tight by the rotation of the crank (minus the typical crank speed variation in between power pulses).

The side of the belt you are having issues with depends on the tensioner pulley to keep the belt tight and engaged in the teeth of the pulley. You need to try tightening the belt again.

Typically if the timing marks line up currently even with the slack you are showing, you can retension the belt by turning everything to TDC#1, making your crank gear line up with the oil pump mark and the cam gear line up with the head appropriately. Once these are lined up, turn the crankshaft and move the cam gear an additional 3-4 teeth towards the side of the belt between the crank gear and the cam gear, to make this side of the belt taught.

Once you have this side of the belt taught, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, and let the tensioner pulley spring pull the pulley up into the trailing side of the belt. This spring pressure is all that is required to keep the belt tight. Once the spring has pulled the belt tight, tighten the tensioner bolt and torque to spec.

Rotate crank again a few times and check the belt tension on both the leading and trailing sides of the belt. Repeat the above process if necessary, but just know a "tiny" bit of that motion in the belt is normal, and due to variations of the cam spring pressure and crank position.

The only reasons I can think of for the tensioner spring not to properly tension the belt using the method above:
  • The spring is missing
  • The spring is weak
  • The head/block surfaces have been shaved to the point where the tensioner pulley slip joint is maxxed out.
As long as you don't find yourself in the third bullet point above, you should be able to get your belt tight.



Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Slack in the belt like that on the non-taught side of the belt is due to the tensioner not being tight enough.

Think about it, when you rotate the crank in normal CCW rotation, you are using the crank sprocket to "pull" the belt downwards, driving the cam. This side of the belt (between the cam gear and the crank gear) is typically always being pulled tight by the rotation of the crank (minus the typical crank speed variation in between power pulses).

The side of the belt you are having issues with depends on the tensioner pulley to keep the belt tight and engaged in the teeth of the pulley. You need to try tightening the belt again.

Typically if the timing marks line up currently even with the slack you are showing, you can retension the belt by turning everything to TDC#1, making your crank gear line up with the oil pump mark and the cam gear line up with the head appropriately. Once these are lined up, turn the crankshaft and move the cam gear an additional 3-4 teeth towards the side of the belt between the crank gear and the cam gear, to make this side of the belt taught.

Once you have this side of the belt taught, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, and let the tensioner pulley spring pull the pulley up into the trailing side of the belt. This spring pressure is all that is required to keep the belt tight. Once the spring has pulled the belt tight, tighten the tensioner bolt and torque to spec.

Rotate crank again a few times and check the belt tension on both the leading and trailing sides of the belt. Repeat the above process if necessary, but just know a "tiny" bit of that motion in the belt is normal, and due to variations of the cam spring pressure and crank position.

The only reasons I can think of for the tensioner spring not to properly tension the belt using the method above:
  • The spring is missing
  • The spring is weak
  • The head/block surfaces have been shaved to the point where the tensioner pulley slip joint is maxxed out.
As long as you don't find yourself in the third bullet point above, you should be able to get your belt tight.



Hope this helps!
Hey thanks. I tried your method. Did it twice and nowboth sides are not Loose. The belt and cam gear is meshing right. Thanks again
 

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94 civic lx sedan
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VMS Makes garbage products. Why risk your motor? You invested in other quality parts. I had a particular B series come in with the full vms package. The cam gears were off timing @ 0 , it was difficult to set the timing properly to tune the car. My tuner and I ended up tearing the gears off and slapping on a set of stock gears. Car made 200hp
I suggest you purchase a cam gear from somewhere else. Aem , Golden eagle , Skunk2 , spoon , toda , bisimoto .

an aem cam gear is all of $103 AEM Tru-Time Cam Gear - 88-95 Civic / 93-95 Delsol (D15/D16 SOHC)

-Chino
 

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DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT BUY THAT PIECE OF SHIT AEM 5 bolt CAM GEAR!!!!!!

Unless you want a wall ornament. Get an old solid design that won't crack and destroy the motor. Like the 3 bolt design.

 

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DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT BUY THAT PIECE OF SHIT AEM 5 bolt CAM GEAR!!!!!!

Unless you want a wall ornament. Get an old solid design that won't crack and destroy the motor. Like the 3 bolt design.

Yea there is barely any material securing the drive hub to the rest of the gear on the 5 bolt versions. Super shitty.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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16+ years on here and I rarely post in CAPSLOCK. I'm dead serious on this.

I won an auction on eBay years ago, got two 5 bolt AEM cam gears for $75 (IIRC) shipped. Then Xavier blew up a stout CRX ITA motor when the AEM cam gear let go.

I have an AEM wall ornament still. I won't sell it. I don't wanna see someone trash a motor. The other I gave to a SCCA National Champion, I asked for it to be pulled from the ITB motor. A 16 penny nail now holds it in place on a wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
now I’m at the interesection of confusion. But what I do gather from all of these posts is that there isn’t a plethora of reviews on any specific cam gear being “generally” bad. There are only a couple at most. And those couple through reading through the post don’t have definitive answers as to why they have failed. All opinions. I believe you can buy a high quality item and there will be a small percentage of items due to failures. Some more than others. Some installed incorrectly by the user which leads to failure and some manufacture failure. I will keep my Vms cam gear and torque it to specs and see how that goes.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT BUY THAT PIECE OF SHIT AEM 5 bolt CAM GEAR!!!!!!

Unless you want a wall ornament. Get an old solid design that won't crack and destroy the motor. Like the 3 bolt design.

quoted for all the truths
 
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