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Hello ladies and gents. Recently i acquired a 98 ek hatch. Has already been y8 swapped ect. After owning not even 2 week found out she had head gasket leaking (exhaust side) so i pulled the head to replace and found out my cam journals where beyond repair and so i trashed the head. Then i decided to drop engine entirely and freshen it up to do a boost build. Cylinder walls look great can see cross hatching ect buuut. When i pulled the pan i stroke gold!!! (copper from bearings)

Then i decided to remove rod caps ect so i removed my crank griddle found some bad scarring and scarring on the crank. I believe i found my issue when pushing clutch in wanting to die sometimes sooo my question is this savable or no?? Im on a budget and freaking junk yards here in ky wanting 600 and up for an almost 200 d16 any series v tech or non v tech prefer to keep the y8 always had a soft spot for them.
 

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For the damage you have, the first thing that stood out to me was the scoring of the thrust bearing block surface. I don't know if the thrust bearing surface can be fixed to accept new thrust washers or if they even have aftermarket thicker thrust bearings that could be installed in a newly machined area.

In my opinion just from seeing that, I doubt you would find someone who could repair that in a cost effective manner. Along side that, consider the other items needed to get the engine back right:

-Crank kit with oversize bearings will run you $200 give or take $50 from a local parts store or ebay.

-The Y8 head will be had for $300 give or take $50 on ebay/local classified listings.

-You will definitely want a new oil pump ($70ish).

-Oil cooler (Usually not flushable, $50 if equipped)

-Piston rings ($30ish)

-Machine shop to hone cylinders ($20ish per cylinder, depending on how well you know the guy, could be a case of beer)

-VTEC solenoid mounting gaskets ($20, has small screen in it)

-Cleaning all the rest of the parts you feel are salvageable removed and cleaned very well for metal contamination (personal time/labor) as well as inspecting for piston pin to piston clearance for excessive movement, it may need pistons.

Looking at the low end of things and considering all of the "worst case" scenarios, the whole engine price you got from the scrap yard starts to make sense. At least you have (at most yards) a 30 day warranty and a "run" guarantee, which would be a much better starting point for turbocharging than the damaged parts you currently have.

If it was me, I would rather start from something I knew was in fair but used condition rather than catastrophically damaged. Not to say it can't be fixed (within reason), but it does seem much less laborious to just grab a used engine at this point.
 
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