Honda D Series Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took a wire and peeled the insulation off, took about 3 strands twisted them and stuck it into the middle red wire post on harness and plugged it in slowly until I got a reading on my meter,
Key on , I’m getting .06xx , ( my 2 codes I’m throwing are P0122 , secondary code is p1508 )
The way I can get the .45/.5 for the plate closed voltage is to open it about 1/8 inch. I just bought the car and it idles between 1100-1600 just depends on the day and it idles at 1050 with ac on.
Now the guy who owned it before me put a new TPS but it bogs down with load between 1500 and 3200ish

if anyone wants to brain storm with me on the high idle I’d be happy because I have a new tps, plugs, wires , cap , rotor , igniter, TB gasket , IM gasket on the way.

I don’t want to mention too much about my motor because then people will get side tracked telling me it won’t work but it’s a P2J-5 Y8 head on a d15b block running a P2P ecu with working vtec and no other codes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
timing? vacuum leaks?
No Vacuum leak , checked that with starting fluid, now timing is a different story because I have no idea. I was going to replace all those gaskets and check to see if I have the intake manifold that had the air injection ports and plug those if I need too. And while I have the IM off I was going to clean the IACV , if non of that fix the bog and high idle I was going to buy a AEM cam gear for the y8 head and new Gates 104 tooth blue belt and have my friend set timing. I do think it’s out of time though because the distributor is clocked all the way to front.
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
5,893 Posts
sounds like the timing is fubard
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
5,893 Posts
hahahaha, nah, the timing has nothing to do with when the valves open and close, weather thats before or after the power stroke, that would be nuts.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,232 Posts
Verify timing first. For the most part, you will only need a 10mm wrench and some various 10mm sockets or various extensions.

Valvecover off, then the upper timing belt cover. All 10mm.

Then manually turn the engine over until the TDC red or white marking is shown on the crank pulley. Turn it COUNTER clockwise, the same direction these engines spin.

Then you simply look at the exposed camgear and see if it also indicates TDC via the "UP" marking, and the two side slash markings on the gear that indicate lined up with the head, where the valvecover touches it.


Unless the distributor is aftermarket, an OEM distributor should never need to be maxxed out in any direction if you are trying to run it as stock as possible.

While I say an OEM distributor SHOULD never have to be maxed, I have seen a couple, though that likely could have been aftermarket distirbutor with OEM guts swapped in (the housings do crack with slipped tools sometimes or overtightened bolts)

For now, I would highly recommend loosening the distributor, centering it, and seeing if it runs okay.

Check valve lash while the valvecover is off.

Check the camshaft itself for odd wear and tear, indicating oil starvation at some point in its life.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top