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i have a t25 internal wasgate turbo for my single cam v now where should the medium blue grade thread locker that i have should be applied to? to assure no vibration and for bolts getting loose on my setup meaning turbo down pipe ,t3 cast iron manifold to, custom welded flange to t25 internal waste-gate turbo

:dots: idk lmk turbo d-series owners I'm trying to do this right
 

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where should the medium blue grade thread locker that i have should be applied to?
The medium blue grade thread locker should applied be to the rod that goes through the centerline of the should turbo.
 

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ok sounds good so then example i have everything else from the manifold to the flange to turbo bolted on with lock tight bolts that tighten themselves u=i for got the name of them tho but thats what i have to hold them together it seems thier pretty strong
 

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ok so ill make it simple where should thread locker be put on the turbo to make sure the bolts dont come loose
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you right sir i know that but should i put it on all the bolts from the manifold to the turbo bc i have custom flange that i had to find bolts for if u get me now to connect both the turbo manifold and turbo
 

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^im going to throw a guess out there and say thread lock should go on the threads...
idk awebb help me out here if im wrong
You may very well be on to something there...

That never occured to me before. I always thought you'd just fill the center section with thread locker and wait a day or so.
 

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Thread lock on exhaust stuff will burn up the first time you start up your car. If you're having problems with bolts and nuts rattling loose you should look up nordlock washers, they wont be affected by heat like thread lock, spring washers, etc.

x2 look at the heat rating on the thread lock before buying. But it would go on the threads of all bolts
I used the red high temp thread lock on my turbo--> manifold bolts.

It worked like a charm and didnt melt off.
got a part number and what is the heat rating for it?
 

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Why the hell would you want thread locker?

If anything you would want anti-seize, these engines dont seem to have the vibrational issues that lead to backing out nuts and studs, but even if you do have that issue, thread locker is not the way to fix it. Either locking hardware or wire is the proper way to do it.
 

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Why the hell would you want thread locker?

If anything you would want anti-seize, these engines dont seem to have the vibrational issues that lead to backing out nuts and studs, but even if you do have that issue, thread locker is not the way to fix it. Either locking hardware or wire is the proper way to do it.
X2! You shouldn't need any thread locker. I've never had an issue with bolts coming loose. I have had issues with them being seized though.
 

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You just use the blue thread locker on the shaft nut that holds the compressor. If this part of the turbo is not apart then you should not take it apart. No need to use the blue on the compressor side as the hot side will just cook it off
 

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I used the red high temp thread lock on my turbo--> manifold bolts.

It worked like a charm and didnt melt off.
+1 regular stuff didnt work for me till i discovered they make a high temp version.

As far as getting them seized in there I end up taking it apart for some reason or another from time to time anyways so they dont get the chance to sit in there for years and years to get seized in.
 

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DO NOT USE RED LOCKER ON THE COMPRESSOR NUT!!! Only use blue. It is very easy to over heat the nut and actually warp the shaft. They have got to run perfectly true. They can not be off even .0005" or 1/8th the thickness of a sheet of printer paper.

I have been rebuilding turbos for some time. I have yet to see any bolts that have been properly tightened back out. None of the rebuild specs require or suggest using the thread locker except using the blue on the turbine shaft nut (Holset you are not supposed to do this with).
 

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Use nuts that have a shoulder and ridges on the contact side. That is one type of lock nut. The other kind will look similar to the ones that hold the oil pick up tube on, and will have a triangular shape on the top side. The triangle is a squeeze piont. ALso the nuts that hold your exhaust mani on are a different style lock nut too. You need to get thread pitch and size and goole that stuff. Do not for any reason use aircraft nuts that have a nylon insert. Those will melt. Also if you use a grade 8 lock washer the heat will make it straight like a regular washer. You could drill holes in all of them and use some type of small nail, put it in and bend it over.
 
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