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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so i know yall are prolly getting tired of my constantly changing engine plans, but this is wat i believe to be my final list. short and simple. just seeking a full list of things.

d16 block (filled/bored 75.5mm/honed/notched)
d17 crank (micropolished/oem bearings/lightweight flywheel)
d17 rods (arp bolts)
pms pistons (oem wrist pins/rings)
z6 gaskets (bore matched/port matched)
z6 head (port&polished/oem cam/Ti valve train/3 angle valve job)
z6 intake manifold (port matched/polished)
b18 throttle body (60mm/hone)
CAI (pvc piping/gsr intake box/k&n filter/3"hard tube)
simple exhaust (4-2-1 header/HFC/2" resonator/2" muffler/side exit)
new oem dizzy
new ngk wires/plugs
new water pump
new alternator
new fuel pump/filter/injectors
new oil pump/filter

this ends up with a piston-to-deck clearance of 0.031
a displacement of 1690.5cc
a rod stroke ratio of 1.42
and a compression ratio of 12.03:1

i'm not quite sure about the ECU yet, but it will definately be tunable. i think this is everything for the build. this is just the engine tho. so yea. if there's anything yall see missing let me kno and we'll discuss it.

this will be mated to a modified Si tranny for autocross and DD with HF 4th and 5th for highway.

thanks in advance,

Steven Folchi
 

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Ditch the MSD BS for a stock cap and wires. There more than enough for what your doing.
 

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i agree with ditching the msd crap. and why would u fill the block? that completly pointless. never gonna get anywhere even close hp wise for that to be necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
dizzy changed.

the filling of the block is simply for a rienforcement. i kno they say that the sleeves dont start moving till 15psi over stock, but just call me a worrier. i'd rather have done it for $50 then not done it. if that makes any sense. i kno i can be overly worried.

what exactly is SM? i kno it's an autox class but i couldnt find it on my brief google visit. wat kinda cars will that be against?

Steven Folchi
 

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15 psi? i dont know where u are hearing that. the cylinders dont start moving till about 400-450 hp. psi means nothing. i wouldnt wantt o take the chances of cooling issues with a filled block espicially when it is 100% un necessary. not even a slight chance of moving with your build unless some major shit goes wrong. then sleeves will be the least of your worries.
 

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honda del sol
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dizzy changed.

the filling of the block is simply for a rienforcement. i kno they say that the sleeves dont start moving till 15psi over stock, but just call me a worrier. i'd rather have done it for $50 then not done it. if that makes any sense. i kno i can be overly worried.

what exactly is SM? i kno it's an autox class but i couldnt find it on my brief google visit. wat kinda cars will that be against?

Steven Folchi
SM= Street Modified

lotus, twin turbo rx-7's, boosted miata's, high dollar and high horsepower cars.

whoops the ones above are in the 2 seater class, SM2. but still any highly modified high hp car that is not considered a 2+2 vehicle. like eg. 240sx
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i actually heard of that 15psi on this board iirc. i was gonna go the same route as the one on this page and he claims to not ahve any cooling problems. and no one has posted anything on the contrary.

and damn. idt i'd be put in a class with cars like that. but w/e. i'm just building this to have fun with really. i dont plan to be the best, just be competitive and have fun. and i believe this will do that for me.

also, just thought of this. is it a necessity to notch the block? i dont have a d17 and d16 block to compare. well w/e. i'll figure it out eventually. while i'm building it.
 

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89 rex
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im not shooting you down i love this stuff and poeple who do wierd things but,
ive built a d16 with a d17 crank a long time ago you have to do some thing to the crank i forget what it was something with the crank snout. also your d17 rods are the same as d16 rods just there thinner so they break easier so your better with tuner toys or something. there only like 200 bucks and ive seen poeple push 500hp with them. i dont know what compression calculator you were useing cause your displacement is wrong and your compression you should have something like 11.5/1 also displacement would be about 1660 or so. d17 parts you cant be below 1600cc. im seriously not trying to pop your baloon but if your autocrossing you dont want to stroke your motor (well enless its fitted to your driving style) you loose your rpm range, also your powerband will be much lower so its gonna be harder to toss your car and better suited for a burnout machine, and youll loose your motor longevity due to rod stroke ratio are worse, not only that youll have to run unlimited class with those motifications. and if if your not experienced at autocross first thing you learn is "slower is faster" but ricky bobby like to go fast i personally am a all motor guy but it would be cheaper to just put vitara pistons and tuner toy rods in a stock d16 and a turbo youll make your power and be super reliable and ive seen 400hp on that setup (just rods and pistons and turbo) reliably probally be cheaper enless you own your own machine shop
 

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Discussion Starter #12
dang idk how i over looked that displacement. i was off by like 100cc. and like i said i just wanna have fun with this car. i used zealautowerks and was told that it was the best. make sure to adjust the bore on the block and on the head gasket.

Steven Folchi
 

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whatever runs....
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have you researched the expense of extrude honing?lol It is VERY expensive, especially if you are just building this engine 'for fun'. I'd recommend sending your head to exospeed for port work/springs/retainers/valves...Talk to Wil, he will be more than happy to answer any questions you have and walk you through your build to guide you in the direction you wanna go. His webpage is on this site, check it out. I just got my head back from him, there's some pics of it in my build thread 'beater90's all motor build' My build will easily reach 140whp, which is more than enough 'just for fun'
 

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Discussion Starter #15
gahasgoreioqrbnagaag*$%*^&%^^*$^

$618 for extrude honing simply the HEAD. wtf? i was told that it wasnt that expensive. so i'm never gonna rely on info from some ppl anymore. anyways...

forget that then. normal p&p then. i cant freaking believe that tho. that's like $400 off from wat he told me. w/e... moving on.

thanks for pointing that out beater90.

apex... thanks for the encouragement and general comraderism. (i think that's a word). either way thanks for it.

Steven Folchi
 

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whatever runs....
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believe me, I looked into extrude honing myself, and if I was building an all out drag motor, I think it would be the way to go, because there are limits to what you can do as far as p n p, but extrude hone can get places no other way can, plus it takes away material in a way that the natural flow of air/fuel would want. But the price is no joke, by the time you get the intake and exhaust side honed, then you port match your intake manifold to your head with extrude honing, then your header as well, you've spent a couple grand. I think you would only see true results from this process if you were running a big ass turbo with at least 20 psi....lol
like I said earlier, a stage3 head from exospeed, decent compression, good cam/IM, and good tuning, Wil can get you that 140 whp b16 eater killa d series you are craving...lol
 
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