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Things NO ONE told me about installing a TURBO

These are things NO ONE ever told me about getting/installing a turbo. Now that I have boosted my 93 civic eg6, D15B7 these things are SO obvious, but when I didn’t know about it, I was all over the internet looking for answers. I found a lot of help here in the forums. I figure I gather up all the little/obvious things NO ONE ever told me, so I can help someone else as well. Human nature is to be helpful. So here it goes in no particular order.


YOU NEED TO CLOCK YOUR TURBO HOUSING FOR PROPER INSTALL
- Yeah I didn’t know that! It so obvious to me know and to a lot of people reading this, but there are a lot of people who do not know this and I was one of them! I was cooking my turbo in oil like french fries @ Burger King!. You just have to loosen up the housing so you can have your oil feed line at 12o clock and your oil return line at 6 o clock. Mine was at 9 and 3 o clock, (thanks to this guy know help me install my turbo and ‘knew all about turbos’). The oil is suppose to just “pass by and say hello” to the turbo not sit there for it to cook like fries in an oil pan. I did not know that. :clap:

YOU NEED TO HAVE 2 STEP COLDER SPARK PLUGS (NGK BKR7E)
- The reason is pretty much to prevent denotation aka blow up you engine aka say bye bye to your car. What is 2 step colder spark plugs? Is just spark plugs that are on a different heat range so your car doesn’t run so hot! It will run cooler like a glass with ice water (aaah). To step down on plugs just look at the NGK number. Just add the number UP so you can have a colder plug (excuse me?). For instance my civic oem spark plug is a ZFR5F-11.
So I just add the 5+1 = 6 (tomorrow we’ll do colors) so My one step colder plug is ZFR6F-11. Easy right. My 2 step colder plug will be 5+2=7 which will be?? …very good !!…ZFR7F-11. But guess what? There’s no such thing as ZFR7F-11 !! NICE!! :lurk:
Now what? Simple just get this NGK spark plug… BKR7E . This is the official 2 step colder spark plug for a civic turbo!!! Thanks for telling me !!. I did not know that!. And another thing…NGK –11 just means is pre gap to .44 so do not get BKR7E-11 , just get regular BKR7E. And don’t worry about the gap? OMG the gap! How much .28 .30 .32 .44 .99. The smaller the better, but don’t stress it .32 -.35 is ok. Just get this NGK spark BKR7E.


HOW TO CONNECT YOUR OIL FEED LINE (USE 2 LINES INSTEAD OF ONE)
- Your oil feed line in general goes from the little hole where the oil sensor pressure is, to your turbo. You just use a T so you can T off from the motor and split it one for the OEM oil sensor and one for your turbo oil feed line. But guess what?? DO NOT T OFF RIGHT FROM THE MOTOR. WHY? Because the T will break off (because is too heavy) and you will be stuck with a broken T fitting inside your motor! Wanna fix that! I don’t think so. Soooo, all you gotta do is get TWO oil feed lines.(lets say to 2 feet each) One goes from the motor, THEN yout T it off there, you but your Oil pressure sensor and then you continue with the other oil feed line to the turbo. This way the weight of the T fitting is OFF the motor and just dangling between the two oil feed lines. If it breaks you just have to replace the oil feed line which is like $10 on ebay. And It will be most likely on the top part of the engine bay for easy access (not behind the motor where you can’t even see it) :clap:


MAKE SURE YOU SUPER DUPER TIGHT ALL YOUR CLAMPS
- When installing your intercooler and all those pipes that go from the turbo all the way back up to your throttle body, make sure you SUPER DUPER tighten up your clamps. WHY? Because you want to make sure you do not have any Boost leaks! What is that? That just means you do not want air escaping through the rubber couplers that you use to connect the pipes together. That’s all. Just tighten them up, after you finish. Eat a sandwich, then go back and tighten some more, then talk on the cell phone, then tighten up some more. The reason why, if you later have any issues with your car stalling, or not boosting right or not running right or whatever, you will now in your conscious that it’s definitely not a boost leak from the piping because you remember tighten then up , eating a sandwich and tighten them up some more, and talking on your cell, and tighten them some more! That will alleviate any further issues when trouble shooting your car, You don’t want to have to take off the bumper AGAIN to retighten a coupler (loser).


WHICH 3 GAUGES DO I REALLY NEED(BOOST, OIL PRESSURE, AIR TO FUEL)
I spend a whole day looking for this. Well I summarized it for you. To look cool with your 3 gauge pilar, you need the following

-Boost gauge that way you know, when you are boosting, how much you are boosting and when you are vacuuming aka driving normal like a N/A car. ($20 dollar one is fine)

-Oil pressure sensor, so you have peace of mind that you still have oil in your engine while driving. Because with a turbo car, you can have little leaking now from the oil pan, from the turbo, from the oil feed line, from your glove compartment from your stereo, from anywhere. So this will let you know you if you still have oil in your motor and your safe and sound. By the way there are two types of oil pressure sensors, mechanical and electrical! Which one? Easy! Electrical. It comes with a sensor you just connect to your oil feed line and run the little wire to your gauge. The mechanical one is a tube that literally runs the oil to your gauge so it can measure the oil pressure! You don’t want hot oil running back and forth 2 feet from your face! ($20-30 dollar one is fine)

-Air fuel ratio gauge (no one told me about this one, thanks!) This one is like the important one. It basically lest you know if you are running lean (very bad) or rich (very good). Remember You always want to be rich not poor. Rich, Rich. Lean = denotation aka bye bye car aka your car is hot aka it’s gonna through a fit aka is gonna die. Rich is what you wanna be in the turbo world and in life in general. Rich = running cool (aaahh), running smooth, running good, aka your car feels like frosted flakes! (Grrrreat)
With this gauge you can always make sure when you are racing or running your car hard it does not go on the lean side 16+ on the gauge, you always want to stay 15 and less, 14, 13, 12 11, get it? Less = Rich (excuse me!) With this gauge you can always make sure the tune that you got, is okay. With this gauge you can tune your car (duh), or better yet your tuner can tune your car. It basically connects to your exhaust (it has an o2 sensor). So you gonna need to drill a hole on your exhaust to plug it in, or get a test pipe form eBay that cost $20 and you can connect it to that (it already comes with a hole for the o2 sensor)
Get the AEM WIDEBAND Air/fuel gauge is like $125.


WHICH MOTOR OIL FOR TURBO (10W-30)
- I used to use 5W-30 on my NA D15B7, Now I have to use 10W-30. Why? Because is thicker and thicker is better. That way the oil does not heat up so fast. And remember your car wants to be cool like a glass of ice water (aaah!).That’s the short answer. The long answer you can google it.


FUEL INJECTORS (MIN. 400cc)
- I though I was able to use the OEM fuel injectors (240cc), NOT! Thanks for telling me! The reason why is this. You can use your OEM (240cc) injectors BUT they will be always running HARD. Like spraying at it’s most capacity. So if you do not that constantly they can break and damage. It’s like a skinny buddy of yours helps you move out. He can help you take out the refrigerator alright. But he is going to work hard, sweat and stress out. But if you get a tough big buddy of yours, he’ll do it, but it will be so much easier for him and wont get stress. So you want your fuel injectors to run nice and cool and not stressed out all the time. Bigger guy for a bigger job, get it?
Any brand 400cc minimum.


ECU/TUNED (GET BOTH)
- You need a ‘chipped’ ECU and get the car ‘tuned’. Chipped ECU is so you can be able to run programs like Crome or Hondata or whatever to ‘tune’ (program your car) to run right. Now you also need to tune it. This issue is a biggie. You have to tune it or your car might die aka run lean aka it will get hot and die. Soooo, you have to get it tuned.
Street tuned? Dyno Tuned? Looney Tunes? Which one? Is up to you, but Street tune is like $200-300 and a guy drives with you around the streets with a laptop. A dyno tune is $400-$600 and they do it on the machine. BUT I did something that maybe not a lot of people will do. I bought a chipped ECU from Ebay and the guy tunes it for you for FREE!. I was skeptical at first, but I went for it, and you know what? It worked and my car runs normal. Look for DIYTUNING702 on Ebay. He asked me all my specs of my car and some how ‘tuned’ my ECU for my car. I guess is like a save/conservative tune. But is still a tune. My car runs normal, and it boosts normal. Everything works. Maybe is not tuned for ULTIMATE POWER for racing at every traffic light, but you know what. Is reliable, it drives normal, it works with my boosted car and I need the car to go to work. I just wanted it tuned to run right and not blow up. So it worked for me. I recommend him! DIYTUNING702 :lurk:


IF YOUR CAR IDLES LOW OR STALLS RIGHT OUT AFTER TURBO INSTALL
-First thing is first, let your ECU ‘learn’ how to idle with your colder plugs. Let it idle for like 10 minutes. Turn it OFF, turn it back on , press the gas and let it idle at 1k for like 2-3 minutes, then let off slowly until it idles by itself. Let it idle for 5 minutes. Then drive it around. It the Idle is too low, just adjusted it with the idle screw counterclockwise (if it’s too low), clockwise (it it’s to high)


SUMMARY
- Hope I helped out someone one in here. :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sentry, I know it's elementary, that's why I put it. Because you once had a first post and someone here will finally put their turbo for once, the first time. First time questions for first time people. Ok Mr expert 1,000+ posts. :clap:
 

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98 Civic Ex d16y8
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I like that you've shared your experiences. I kinda like this post. I think it will help noobs to the turbo game (like myself, although I knew most of this) I know a lot of guys who don't. I'm gonna have my buddies read this that are talkin about getting into the game. If ya added pics itd make this post that much better. These other guys are veterans and are probably numb to seeing posts like this, which is understandable.....but as a noob to dseries.org, I will say that your sarcasm will only earn you enemies here. These guys know their shit, and you are going to be asking for their help at some point.
 

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Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI hb
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well thanks for taking the time to type all that, and your right there are alot of people coming here and asking simpler questions then you have covered, granted this is all very basic and after your first even na build you should know all these things, but there are people just starting out and this may be their first thread they read in witch case it will be help full, also there are a lot of WAY more useless threads on this site so, your up in my books.

i also like the way you wrote it, i may not agree with everything you say but you speak from your experience on the subject and what you believe to be true and not just say the generic definition for the subject. it may get people thinking a bit more or about it differently and in the end help them more once they look into what you have said a little more
 

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I just read the first half of the post and already learned a lot. I have zero experience with turbos, though. I did try to look into it a few years ago, but most everything I read about turboing a civic seemed to assume you already knew a lot.
 

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ADD PICS. Like I said, im curious on the 2 line oil feed set-up.
That's the one thing I was going to do on my Turbo setup. I had a 20" line to run to the firewall I was adding a tee too so my sending unit for the oil gauge would clear.
 

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95 ej2
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Everybody has to start off somewhere?? Good info OP the thing about a build is its all the little things that you dont remember no matter what your skill level is really. I had A hard time, gettin to know all the little stuff about turbos. You may know a thing or two about cars but turbo cars are a new entry point
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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Eh, you can't knock the guy for trying to spread what he learned. Sometimes the basics are spread out across many threads and I think things like this can really help someone get into the learning phase. I don't know jack shit about turbos because I don't run one nor do I plan to. I can say though, that to have shit laid out like this makes the learning process simpler. Nothing sucks worse than thinking you've got all the bases covered only to be stuck with your pants down midway through a project with a question...then you rush to DSO on your phone saying ERRMAGHERRD I NEED HELP.

Thanks for the contribution man
 

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98 Civic Ex d16y8
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That's the one thing I was going to do on my Turbo setup. I had a 20" line to run to the firewall I was adding a tee too so my sending unit for the oil gauge would clear.
Im about 90% sure im going to run my GE sandwich plate for the oil feed. It was one of the first things I bought when I started my build. Im going to go look up recent reviews to see how it stood up over time.
 

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errr.. after reading the rest of it, I'm not so sure about the tuning advise it contains. On the whole, there's some useful things written, but this is certainly no expert guide.
 

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also you may want to add you probably fucked up your block by using ebay feed lines...the stock oil pressure port is 1/8th bsnt....not the standard 1/8npt ...so it will leak and pull out the threads. you can order up custom feed lines however and running a 12" line to a firewall mounted tee is better and less chance of breakage that happens with cheap ebay tee fittings...
 

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98 Civic Ex d16y8
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Yea...I just read the tuning part. OP you do know that when someone sends you a tune on an ecu its just a basemap tune, right? correct me if im wrong but you cant just get a tune from a random person over the internet and your car is good to go to the track and rip up the streets. I thought tunes like that were just to get you to an actual tuner to fine tune everything....correct me if im wrong though. But you better be careful if joe schmo sent you a tune on an ecu and you've been running it thinking youre good to go...

also you may want to add you probably fucked up your block by using ebay feed lines...the stock oil pressure port is 1/8th bsnt....not the standard 1/8npt ...so it will leak and pull out the threads. you can order up custom feed lines however and running a 12" line to a firewall mounted tee is better and less chance of breakage that happens with cheap ebay tee fittings...
Just read this exact thing happening to a guy like 2 days ago. Blamed it on ebay.
 

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96 ej8
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Idk if you guys read it completely but the fguy knows that its not getting all the power that it has to offer. He uses it to and from work and according to him it's running fine, since he has a wideband I'mhoping he psays attention to it if he ever decides to do a pull
 
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