Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The majority of us know about the god damn bitch pin when working with the linkage for our cars.

I had generally always reused the pins, but a friend of mine recommended just using a bolt instead of the pin. Anybody ever use a bolt instead of the bitch pin? Would there be more play in the shifter after using a bolt, instead of the pin?
 

·
Classic Man
Civic
Joined
·
16,355 Posts
The pin acts like a spring, so its eliminates any play.

With that said, an M8 bolt fits very nicely in there. Double nut it and do it up very tight and you shouldnt have any play and shouldnt need to worry about it falling out.

With that said the boot and retainer clip wont fit over a bolt.
 

·
Brokedick Millionaire
Joined
·
40,661 Posts
Using a bolt = sloppy shift linkage unless you modify it to clamp on to the shift shaft. Example of the setup I use for bench shifting transmissions I build. Credit to Lee Grimes of KONI for the original idea.

 

·
Registered
97 honda coupe
Joined
·
7,611 Posts
transmission case bolts are the perfect size/length, roll pins are my bitch with an air hammer attachment.
 

·
Brokedick Millionaire
Joined
·
40,661 Posts
transmission case bolts are the perfect size/length, roll pins are my bitch with an air hammer attachment.
Old nut from the header to cat connection as well/
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
5,019 Posts
a/c bolts too
 

·
Premium Member
90 crx si/96 accord
Joined
·
788 Posts
I personally use a long standard thread, 1/4-20? 5/16? One that isn't threaded the entire length, so the unthreaded section fits pretty snug through the holes, one regular nut, then a nylon inserted nut for extra piece of mind, absolutely no complaints here.

Edit, I see what bone did there....I forsee that modification in my future
 

·
Registered
Love the Civic
Joined
·
1,817 Posts
The bitch pin aint a bitch if you use ingenuity to remove and replace. Personally at work every machine of a said type I build has a roll pin through an aluminum pulley and hardened steal shaft, giggity. It has taught me straight shots are better then hard ones, giggity.

I use a long file with the plastic handle removed, I put the handle side on the pin and hit the top of the file. It helps get down the rear case and allows you to get a solid strike with out smashing into said case. I sat and stared at my trans for an hour sweating and swearing before that came to me....I'm dense.

Of course if you are removing while in the car, you are being silly.
 

·
Brokedick Millionaire
Joined
·
40,661 Posts
BRAAAPP....ding ding ding....play find the pin.

Modified pin punch for air chisel to remove the bitch pin. Has only failed ONCE!

 

·
Tape-R taper/driver
EC3, ED8, ED9, EE5
Joined
·
574 Posts
I have a punch that I use, most are out in less than 3 hits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
8mm punch has always worked for me
 

·
Registered
ej8
Joined
·
6,367 Posts
I cut the pin down a bit so took off about 10% of the top.
Doing this lets the pin sit in more. Then it very easy to just take a punch and put it into the hole and 2 hits and it out.
Putting it back in i just use a rubber mallet and hit it in, then use the punch to make sure it recessed into the hole
 

·
B-series Destroyer
4g 4d civic
Joined
·
913 Posts
I used a bolt with 2 nuts the last time I did mine.
 

·
Asshole
Joined
·
4,112 Posts
Am I the only person who uses a Philips screwdriver to remove it?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Whoshot

·
Classic Man
Civic
Joined
·
16,355 Posts
I always default to a 7mm hex bit on an extension that I sacrifice to become deformed from hammering. Hehe.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top