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With 200whp coming from a hmt on a jdm d15 and everything else dx, what can i expect to break? For instance, how much hp and torque can d series axles take what about tranny's? Any other parts that are at high risk of breaking when having 200whp?

The fact that d-series cars were never designed with performance in mind makes me wonder how well they can handle having their hp over doubled...
 

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My vote would be : rods

I have often heard the D16Z6 can handle 200 whp as a daily with no problems
(with a good tune of course)
But I am not sure on the D15
 

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the rods will be the first to go, i doubt the axels would break at 200.
i remember when SKUNK broke one of their racing axels on their drag car, they didnt have any other axels laying around and had to run again. So they just pulled an axel from one of the teams teg's :TU:
 

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just stock stuff...I'd say rods(even though there's tons of people making that kind of power on stock rods...I wouldn't chance it. D-series rods are like toothpicks), the clutch might burn up pretty quick, might want to upgrade the valvetrain but it should hold alright as long as you're using the stock cam, and to prevent the head from lifting from the extra pressure you might wanna throw in some ARP head studs and change the headgasket (always use OEM hg's). Besides that, I would think everything should be just fine with a good tune. Can anyone think of anything else?
 

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Minglor said:
My vote would be : rods

I have often heard the D16Z6 can handle 200 whp as a daily with no problems
(with a good tune of course)
But I am not sure on the D15
I agree with ya bro...
 

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someone please give me a good reason to have to uprgade anything other than enigne management, injectors, and fuel pump.
put together a decent kit or buy a pre-fabbed one it's up to you for power goals.
ARPs are a must, and damn cheap insurance. a low mileage block should be fine for turbocharging. find yourself a good tuner and you will be more than fine. :beer:
 

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NastyHabitzCRX said:
someone please give me a good reason to have to uprgade anything other than enigne management, injectors, and fuel pump.
put together a decent kit or buy a pre-fabbed one it's up to you for power goals.
ARPs are a must, and damn cheap insurance. a low mileage block should be fine for turbocharging. find yourself a good tuner and you will be more than fine. :beer:
why are ARP's a must??? not mocking or anything, but that wasnt even on my turbo list until I rebuild the block.... Im only gonna be running 6-8lbs on chrome.....
 

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MyblkVTEC said:
why are ARP's a must??? not mocking or anything, but that wasnt even on my turbo list until I rebuild the block.... Im only gonna be running 6-8lbs on chrome.....
i understand where you're coming from. you can't see any benefit from them HP or overall performance wise.
they are a deterrent to allowing the HG (notoriously the weak point), to blow under boost. :beer:
 

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inspector01 said:
They help prevent headlift from the boost....i don't consider them mandatory, but they are very good insurance, especially if you are gonna change the headgasket or something before you boost.
yeah I plan on changing my water pump and timing belt again after the turbo, just o be safe while I save for internals and the full rebuild....
 

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NastyHabitzCRX said:
i understand where you're coming from. you can't see any benefit from them HP or overall performance wise.
they are a deterrent to allowing the HG (notoriously the weak point), to blow under boost. :beer:
thanks bro, at such low boost levels like Ill be starting at, I think ill be ok, but I will be buying them in the near future for sure! :TU:
 

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MyblkVTEC said:
why are ARP's a must??? not mocking or anything, but that wasnt even on my turbo list until I rebuild the block.... Im only gonna be running 6-8lbs on chrome.....
I'm not mocking... but dude before you start looking at using Crome for a fuel mangement, please learn how to spell it correctly first.
 

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evosol said:
I'm not mocking... but dude before you start looking at using Crome for a fuel mangement, please learn how to spell it correctly first.
no I know, I just didnt want to sound like a smartass, I wasnt even directing you...
 

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NastyHabitzCRX said:
someone please give me a good reason to have to uprgade anything other than enigne management, injectors, and fuel pump.
:beer:
if you tune your engine right you will not have any problems, and you will not break anything unless you do something stupid
the only way you will break axls' is if you are running slicks, trust me i try it everyday. :)
 

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You should be more than alright without head studs at 8 PSI. Headlift is a big problem when you are running agressive timing and fuel maps. If you are willing to back the timing off and run a little on the rich side, you will have no problems at all. It will make less power but you should have much more reliablity. It's an alright compromise for me at the moment. I've been beating the hell out of my 300,000KM D16Z6 for 2 months now and it's still doing alright. I can't believe it has lasted this long on 8 PSI considering how worn out it is.
 

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evosol said:
First thing to go on any honda are ring lands.
says you, im more scared of throwing a rod, with how much stress they are seeing now. :beer:
 
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