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Discussion Starter #1
Well before I start, I wanted to state that I just got my first car (a eg hatch) about a month ago and my timing belt lost teeth which killed my b18b. I looked all over for a new b16 or Gsr but the ones that seemed the most reliable cost over 2000$. I'm a high school student with not a lot of money as I'm sure a lot of people face the financial issues that I have on here. Luckily my friend did his type r swap and had a d16y8 laying around. It makes the same power as my b18b (about 130 but if I'm wrong please correct me) and it has vtec which my old motor never had. I'm really excited to start my single cam build, ordered a password jdm intake, had my ecu chipped, and ordered a bisimoto header. I can't wait to face trial and error and see what I can do with my underdog swap.

Anyways, I'm pretty much a virgin on all this stuff but ive set a goal. I want to make 200-250hp. Of course I want it all to be safe and last me for years to come. I really want to make this power with an all motor set up but I've read around here on the forums and most people I see make about 160hp with all motor. The only option it seems for me is a boosted set up. If you think I can make my horsepower goal with all motor then please show me the way. But if it's turbo, I would like to know how to work this out with the most safest build possible. I heard that it was easy making over 300hp with a turbo set up! Please show me legit parts, I'm really scared of eBay parts.

So if you have any advice please let me know. Heck if you have a dream engine build, list your dream parts below so I can get a better idea. Please let me know all the parts I will need and if there a cool shop in southern Cali for any help I need. Thanks!!
 

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the first trial and error is going to be the bisi header. you will break it and have to fix it. its inevitable.
id personally rather have a non-vtec or a vtec any day of the week

go to honda-tech and read the sohc thread tons of setups there that are useful to learn about. lots of info on here also. search and repeat.

ebay sells some of the top brands out there nothing wrong with ebay parts lol.
 

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d16y8 makes about 125hp @ flywheel.
you lose hp through the drive train. SO that 125 will come down to like 98hp to the wheels.
Bolts ons header, intake,exhuast muffler will net you around 109whp.
Add cam , cam gear, pnp the head then your around 120whp
up the comp with high comp piston and you can get to that 16-whp NA all motor.

Now throw on a turbo kit and that 98whp can go to around 200whp break the block needs to be open up.

For you goal i would say turbo. So do some homework on what parts are needed and how much your trying to spend.
A small t25 turbo is good for your power and you get a fast spool.
A small t3 will be great also it will just spool a little later and use less psi.
Big t3 will get you to 300whp+ but spool around the 5k mark.

WEll i gave you a lil help so look around and you wasted money on header and intake if you had it in your head to go turbo.

**edit forgot you said your in Cali. You gotta get it brab/crab to pass emission and there is only 2kits to do that other then that your have to remove the kit to pass emission every 1 yrs.
 

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that bisi header costs an arm and a leg man and honestly ebay has some hit and miss stuff like my megan header, which is essentially a DC sports replica for $100. since ur like me in cali, nothing shiney ie. muffler or fart can (i got a fix it ticket for skunk2 megapower) and dont drive like an ass
 

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Ugh I can't imagine living in California, you guys have it rough.

Op, I have a great setup on the d16y8. I make 211whp on 7psi from a Garrett T3 60. I like xile6's build as well. The site sponsors are great, I've personally gotten products from Go-Autoworks. You will not be disappointed with anything you buy there.

It will be hard getting over 160whp NA. The stock block is good for about 225whp. Anything over that and I'd advise forged rods. The vitara piston/custom length rods will be enough to max out your sleeves (450whp or any facsimile thereof) and is a simple enough build.

Read the stickies and look at everyone's build!
 

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In my own opinion if u want a "safe" build. Forged rods are an absolute given. The rods are the weak part of the bottom end. I dont want to invest +/-$1500 only to break a rod within 5k miles because you wanted a short cut. Takes time to rebuild but you wont care in the end when u have a strong motor ready for miles and abuse and potential increase of power. Been there.. did the stock block.. ill never go un-forged again
 

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What about a supercharger? Are there any good kits out there?
Same thing its boost. Just driven different and imo comes second to turbo.
And only 1 i can think off. Jackson racing , kinda hard to find.
But still can make more then 200whp without rebuild the block to handle it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I just got my eg back and the single cam is great! I feel like it revs more freely than the my old dual cam. I don't feel worried revving it up to overtake someone on the freeway and it feels so lively when I tested it on a canyon run. My gas mileage is also improved, like a lot, no seriously...A LOT!!! I don't have the ecu chipped yet but I'm doing that soon. so far I am pleased. I have one little gripe however and that's with the tranny. The throws are soooo long and everytime I step on the gas, the gear stick moves forward then when I let off, it goes back normally. My b series had a great feel (other than my grinding second gear). But I'll let it go cause I'm pretty sure the single cams were built for efficiency and that's why the gearbox is so ehh.

Oh one other thing, my friend says he still has to chip the ecu so when i first start the car cold, the idle isnt steady. It goes up and down up and down but after I warm up the engine, it goes away (also my check engine light is on) he says I'll be fine it's just cause it doesn't have the ecu. I trust him that it will be okay after the ecu but is it okay if I drive it as it is? Thanks

SO PUMPED ABOUT MY SINGLE BUILD. My uncle is plating my valve cover in gold :)
 

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Cold start up n down idle is the "fast idle control vale"
Look it up.
But next time u cold start your car take off tge intake tube. Your see 2 holes top n bottom. Put ur finger on the bottom hole it should stop reving up n down.
If so fiacv (fast idle)
 

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If your shifter is moving like that then you should check your engine mounts. It also seems like you aren't happy with the gearing of the s40 transmission (from the d16y8 engine). Sadly, that is one of the shorter geared D transmissions. I have it and I think it's fine.
 
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