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Discussion Starter #1
I Started my d17y8 Stroker build today. I have had most the parts for a while now just no motivation to put something together seeing how my little d15y7 mini me has been doing so well for the past few years even boosted. The reason for this build is i need my turbo parts for my next build but also i just started a new job and its 50 miles one way to work and i just don't think a stock Honda with turbo and no oil cooler in fl is going to hold up for the long haul.

So now onto the build i choose the d17 stroker because i want the low end like a b18 or b20 to move my heavy 95 coupe ex and after having turbo for so long going back to n/a 1.5 is not a option lol. Goal for this build is to have it build ready to go in the car in 2 to 3 weeks for less then 250 buck & make at least 130hp but shooting for 140, on stock y8 cam. I also have some maybe new ideas and questions to run by everyone but will get to it later after I have done a little more searching.

The short block that I will be using is a d16a6 block with the steel main caps.
The block was rebuild in a friends p29 build but ended up cracking a ringland and he went B-series. It has a fresh hone and been deck but i don't know how much and new Main bearings. I have of course the d17 crank, rods & pistons, gear,rear main cover, and oil pump needed for this build. I also have arp rod bolts to add and going to get new set of d17 rod bearing and rings.

The y8 head I have has a fresh mill job to flatten it out and a supposed valve job but turn to crap so I'm going to have to hand lap them in myself. But before I do that I'm going to put a little porting time in on it nothing major just clean bowls and casting flash.

The goodies I have in stock for this build are a dc sports 4 2 1 header or the 4 into 1 header . That right i have both. I found them in the salvage yard for 15 bucks each. I also found a light weight steel fly wheel which i will be using with the clutch that in my car now a ACT HD pressure Plate and Action kevlar full face disk. The intake manifold will be a Sk2 with LS 60mm tb which is also on my car now. I hope with all this and a good tune I can hit my Hp goal.

This is what I did today I got the block put up on the stand and removed the main caps inspected the bearing cleaned the inside with brake clean Installed Crank with platic gauge to check my clearances. They were all at .00015 which I believe is good. I will check the rods when i get the new bearings for them and the arp bolts installed. After that i removed every thing and began notching the block for the rods to pass by. i also test fit a few other parts.

 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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there have been d17y8's built, the info is out there. doesn't mean people still don't want to see how YOU go about it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't want to come off rude I'm just not seeing as many people post about d-series stuff lately not even people saying "looks good" or "keep up the good work" there used to be hundreds of posts per day now there's like 10. I know about Danz d17y8 and the two other major theads about it I have Read them threw a few times. Only reason I'm attempting this build really.

I was thinking of swapping the pistons for the set of JDM d15b vtec pistons I have I couldn't find much info on that ever heard of any one doing this. Danz briefly touched this but most people just deck the block or head to get compression.
 

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My setup is rather simple. D17, crank, rods, and pistons in a y7 block, arp rod bolts, and a y8 head. I choice to leave the pistons .020 under the deck. I was going to boost the motor but ended up pulling it out. I can say it pulled a lot better then the stock z6, not sure what it was putting down as far as power.
 

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Cut the Deck until the pistons are flush with the top. Cut 0.031, I believe. Or even up to 0.038. 0.020 is the least P2H I can support. Y8 HG 0.027. I would buy some cheap oversize pistons and rebore so I could specify a 0.001 P2W that is straight and has nice ringseal. Cut the Head until desired compression is achieved. You dont know how nice it is to be able to do this trick. You cant do it with the KA, the tensioner runs out quickly. 12.5:1 SCR is about the limit on pump. Clean up the bowls, the pistons tops, anything that feels even the slightest bit raised or sharp, including letters, markings, valve reliefs that have sharp spots. This includes radiusing the quench pads by the valves, the shrouding around the valves, and the respective transitions on the face where they mill it. Try to round out the bowl perimeter lightly with sandpaper. The head diameter is not true 75mm dia like the bore and the HG, so there will be an overhang on the HG. Lay the HG on the head to see. You can remove it for additional det resistance. Port the head, lightly cam it. Valve job, and Exhaust valve guides. Lapping doesnt do shit. Almost makes it worse. Seals on the angle you are further reducing. Get a plain intake tube, a big ass filter and manifold. Edelbrock head flange sucks so badly, you have to machine it to get the nuts to sit flat, but the S2 manifold has an inferior design and the tube falls out. Pick your poison. Ebay header flows enough. Straight through muffled exhaust. ARP rod bolts and resize the big ends.

140... You need to aim your sights higher. You say 140, youll get 140. Say 160, and get 160. 100hp/L is like 100% of my goal for a purpose built NA engine. I think a lot of people here got bored, or stopped interacting because they figure it out and move onto other things. Honda is like the elementary of the car world. Great place to start, but not stay. DSO is like a club or a bar where people come to chat. Sometimes about D series. I guess you're a little late to the party, hell I was. The coolest thing will be if it's still running in a year or two.

Just about got done rebuilding this engine, 6AM, going to bed.
 

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I wouldnt. Spend a few bucks, get a je piston, 12:1, get a delta 272 and youll have an awesome set up.

Thats my 2 cents.

Either way good luck.

But i see a high come 1.6 bottom with a nice cam out hustling a d17 piston and crank/stock cam z6.

Stratton.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so while Im waiting on my next pay check to order the little bit of part I need I was wondering if any of you have seen a head come back from a know good machine shop bolt it on the car properly and have no or low compression & know full well its not the bottom end because you drove the car into the garage with leaky head gasket. That what happen with this head but after putting it on the car twice with different head gaskets using arp studs. The car wouldn't start do compression test and all low. I checked the valves and found them to not hold water (laquer thinner) like they were burned or bent.

Here is some pictures of the head with intake valves out, .


The combustion chamber


and A Valve


Do you think the old carbon sitting in the intake of my buddy old car could cause this if you look closely and see the little black dots that look like fleas its hard carbon kinda stuck to both the valve and the seat and i know the head was perfectly clean by the shop as he has done awesome work for me in the past. What do you think I should do ??
 

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Why would you buy an expensive forged NA piston, when stock pistons will work fine. He is not building a full race engine or spraying it.

Dude already said he was low budget, and couldn't even get a VJ done. ~10% loss

And then you top it off with the cheapest biggest piece of shit cam you can think of?

I noticed that the letters on the exhaust valve become hot spots for detonation events on the engine last night.

OP do you know English Grammar? Even a little? I thought my texts might be hard to read, but after trying to understand the last one, I just about give up. I gave you the answer you need. If you wanna fuck around in the mud, thats your call.
 

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Was the head sealing up before? When i send a head in they visually inspect it, also with a str8 edge. They usually make sure it seals to see if it needs a valve job. This is normal operation when I've sent one in for resurfacing.
 

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Why would you buy an expensive forged NA piston, when stock pistons will work fine. He is not building a full race engine or spraying it.

Dude already said he was low budget, and couldn't even get a VJ done. ~10% loss

And then you top it off with the cheapest biggest piece of shit cam you can think of?
He asked for advice i gave him some.

You dont agree. Advice wasnt directed towards you.

Why would some one add a piston, when a stock piston would work fine ? You seriously asking that ? A aftermarket forged piston vs a factory cast piston.....

Biggest piece of shit cam ? Ive seen a few dynos with those shitty cams making great power for a 1.6. Ive read postative reviews ?

Let me guess, you like tri flows 600 dollar cam yet your arguing that a cast factory piston is just fine for a stroker build.

Stratton.
 

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Yeah, I'm seriously asking that.

What conditions do you believe he will see that a cast piston will not survive? Vitaras are cast. They hold 700+, stock pistons usually do not fail. Our rods do. Vitaras sometimes break ringlands from detonation, and forged options are more resistant to this. You should not try to put up with more det, you should think of how you can avoid it.

I'm trying to think of an aftermarket cam manufacturer that has worse practices than Delta, and I can not think of any. They use old Ford 2 valve grinders and other ancient technologies. Inconsistent finish and hardness, admittedly copied profiles.

Sure a Tri Flow would be nice. $600 is about the cost of forged pistons. You shouldn't underestimate the complexity of our camshaft. It has 20 thin lobes. Most 4 cyl engines have only 16 or less. The thin lobe part is important because slow ramp rates should be maintained. High Pressure on the rocker/lobe. A good cam would show better gains, driveability, and reliability than forged pistons.

The Sweet Piston to run in here would be 13030-P08-010, but I dont know if you can find any.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/naturally-aspirated/17840-jdm-d15b-vtec-honda-part-numbers-official.html Or maybe other pistons with a ~27-28 mm comp height.

A middle ground alternative would be the 59300 ($274) or similar. You can run stock everything else in the head. Maybe get some nice new valves that are smooth. Spend the money on machine work, working the head, or replacing the valve guides, and other worn out items. Resize the rods. Like new Breather Box for the back. You can Jam/Thread a fitting in the back and run it to wherever, or stud the oil pan, lengthen the IM studs and run a thermal gasket, magnet plug. Spend time cleaning and deburing, making the headstuds sit perfectly level. Mounts, linkage, transmission. Etc.

This is an NA engine, its not about just buying parts. It is about skill and thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Toaster maybe I didn't explain it well above. The y8 head I posted in the pictures above already has almost 300 dollars in valve job and machine work. But when I bolted it on the car it would not make enough compression to run so I put the old head with a new gasket and fire up and ran fine no issues. So I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with it before I spend more money at the machine shop. I was kinda thinking of getting new valves anyway and just lapping them into the fresh cut seats.

Also I have a set of the pistons you mentioned above that came out of a running motor they have p08 stamped on the side that why I ask about them above as well.

I know n/a is more sensitive to change then turbo in order to achieve more power. That why I want to do some of the simple things first that just take a little time and little or no money.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Here is a comparison between the jdm d15b vtec rod and piston next to a plm d17 piston


As you see the jdm is just a tiny bit higher. I'm a little worried about the longer skirt contact in the rod or bottoming our in the block where the sleeve ends. One up side is It also has valve reliefs unlike the d17 piston so may be able to run a little bigger cam if I wanted to.
 
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