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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I rolled the new hatch off the flatbed and into the garage the other day, and decided I should take a look at it today since I had a couple of hours before going on duty.

The interior is a shit can... it's complete and unpainted, but that is where the good stops. Someone swapped leather integra front and rear seats into it. The fronts are torn and beat to shit, and the rears look like hell because they don't fit properly. I will never understand swapping teg rear seats into a hatch. :roll:

Oh well, it could be worse.

On to the exterior... it's a 10 footer.
I was blue, and was resprayed a different shade of that blue, or perhaps that darker blue they used on the Acuras (not relivant really). The sheet metal is straight and there is no rot on the rear quarters. The front passanger fender has a spot of rust, but those are cheap to replace. The hood is CF (a cheap ill fitting hood), and it has a CF Mugen knockoff lip. The paint on the roof is faded and pretty well fucked.

My favorite bit on the exterior is the windshield. It's cracked but must have been replaced once before becuase the trim is missing from the passange side, but when it was there (I assume after the first replacement windshild) it was installed by squirting black window goo into the channel and then slapping that bitch on there. Who needs clips? I will take a pic of this tomorrow, it is truely ammusing.

Suspension and tires you ask? The car rolls on some ugly 16" ADR's with dry rotted 205/40 16's. :greddy2:
The suspension is Skunk2 Pro-S 2. Sweet mother of pearl it's like a brick.

Now to the meat and potatoes.
Under that cheap ass CF hood is an OBD1 ZC swap. The swap appears to have been done correctly, but I wouldn't go so far as to say it was done right.
I fired it up, and it runs in limp mode (running on a P06). It currently throws a code 9 and 10. The IAT is hooked up correctly so I assume it just needs to be replaced. The cylinder position sensor on the other hand is an issue.

So I pulled the plugs and wires to start with a compression test just to see if it was worth diving any deaper into other issues. The engine tests with numbers between 160 and 170 across all 4. Better than bad me thinks.

After that I pulled the distributor to find that it was giving the pick ups in it a nice oil bath. I pulled everything out of it and cleaned the shaft, pick ups, and everything else that was covered in year old nasty oil. This did not resolve my issue, though it did leave my garage with the pleasant scent of engine.

Next I guess I will have to sit down with some wire diagrams and a multi-meter (oh yea, color me excited) and make sure everything is wired right and to test the connections. I have the feeling it will be a waste of time, and that the oil bath may have ruined one or more of the pick ups in the distributor.

Here are a couple of crappy pics I snapped before I left for work this evening. The first one is a dark, sorry. I will take some better pics the next time I decide to work on it.




Look how clean that distributor is, and how shitty everything else looks. WD40 and a toothbrush can work miracles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I took a little time to test the resistance on the distributor today.

The the resistance between the orange and white wire below it is supposed to be 350-700 ohms. I was getting numbers between that, as well as numbers above and below it. I tested it at the distributor and at the ecu with the same results. On the bright side, the harness is good and the company I ordered a replacement from emailed me a tracking number already.

On to the IAT


Yeah, I didn't even bother testing it. lol
The guys at Rock Auto had one listed for like $15 shipped, and hopefully it will be here about the same time as the distributor.

I pulled the upper timing belt cover and checked to make sure the cam timing was on, and replaced the fuel return line (I think it was leaking a bit) along with the vacuum lines.

The clutch master cylinder is dry (awesome) so I hit the bleeder on the slave cylinder with some penetrating oil and will hit it again in the morning. With any luck I won't break it, and will be able to bleed the system tomorrow.

Then I decided I should clean up the interior a little, or at least enough to not catch Super AIDs when I had to get in and out of it to fire it up.

Anywho, pics


Clean... er
Free of Super AIDs, but there may be some other 3rd world country diseases growing.
The seats, carpet, and cracked center console will need to be replaced, and the door inserts need new fabric.

Where's a good place online to order tweed from?

Other than that the interior plastics are in good shape.




I forgot to take a close up of the booger that someone tried using to unsuccessfully hold in the window trim.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Put the pig up on 4 jack stands and started flushing the clutch and brake lines. I know companies make brake fluid in clear, pale yellow, red, and blue; however, I don't remember anyone making it in black. lol

I would like to say "I have my work cut out for me", but that would be too optimistic. Every time I open, lift, or turn something I find another pile of suck.

I didn't have enough brake fluid on hand to flush the lines, so I called it quits (stopped at the store this morning for a gallon of it) and decided to clean up the interior a little more.

I removed everything from the dash, doors, and pulled the center console. Everything was washed with diluted simple green, dried, and then reinstalled. It would seem that the previous owner didn't realize there was a screw holding the clock in behind the hazard button when he swapped the cluster. Does anyone read the Helms or do a Google search before starting a project? Seriously...

Next week I will order a replacement carpet and seats in black, and try to source some black tweed for the doors. It will be a 2 tone black and grey interior. I figure it will look better than all grey with just black seats.

This weekend I am going to finish flushing the clutch line and brakes, and then change the engine and trans oil. I also need (want really) to order a new radiator along with upper and lower hoses.

The replacement distributor and IAT should be here Monday or Tuesday, and the tires are being mounted Wednesday. If all goes to plan it will be in drive-able condition next week.

Edit:

Ugh.

I crawled under the car to find the shifter stabilizer being held on with a really long bolt that is just pushed through the hole. The previous owner must have been worried about the increased weight from this longer bolt, so he removed the flywheel inspection cover to make up for it. Cars like this is why the shop I worked with made Honda owners sign a waver or turned a better part of them away.

I also rechecked my distributor. My multi-meter was giving me out of spec readings, but something didn't seem right. I grabbed another multi meter and it gave me readings of 377-379Ohms across the pins for the 3 pick ups at the distributor and at the ecu. Something tells me the replacement I ordered may not fix the issue. I will have to keep my fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The new distributor and IAT came in and were installed today. This seems to have fixed both CEL's I was getting.

I also changed the engine and trans oil, finished flushing the clutch line, and replaced the rigged up shifter stabilizer bolt. While I was under the hood I have been cleaning everything I touch, so the engine bay isn't nearly as nasty as it is the the pic above. There were also some wires run from the battery and head unit to the hatch for an amp. Those have been removed... they were in some sorry shape, and look like they were run by an untrained monkey.

With any luck I can get the new tires mounted and balance's tomorrow, swap out the fuel filter (should be here tomorrow also) and then flush the brake lines. After that the car should be alright to drive.

I need to check the local parts store to see if they have any window weld. My mounts look like shit, but I figure filling them should take care of that issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It Lives!

Dropped off my wheels to have the new tires mounted and balanced this morning when I got off duty. Woke up around 3, picked up the tires and a new fuel filter.

Finished flushing the brake lines and put in the new coolant over flow tank.

After double checking everything I tossed the wheels on, and took it out for gas, a new set of wipers, and a beating. I forgot just how bad the A000 trans was. I guess I will have to bump that up a couple of spots on the list. This one was really angry about shifts over 6000 RPM. I am sure the shitty short shifter doesn't help the problem.

Here it is after I got back from the store.



I need to do the U-Joints on my truck, but after that the hatch will be going back on jack stands. Whoever installed the coilovers adjusted the ride height improperly, but that should only take a few beers to fix. Then I can get it in for an alignment... the back end is a little skittish.

I also ordered a new set of engine and torque mounts. When those show up I will fill the 2 torque mounts, and keep my fingers crossed that it helps with those 3rd gear shifts.

Edit:

The best part of this pic is the car in the background. My neighbor came home drunk like 2 months ago and parked on the curb... the car has not moved since then.

Also, if anyone has an extra set of coilover spanner wrenches they are willing to part with on the cheap, please let me know. Somehow I managed to misplace 2 sets of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Being off duty when you're on the midnight shift leaves you with a lot of free time, so I decided to work on the suspension instead of my U-Joints.

Like I thought, the fronts were setup wrong. I set them back them up the way Skunk2 describes in their video, and all was well... well, not really.

On the driver's side the bolt that connects the LCA to the shock fork was stripped. I looks like the original install took a turn for the worse, and they left it as it was. Ugh. The parts and hardware stores open soon, and with any luck I will find a suitable replacement.

The rears on the other hand were setup properly, but the locking rings were never tightened. This was better than bad because the rear height was already where I wanted it, so I just snugged everything up and put it back on the ground. Now it sits low, but not so low that I can't fit my jack under it (23.5" from the ground to the wheel well at the center of the wheel).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Plans? Look at the work bench in the background of the first pic ;)

I still need injectors, a new fuel pump, and a new ostrich before those parts are bolted up.

My new radiator hoses, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket cam in from Rock Auto today. A huge :TU: to those guys. I have acquired 5 or 6 of their refrigerator magnets since I bought this car :)
I want to replace the radiator, and then I think the car should be mechanically sound.

If I didn't have to replace the tires (unexpected) I would have the rest of the parts to get the engine seeing positive manifold pressure... oh well.

I like the hood, but would like it better if it was a little higher quality. I'm a CF whore. I was going to leave it and spray the roof black, and the rest of the car blue over the winter.

As for last nights project. The stores opened at 8, and my car was back on the ground by 8:30.

I have been making a list of parts (bolts mostly) that I need to order from Majestic, and those bolts along with the shock fork locking bolts have been added to it (it is a much longer list than I would like).

Next week I am going to pull the doors apart and remove the old carpet. The door locks are a little loose, and if I remember correctly there is a bolt and a clip that holds that stuff together. I have a feeling that something is missing or just not tightened down. I will also remove the door inserts and reupholster them. If there is enough money left over I will get the replacement carpet and seats ordered as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The valve lash has been adjusted, and the valve cover gasket (including the ones around the spark plug tubes) has been replaced. The best part was that my 8 year old tube of hondabond was still good... well, at least the half of it was.

A couple of other things came to my attention last night. I didn't notice at first, but the bolt that stripped yesterday was marked 10 (for 10.9 I assume), and the local hardware store only had 8.8 bolts. So I am going to have to put that order in to Majestic sooner rather than later.

I also found that the radio in the car only plays cd's and doesn't get actual radio stations. When I pulled the head unit (old aftermarket RF) I found an amazing rats nest of wires, tape, some wire nuts, and some crimp connectors. That mess was all pulled apart so I could solder and shrink tube it. The antenna was connected and looks fine. I put a multi-meter on it and I have continuity where I should and not where I shouldn't, so that's good. This leaves me with the head unit... it's just one more thing I need to replace.

The timing belt looks like it is in pretty good shape and looks like a replacement, but I'm thinking a timing belt, water pump, and oil pump might not be a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cleaned up under the hood, and readjusted the driver's side front suspension (it settled a bit).



I still need to do some more work on the fire wall and those hard to reach places on the back of the block.

I ordered new upholstery for the door inserts along with windshield moldings, upper trim, and clips. I have to call the local auto glass guy Monday and have him order me a new windshield.

With any luck my shifter bushings and engine mounts will be in next week and they will hopefully resolve my 3rd gear grind. If not it gives me a reason to have a new trans built. I also ordered a bunch of replacement bolts from Majestic.

I figure what I have should keep me busy for the next couple of weeks. Once I'm done with this stuff I will order the carpet and seats.
 

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Integra rear seats can be nice if done right....you need 2 door tops and 4door bottoms and it will look like a factory fit...2 door bottoms donr fit right and look like shit
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Integra rear seats can be nice if done right....you need 2 door tops and 4door bottoms and it will look like a factory fit...2 door bottoms donr fit right and look like shit
I don't know if you've noticed this or not yet, but nothing on this car was done right. lol

So yeah, they look like shit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I love to wake up and find a bunch of boxes at my door. It's been like Christmas everyday for the last week or so.

New engine mounts, A/C torque mount bracket, headlamp plugs, and a set of fiberglass wire fish rods (I need to run speaker wires up my living room wall).



+



=



I will let those shore up and install them next week when my shifter bushings show up. In the mean time they will be soaking in a bucket of water out in the sun.

I found this the other day while I was cleaning up the engine bay

:3dtard:

So I picked up some ceramic plugs and soldered them in


I taped them up and they are as good as new

I also grabbed this bracket because it just wasn't on the car.


The funny thing is that the mount is still on the frame. Whoever did the swap just got lazy. I need to pop by the hardware store Monday to grab some mounting bolts for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am going to make the assumption that the DOHC ZC A/C torque mount bracket is a little different from the standard D16 bracket.

Bolting this up should have been a 15-20 min thing, but turned into a 90*, humid as hell, 2 hour shit fest.

Initially everything was off about 3/8"... it was a bit of a head scratcher. After playing around with it for a bit I ended up turning the mount around (mounting it 180*), and cutting the extended bit of the bushing off. I put the bushing piece back on the engine side of the mount, and with the help of a few washers everything is bolted up.

The other mounts are still on the car (originals), so the replacements should bolt right up.

Why is it that the simplest things turn in to the biggest PITA?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Broken engine mount bolts




Only 2 of the 3 bolts were there, and both were broken.

Awesome.

This fucking sucks.

Ideas?

I have the feeling this engine is going to have to come out so I can get at those 2 bolts, but I am going to try removing the other mounts and loosing the rear trans mount so I can jack the engine up a bit. That may give me enough room to get at those holes.

If I end up pulling it out I may just swap it with something else. Though it may be considered a D series engine, I believe the issues I am having are related to the extra cam this engine has. :)

The issue with swapping... I am in ND, and there is nothing up here, and I will have to order from one of the importer/distributors, and it seems like they are all really proud of what they are pimping.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Pulled the exhaust manifold, and all of the mounts so I could lift the engine up enough to work on those bolts this evening.

The hole on the head was chased and is good, and the bolt stuck in the middle hole came out with ease. The bottom bolt turned in to 2 hours of me mother effin' the person that did this swap originally. On top of that I wouldn't be me unless I screwed something up.

I was a little off center and crooked on the bottom bolt. The bottom half is gone and I have theads, but a sliver of the top is fused to the aluminium. After breaking 2 bolt extractors, and my 3rd drill battery died, I decided I was done. The engine is back in the car, and I just need to deal with the timing belt. If a SOHC only has 2 bolts on that mount, then I shouldn't need any more than that... yep, that's how I am going to rationalize/justify it.

In the fall I will be swapping out the transmission and clutch, when I do that I will just pull the engine and heli-coil the third hole then.

Edit:
This doesn't really need a separate post.

The filled mounts are in, while it was up on jack stands I put in poly shift bushings and the original shifter. Who has a 3rd gear grind? Not this guy.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
New upholstery on door inserts

Now that the engine and transmission are actually attached to the car, as well as running and shifting properly it is time to move on.

Here is what I started with




I bought a couple of yards of automotive fabric


Black and Grey

And this is what I ended up with




I did forget one important detail. Always wear long sleeves when spraying Super 77. Super 77 + arm hair = the suck

I need to order a carpet, but I am not sure if I should go with a Black or Charcoal carpet from stockinteriors.com.

Which do you think will match better?


Black


Charcoal

I'm thinking the Charcoal might match the Black and Grey inserts a little better. I ordered samples and hopefully one of them will match.
 
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