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that's what i thought the timing was. i did a quick look through my buddy's del sol repair manual.



this morning i decided to take another crack at fixing my crx. so i re-did the timing. i checked the torque on the head bolts. checked all the hoses/vacuum lines/ground-dizzy-vtec wires, and everything looks good. i'm getting good spark. the battery was just charged. the distributor is wired up correctly. i have good spark plugs and wires. so why isn't it starting. i did the jumper harness test, and this is where i came up with the possible solution. it threw a code. CEL #19. this confused the hell out of me though. i have a p28-a02. code #19 is for the automatic transmission gear lock solenoid/valve. i don't have an automatic ecu though. so i popped the thing open and WHA-LA! sure enough it says "37820-p28-a52" on the inside! the **** i bought it from must have swapped cases or stickers or something. but you can easily turn an auto ecu into a manual ecu. i found out how so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. i'm gonna see if this fixes the problem. if it isn't the problem, i don't have a clue on what it is and i'll swap heads again and go back to the stock non-vtec head.

if anyone has any ideas, i'll gladly take them into consideration

the timing is good
there's good spark at the plugs
the engine turns over fine, like it should when it starts
there's plenty of fuel going into each cylinder (there's gas on the plugs after trying to start it)

it just won't start! it turns over, sounds like it'll start, but just doesn't! so any ideas other than the auto ecu problem (which i'm going to hopefully fix tonight), i'm all ears.
What was it?
 

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Did you end up completeing this ? As i am in the same boat. My y5 has lie little to no comoression due to a jack @$$ i hired to do head gasket and water pump timing belt, and i am about to pick up a y7. Want to know whi ch would do me best and easier/ cheaper the y7 bottom and y5 head or y5 bottom w y7 head? And or would the y5 block be no good with compression numbers low as40 highest of 70?? Need help if you got this completed asap plz need my beutiful 96hx back on the road
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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Did you end up completeing this ? As i am in the same boat. My y5 has lie little to no comoression due to a jack @$$ i hired to do head gasket and water pump timing belt, and i am about to pick up a y7. Want to know whi ch would do me best and easier/ cheaper the y7 bottom and y5 head or y5 bottom w y7 head? And or would the y5 block be no good with compression numbers low as40 highest of 70?? Need help if you got this completed asap plz need my beutiful 96hx back on the road
maybe the mechanical timing is off .
 

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Yeah I'm going to go back through and figure out how to get it perfectly timed again cuz the distributor needs time to also but he swerving down and he had it at top dead center and what not I just had to figure out the ignition timing with the distributor. But it clearly was not top dead center hey because I don't know what happened but it looks like it was chiseled off or something the markings on the crank and there was three different marks identical that were like grind it off or something very faintly not like damaging the crank pulley but enough to where you don't know which one is the timing mark for it but I'm going to sit down and try to figure that out this evening and hopefully that will get it going but if it was off time it would literally drop compression that low?
 

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94 Civic EJ 5MT
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I just replaced my thermostat, thermostat housing, upper and lower radiator hoses and then bled the system. A week goes by and the cars running great and temp gauge is perfect! I checked under the hood the other day after a drive and my overflow was at the very top and it had kicked out some coolant.
I checked the oil (perfect), and the coolant is nice and clean!
There are no leaks anywhere and the cars idle is perfect! Could this be a water pump issue? I was planning on doing the water pump anyways, also put a new timing belt and idler while I’m in there… has anyone had this happen? I hope it’s not a HG issue! Tested compression and all seemed fine.

any feedback would be great!
Thanks
 

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4 door accord springs fit just right.
Are you allowed to tie your front unibody rails inside your engine bay to your cage? This will help get rid of the (third spring) the body flex.tie your strut tower into that tubing rught there with a plate of steel welded to the tubing.cut a hole in the plate for the strut top and mounting bolts.your suspension will be in the stock location still but tied into your chassis to take out flex.Same with rear strut assembly.

if it was dirt I would have a ton of dirty secrets for ya.
I’m building a 96 civic for dirt any advice would help on set up
 
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