Honda D Series Forum banner
41 - 60 of 67 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I'm looking for a decent repair company. It'd be really nice if you could recommend me anything. I found westminster motors one, they have good reviews and the site is pretty promising. Has anybody had experience with this company?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hey guys am new to the honda works am Elijah an am in need of help an not just received Me honda logo d13b Moto an I want to used the head from the 13 Moto an put it on a zc block. While going manual an turbo. Ant tips ideas or parts for sale u can link me to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
For stock cam, for start - yes, rev limit 7100... IMO there is no point of taking it further... in future with aftermarket cam we'll see, will take it to dyno, and will se where it lands ;)
this is my build

D16A6 PISTONS 75,5 MM ON D16Z6 RODS
SKUNK2 INTAKE WITH B18C 62MM THROTTLEBODY
AEM FUEL RAIL
B&M FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
HONDATA INTAKE GASGET
LIGHT PORTED & SHAVED HEAD
ZEX 59200 CAM (STAGE 2)
OMI HIGH COMPRESSION VALVES
ZEX VALVE SPRINGS
4-2-1 HEADERS (JCP-PERFORMANCE)
2,5” GREDDY SP2 CATBACK
TESTPIPE

TCC 4,7 KG FLYWHEEL
COMPETITION STAGE 4 CLUTCH
MFACTORY LIMITED SLIP DIFF
MFACTORY 4,7 FINAL DRIVE
What is the power? I dream to have an na build. Here in Brazil its normal to but bonkers parts to have power cuz the engines available are like 80hp 1.6's and a d16 is soo good here, i will be not able to daily an stage 4 cam and hayabusa itb's, but i want it. What was the price? I need to convert it in dollar and double the price cuz all of this shit need to be imported. No, b16 engines arent cheaper, they are like foreign import legends, just like an nsx here. Thanks for reading! Please reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I'm running PG6 pistons on my oem deck height and mill on a Z6
I'm also running a stage 2 crower cam

its running like a champ and have zero issues

in hindsight I should have chosen the P29 the CR isn't that much of a difference and from what I understand unless you are in the 13:1 or higher it should not be any problem running 91
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi there,

I'm looking for a service manual and came across with this thread

and all the download link are dead apparently.

Can anyone please kindly seed the file over the torrent as I'm trying the rebuild my engine on my JDM Civic Ferio EK3 4 Door


Sorry for broken my English

and wish you have a nice day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
a non vtec head has 2 rockers per intake cylender

vtec has 3

vtec has 2 primary rockers, and one secondary. when vtec engages, a piston goes threw both primarys into the secondary, making it one giant rocker. and the rocker pad on the secondary pushes both valves down. so the intake has 3 lobes on vtec. two for each valve, then one bigger lobe in the center of them that has higher lift and or duration or whatever.

so, the "normal" lobes are spread farther apart, and a little skinnier. to make room for the bigger lobe in between them.

the best thing to do in your situation, depending on what is missing from your rocker stuff, is use the non-vtec rockers from your y7. and use your y7 cam towers with your y7 head so you dont run into issues with them not being line bored the same
Howdy
So as far as I have gathered, if I use my y7 cam n rocker assmbly and set to tdc, what about the dizzy. I have crank but no start
It’s in a z6 head. I’m trying to run my daily idc about vtec
IlI don’t really want to worry that much about timing more than the basics so any light shed would be appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
So can you do d16y7 vitara.turbo build ?I see d16y8, d16z6,d16a6. Is d16y7 not compatible for boost? No parts for it? Weaknesses hindered it? I thought very similar to d16y8 just a non vetec sohc.or could I peice together d16y7 block,d16y8 head and crank.

I am just finishing up my Vitara and speed factories no notch rods build in a d16y8.
How did it go
 

·
Registered
Sloppy Jalopy
Joined
·
2,510 Posts
My turbo build up








So can you do d16y7 vitara.turbo build ?I see d16y8, d16z6,d16a6. Is d16y7 not compatible for boost? No parts for it? Weaknesses hindered it? I thought very similar to d16y8 just a non vetec sohc.or could I peice together d16y7 block,d16y8 head and crank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
IIRC, the JDM VTEC-E engine is pretty much the same as the USDM D15Z1; if it's an original "Z1" engine it should have came with the smaller intake manifold. Another way to check is look for the oil warmer/cooler. Though, the P08 is not optimal, it will work.

Also, just because it's an overseas motor doesn't mean there's no chance it was modified previously; I remember some people finding aftermarket cams(Jun or HKS) in some B-series motor that was imported, etc.

The wideband O2 sensor is not the same as the other O2 sensors; they're about $200.

If you're really just trying to stay cheap, leave the motor as is, and just get the P28 chipped/socketed. Not optimal, but should work just fine.

The D15Z1/VTEC-E, stock, redlines at 6000rpm; so it's no surprise that it doesn't run well at higher RPMs.




I just bought a 100% stock d15z1 with the tranny attached. I have hondata s300 and was pretty much wondering if i can just connect it to the z6 wiring harness i have in my car right now. Can anyone help me? Ive got z6 head to swap if absolutely needed but my intentions were to keep it as stock as i can. Ive got the cat still on it too so ive got 02 sensor and it came with all accessories. The previous owner will let me get all of the wiring harness if i need it. Thanks in advanced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey, can I get the specs for a d16y7? I have looked everywhere and cannot find them,
Thanks!

hey guys,

i compiled a lot of information from a very reliable source, I CAN OFFER IT TO YOU GUYS IF YOU ASK ME WHAT YOU NEED, IM NOT GONNA TYPE ALL OF IT. BELOW IS ABOUT 1 PAGE OUT OF PROBABLY 6 ON JUST THE D16Z6. LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU NEED.first engine:

D16Z6

VIN CODE: EH3,EH9,EJ1 (HATCH,4 DOOR, COUPE)

Valve clearance:
INTAKE .007-.009IN (.18-.23MM)
EXHAUST .009-.011IN (.23-.28MM)

OIL COMPACITY:
3.5QTS. INCLUDING FILTER
COMPLETE ENGINE OVERHAUL = 4.2QTS

OIL PRESSURE:
OIL TEMP @ 176 DEGREES FARENHEIT
10 PSI @ IDLE
50 PSI @ 300RPM

OIL PUMP SPECS:
INNER ROTOR TO OUTER ROTOR RADIAL CLEARANCE: .0010-.0060IN (.025-.152MM)
SERVICE LIMIT: .0080IN (.203MM)
*
HOUSING TO OUTER ROTOR RADIAL CLEARANCE: .0040-.0070IN (.102-.178MM)
SERVICE LIMIT: .0080IN (.203MM)
*
HOUSING TO ROTOR AXIAL CLEARANCE: .0010-.0030IN (.025-.076MM)
SERVICE LIMIT: .0060IN (.152MM)

ENGINE SPECS:

DISPLACEMENT: 97CI (1.6L)
BORE: 2.95IN (75MM)
STROKE: 3.54IN (90MM)
COMPRESSION RATION: 9.2:1
HORSEPOWER @ RPM: [email protected]
TORQUE FT/LBS @ RPM: [email protected]

CRANK,MAIN AND CONNECTING ROD BEARING SPECS:

CRANKSHAFT END PLAY: .004-.014IN (.10-,35MM)
SERVICE LIMIT: .018IN (.46MM)
CRANK TOTAL RUNOUT: .001IN (.03MM)
SERVICE LIMIT: .002IN (.05MM)
MAIN AND ROD OUT-OF-ROUND: .0001IN (.0025MM)
SERVICE LIMIT: .0002IN (.0051MM)
MAIN AND ROD JOURNAL TAPER: .0001 (.0025MM)
SERVICE LIMIT: .0002 (.0051MM)
ROD JOURNAL DIAMETER: 1.7707-1.7717IN (44.976-45MM)
MAIN JOURMAL DIAMETER: 2.1664-2.1654IN (54.976-55MM)
CONNETING RODS:
ENDPLAY: .006-.012 (.15-.30MM)
+ A LOT MORE!

THANKS,
-JACK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Ok ladies...this is the deal

IF YOU WANT TO RUN ARP STUDS ON Z6 BLOCK/Y8 HEAD YOU NEED THE FOLLOWING:

1) Z6 STUD KIT
2) PN# AM6.100-1LB DIRECT FROM ARP (1 piece)*

*
This piece will replace the Z6 stud in the corner where the VTEC solenoid is located on the Y8 head. You need this part and neither a Z6 stud or Y8 stud will work. PN# AM6.100-1LB has same pinch/diameter as Z6/Y8 except it is between the two in terms of its length...perfectly fitting the application.

Vince
what length ? that blot come in 5 different lengths i think
 
41 - 60 of 67 Posts
Top