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Sloppy Jalopy
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d15b and d16z6 use the p08 head but it's looking like it's a obd1 jdm d15b with obd2 intake and oil pump.

spark maps would not be ideal with that ecu.
is there a knock sensor ?
 

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EJ8
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
d15b and d16z6 use the p08 head but it's looking like it's a obd1 jdm d15b with obd2 intake and oil pump.

spark maps would not be ideal with that ecu.
is there a knock sensor ?
I am not sure, I am going to assume it doesn't because these motors don't typically, correct? I will check though.

match the ecu to the head.
or get something programmable and do basically whatever you want forever
That's the plan for future.. Run a p28 with Hondata which seems to be the popular choice, need to save up some loonies first :p

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Update:

I am waiting on a distributor. I purchased a new one since the one on the car is dinkered. I really shouldn't have just assumed the rotor and cap were all that was damaged when the screw came out but, I guess I was just trying to be hopeful. I bought a timing light yesterday (Bosch Digital for $45) and I had the ditsy absolutely cranked as advanced as possible and that line in between the 3 was close, but not close enough. I guess to give you an idea:

The V is the gunsight, timing line on right, the 3 for ign. timing on left, etc.. The V is as close as I could get it.

| | | V |

It would seem to set fine, I would move it in the driveway for a minute and then it seems to revert back to the original shit way. It wouldn't run, no power, stall, fall on it's face.. etc. So I took the ditsy off and opened it up. Found some pretty obvious issues right off the bat. I can spin the shaft as if it were a basketball on my finger.. It just keeps going.. and makes a bad bearing crunchy noise. The pickup housing was cracked as well.

Aside from that.. I fitted a CTR front lip on Morty. I like it way better than the one that I had on it before :) It is going to stay black for now, but I may wrap it body colour when I do the rest of the car.

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Until next time... ;)
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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I agree. HTS or Neptune. HTS is basically a copied version of ECTune, so I'd trust it. Not super high on Hondata either at this point. Especially since here in the states you can get fined for buying one at this point. Yay EPA! See the stuff from PFI Speed on that.
 
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EJ8
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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
please don't buy in to the hondata fagwagon those guys are turdasses.
I agree. HTS or Neptune. HTS is basically a copied version of ECTune, so I'd trust it. Not super high on Hondata either at this point. Especially since here in the states you can get fined for buying one at this point. Yay EPA! See the stuff from PFI Speed on that.
And btw the car looks great!
Interesting. Looks like I am some reading and research to do and thanks for the compliment on the car.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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You are welcome! HTS (Honda Tuning Suite) is free, you just need an emulator (Moates Ostrich/Hulog with chips, Cobra RTP, or Demon RTP) and it'll do all the things that Hondata does. HTS has a Facebook group that is pretty decent. Worth the read up anyhow. It also has all the boost by gear, popcorn mode, machine gun backfire BS that all the ricers love. Oh wait, I also love some of that sometimes............especially when the exhaust grenades off the car........but I digress. I know a dealer for the Cobra RTP that is a legit friend in Minnesota that could hook you up. I get nothing out that and can perhaps even swing a discount if he can. Read up on the ways you can do it.
 

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EJ8
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Update:

I have managed to get the car running again and it does drive decently well. Does it drive the same as before? Maybe it is just me but I want to say no it doesn't.. but that is something I will be working on over the next little while. In the meantime I am back on track with the side projects I had before..

Transmission swap: Picked up a P20 B000 and was told it was good, no grinds, etc. I am going to swap in a new flywheel and run an OE Exedy replacement, and will do a full degrease and maybe give it a lick of paint to freshen it up. I will also be replacing the slave cylinder (may as well) and new lines.

The clutch release bearing and synchro's are pretty jiggity janked on the transmission in the car now, so that's why I am swapping in this other one. I will be rebuilding the janky one for future boost dreams. I have watched a lot of videos on rebuilding manual transmissions and it honestly doesn't look that difficult.. maybe a bit daunting at first but I find it super interesting and something I would like to try.

Rear end build: So, when I installed my Yonaka's I had some issues with the LCA bolt that connects to the rear hub. Just to get that out was a royal pain my ass and my friends ass. We managed to get it out and re assemble it the best we could to get it back in... and I know it's only a matter of time before our temp. fix fails. I picked up some trailing arms for cheap and stripped them down, sand blasted them and will be painting them soon, new bushings, everything will be new and refreshed.

So here is a before and after...
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I need to drill out that bolt that snapped in there when taking it off the arm but once that is out, I will paint them black and they'll pretty much be ready to be re assembled into the arm with new hardware. I will be rebuilding the ones I pull out of the car as well, but see if I can't make them work for Disc? If I don't have to buy all new trailing arms to swap over to disc, that would be great.

Today I will be re-painting the valve cover, just the factory wrinkle black. It needs it, looks like crap.

That's about it for now.
 

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EJ8
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
So, today I decided to finally degrease my spare transmission that I will be swapping in sooner than later, hopefully. It was remarkably easy to clean this thing up. Give or take 2hrs tops to set everything up, prep, clean and put everything away.

I used a degreaser called - Krud Kutter. It did a decent job.

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I am crossing my fingers that the kid I bought it from was being honest with me about the internal condition of it. I tried to move the input shaft up and down, side to side and it was solid so I am assuming the bearing is fine. It is a bit noisy when I turn the shaft but it doesn't have any fluid in it so I expect it to have some noise.

All I need to do is order new seals, and get a flywheel w/ clutch. I am just running an OE replacement clutch and flywheel.

Over the winter I will be rebuilding the transmission I am swapping out - I need LSD back in my life.
 
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