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Discussion Starter #21
Honestly man you need to step back and KISS. Your reply is bordering on hilarious and its pretty clear electrical is a bit over your head. But fret not, it is over 95% of peoples heads.
Actually electrical is not over my head, just trying to crowd source ideas with the data I had because I hadn't had much time to be able to diagnose at the vehicle on my own time. I don't see how having as much data as possible makes it seem like it is out of my realm of thinking. I like to rule out as many possibilities as possible, and it may have seemed overkill, but as well, I had seen many similar problems with varying fixes. I have solved the problem with a new TYC alternator from rockauto.com

My thing is, I didn't want to just throw parts at the car. Maybe your bankroll is enough to do things as freely as you like, but mine, not so much. So this is why I was trying to troubleshoot everything I possibly could. If I could have had the ammeter on the positive cable to the battery, it would have shown that the amperage while driving was insufficient to effectively power everything constantly. My suspicion of the ELD was simply due to lack of discussion on the exact way it works and the parameters in which it operates. So I'm glad I could modestly entertain you and help you to feel more elitist about your perceived understanding of all things electrical, but don't assume just because someone asks a lot of questions, that they don't have the understanding...there's always room to learn and always more than one way to get around a problem.
 

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flickering lights in a honda 101

Im covering everything just so you have a list, not necessarily saying you checked things wrong.

-alternator and components. Includes INTERNAL connections to volt reg. sometimes components are PERFECT, but connections are shit

-battery. bad cell, low battery acid, terminal is going bad inside. Check bad terminal by having car OFF, headlights ON, and while a friend holds a multimeter to the WIRING, tap terminal of battery DOWN with butt of a screwdriver or lightly with a hammer. If reading goes wonky and "resets" to normal, terminal might be bad, and battery should be replaced.

-dimmer switch. UNRELATED to headlights themselves flickering. CAN make instrument flicker

-headlight switch. pull it off, check pinout connections, check for signs of arcing.

-GROUNDS. headlight harness has its OWN ground. easy one to miss or forget. I have forgotten it MANY times over the years. Dont feel bad or stupid.

Final thing to check is the headlight plugs themselves. Mine were NASTY NASTY NASTY! a toothpick to clear out "sludge" from old grease, a very small file (even a nail file can work, though slow) to clean inside tabs. Can temporarily make a jumper harness with female and male spade connectors to test for voltage.


Keep at it!! Flickering lights are annoying as hell
 

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Okay, so I'm new to the forum but not new to Hondas or working on cars in general. I have a 2000 EX, 5 speed I just purchased a week ago. It has 189k Miles and looks like it only has 30k and everything is stock except for one new OEM motor mount (practically a damned unicorn these days). So onto the meat of the subject, driving at night from work, my instrument cluster lights, including the cruise light while it is on, as well as the headlights will all flicker/pulsate in no discernible pattern while cruising on the interstate at or above 3k rpm. It will sometimes get bad enough that the SRS light will come on intermittently. No CEL has been thrown (and yes the light does illuminate during KOEO check). Battery light does not come on during driving either. I plan to test the battery and clean up the grounds and check all major power connections for tightness this weekend. I just wanted to see if anyone has ever found a definitive fix for this condition? All the searching I did came up with alternator, battery, Fuse #15 and some wiring harness woes under the intake, but no one ever finishes their damned posts if they fix it or not!!! So if anyone has some real knowledge on remedies of this condition I would really appreciate it! Thanks in advance.
Not entirely clear if you posted if you solved this or not. I don't think so, so I'm putting my experience here.
2005 Civic 1.7L (Wife's car)
Went for a drive and noticed flickering headlights, and a slight stutter at all loads and RPMs. Very slight.
Grabbed my meter, checked battery voltage after it sat for a bit. 12.6 VDC. Fired it up and checked it again at the battery. 14.4 VDC. Noticed it was a little bit of a rough reading. Perfect enough. Revved it up to around a fat 2k. (Couldn't see tach. Doesn't matter. Well above idle is what matters.) Saw it flicker up to 15.5 VDC. Set it to max, revved it up and it hit 15.9! At this point we know it must be an alternator issue. Either the built in rectifier, regulator, or w/e. But it's bad either way. Voltage rapidly fluctuated from about 14.3-15.4 from what I could see. Decided to keep an eye on the voltage while I was driving so I clipped the negative of the meter to the cigarette lighter plug and the positive luckily stuck well enough into the center. Duct tape would've helped though. Noticed while driving voltage rapidly flickered all over between 12-14.6 VDC depending on combinations of high beams on/off, AC on/off, etc. The ELD seemed to be working fine. As soon as the blower or the headlights switched on, the voltage jumped up. When I shut them off, it dropped back down to a slow charging voltage of 13.2 VDC. Perfect.
Already knew the Alt was bad as soon as I saw something above 14.4 V though, so swapped it out and flicker and stutter were gone, voltage was rock steady 14.3-14.4 VDC under load. Under full load it would drop down to about 12 VDC though. This could be an issue if we did repeated short distance, high beams on with AC blasting. Rare so NBD to me. I did get a reman. alt. A high current one would surely not have that issue.
All happy now though.
 
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