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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I searched and found nothing of the sorts so here we go....


I'm making this thread for people doing research on engine building. Please post what engine you have, what Pistons and Rods your running (be specific don't just say forged, mention manufacture and spec's) Mention if you have any coatings and such on parts as well.

The reason why im making this thread is because im stumped as to what direction I want to go with my engine build. I'm working with either a D16y8 or a D16y7 Block (I have both at my disposal) I want to build a completely reliable 400+ hp Turbo D-series. Meaning I want to be able to ring it out at the strip and still be able to drive it to work on monday (THIS IS NOT A DAILY DRIVER BUT STILL A STREET CAR)

My Plan's:

D16 Block bored to 76mm, Crank high-speed balanced with clutch/flywheel/harmonic dampener. ALL rods pistons will be balanced AFTER being coated (swaintech.com) Gold Coat on Dome and PC-9 on Skirt, The head will be a vtec head (D16y8) less some stock materiel (major port job) and filled with Bisimoto valve train and level 2.4 camshaft.

I don't know what brand piston to go with, I have never use aftermarket pistons in any build, just OEM pistons. Ive been pulled left and right over using Vitara's or Forged pistons. Personally I don't like the idea of spending so much money on a motor to use cast pistons, but im also going to run stock sleeves, But the same story on if I should go block guard or not but that's a different story. id like to know what pistons/rods your running and how much power your making and how long you have been on your set-up
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, please keep opinions to a minimum. . . I could care less about what everybody talks about doing I only want to know what you yourself have done, so If you have no experience with engine internals sit back and absorb/learn.
 

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Well?
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only thing i wonder is balancing after coating. They are going to be grinding the rods and what not to get them to spec so the coating will be ground away. Are you going to re-coat after that or not? Really only the pistons need the coating. In my old machine shop class my teacher and i used to discuss stuff like this, he helped on a race team that ran a rail car BB ford all motor on alky and the only thing coated was the pistons. Also, i dont really see balancing a piston per say. I mean spoon just finds that are closest in weight and use them. Obv. forged unit will be easier to match their weights since they can be machined without really harming the integrity of the piston itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
only thing i wonder is balancing after coating. They are going to be grinding the rods and what not to get them to spec so the coating will be ground away. Are you going to re-coat after that or not? Really only the pistons need the coating. In my old machine shop class my teacher and i used to discuss stuff like this, he helped on a race team that ran a rail car BB ford all motor on alky and the only thing coated was the pistons. Also, i dont really see balancing a piston per say. I mean spoon just finds that are closest in weight and use them. Obv. forged unit will be easier to match their weights since they can be machined without really harming the integrity of the piston itself.
I'm not all that concerned about the coatings on the parts after balancing, there are generally pads on the rods for removing material, its only there to wick oil from them to reduce drag, the pistons on the other hand can have material removed form the under side.


I'm still at a loss as to what pistons and rods to use
 

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76mm is too much boring IMO on stock sleeves if you are going forced induction. They are thin enough as it is, the most I would bore is to 75.5mm. N/A is a different story though ;)

My setup:
a6 block
Tuner Toys(ching chong meow) forged i-beams
SRP 75.5mm 9.0:1 a6 slugs
Hastings rings
ACL main and rod bearings
a6 head
OEM y8 HG
Delta 272 cam
AEM cam gear
Blox IM
60mm TB
Precision 880s

Homemade mini-ram
was running a t3/t4 .48/.60 60 trim, but this year I will be running a Holset HX35 with 12cm exhaust housing
rest is a basic turbo kit

I have another build in the works as well, I will post the details when it actually starts coming together.
 

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Well?
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well theres pauter rods, they are pretty much the toughest steel rod on the market for a D but they are $$$$. Then there is aluminum rods. They dont do well in cold weather and are good for roughly 40k miles or so before they need to be replaced but are light and take shock well. Other than that really all Eagle/Scat/FJ rods are all the same.

Pistons, well theres a lot of options out there. CP, Wiseco, SRP, Arias are the main forged units. And of course vitaras. Its all in what you want your budget to be
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have another build in the works as well, I will post the details when it actually starts coming together.
Thank you for your post!

I plan on using a GO-AUTOWORKS Ram-Horn manifold and a BW S256 Turbo

I went with 76mm on my N/A build. . . I figured 76 and a block guard would do. . but that's still up in the air
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well theres pauter rods, they are pretty much the toughest steel rod on the market for a D but they are $$$$. Then there is aluminum rods. They dont do well in cold weather and are good for roughly 40k miles or so before they need to be replaced but are light and take shock well. Other than that really all Eagle/Scat/FJ rods are all the same.

Pistons, well theres a lot of options out there. CP, Wiseco, SRP, Arias are the main forged units. And of course vitaras. Its all in what you want your budget to be
Rods: I planed on running any of the Eagle/Scat/FJ rods, aluminum is just absurd lol

Pistons: I was looking into CP and Arias because I can get them from a local vendor for a reasonable price
 

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alum rods are nice as shit if your not gonna put a shit ton of miles on the car fast. They take abuse better and weigh less. The cost around 695 for as set. But other than that whatever you can get cheaper since there really is no difference but id get FJs just to support them. Id also go arias if you get em cheap
 

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Carrillo and Crower both make as good a rods as money can buy. They will custom make for anything.

Don't even consider aluminium unless you have a lot of room for their bulk and you have huge shock loadings from high boost and nitro methane. They have a very unpredictable life span and on real serious V8 engines may last as short as 20 passes, but as long as 300 passes on moderate blown alcohol engine.

They were used OEM on some classic British motor cycles so they lasted many thousands of miles, BUT in that case they were under low stress.

A company called Argo Marine in Australia also custom makes rods to Carrillo quality standards.
 

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carrillo doesn't make a D rod, otherwise that would be recommendation as well or Manley.
 

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Crower rods are very nice had them in my first built block loved em
A6
crower rods
76mm vitara pistons
king bearings
oe oil pump
with a pretty simple turbo setup 44 trim cast mani then RCAutoworks full ram mani

Newish setup
A6 Eagle rods/vitara piston
oe ported pump
acl race bearings
topmount sc6169
sheetmetal intake mani
ported head 59500 cam supertech valvetrain
and a shit load of boost hoping for 500+
There is alot more but its not really relevant.
The bottom end is pretty easy to be honest for a D stock sleeves and vitaras go together like a baby and pacifier. My concern would be how is this bitch going to breathe head work is going to be the key here man. The block isnt shit if you want to get fancy look at calico bearings that should ease your mind about revving this hoe out.

I do have another project that Im working on but its a B and Aluminum rods will be going in that. There cheap considering will take abuse and are just a pretty good rod for drag racing. There are quite a few of the big boys using the aluminum rods
 

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The Bisimoto Turbo wagon is using the Bisimoto Steel Rods. Our Steel rods are manufactured from the very best aircraft quality 4340 steel.The small end bores feature bronze pin bushings for floating pin applications, with three oiling holes, which providing amazing lubrication qualities in the most extreme performance applications.

We also use Bisi spec Arias pistons in all our builds from the Insight Drag Car to the wagon build. These also have extra oil holes in them to help with lubrication.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The Bisimoto Turbo wagon is using the Bisimoto Steel Rods. Our Steel rods are manufactured from the very best aircraft quality 4340 steel.The small end bores feature bronze pin bushings for floating pin applications, with three oiling holes, which providing amazing lubrication qualities in the most extreme performance applications.

We also use Bisi spec Arias pistons in all our builds from the Insight Drag Car to the wagon build. These also have extra oil holes in them to help with lubrication.
that's not exactly shelf items any gumba like myself can pick up. . . OR are they? :pinch:
 

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The Great Weldini
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HEAD

D16a6 head milled .040"
3 angle valve job
fully port and polish
injector jacket heli-arch sealed to optimize flow
combusture chambers welded
Exospeed Stag 4 cam
Edelbrock adjustable cam gear(red)
Bisi header V1
Skunk2 2.5" exhaust
Walbro 190lph fuel pump
RC 370cc motorcycle injectors (12 pin)
CBR1000RR itbs w/a D15B2 custom engineered to my build w/4" Webber velocity stacks

ENGINE

D16a6 block - .010" overbore, hone, hot tank bb blast, square and zero deck
SPR forge piston flate face
93 octane
Probe rods
D16y8 thin head gasket
engine fully balanced
crankshaft, checked for stress cracks, micropolish

TRANNY

ZC tranny rebuild
4.437FD w/OEM LSD
Fastline Performance Racing Shifter
 

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