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Discussion Starter #1
So i screwed up and broke it off. Should i try to remove it and risk damage to the head or fabricate a short section of tube with a bung in it for the new sender that would go right after the outlet on the head for the upper radiator?

 

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Discussion Starter #3
The sender I have does not appear to be copper. It is more of an aluminum color. I was putting it back in when it broke off so it is likely not that loose. I had given thought to taking my new water outlet cover back off and trying to twist from the inside with needle nose, but it doesn't seem there is that much room to do so in there.
 

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Get some left hand drill bits and drill it out. Then run a tap threw to chase the threads. Put HondaBond(or RTV) on the new sender and install finger tight
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I really need to avoid drilling the part if possible. I am not disassembling the head so there would be a rather strong chance of metal shavings inside. I tried an EX-5 extractor bit and that just tried drilling the metal. I don't think the EX-4 would bite into stuff before hitting the back of it. I guess I'll exchange the extractor bit for the smaller size and if it doesn't work, I'll just relocate the sender. I cannot risk damaging the head. I'm already a hundred bucks and more than a week over budget on this repair. I need to get this thing running so I can get to and from a job so I can buy or build another engine. If I wasn't fixing an overheating problem, I'd just run without the reading on the dash at all, but I feel it's rather important to have some sort of idea where my temp is at.
 

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about shavings - you can drill carefully and hold vacuum close to drill bit, and also when you drilling shavings coming out not in. Its coolant not oil! shavings not gonna damage the engine in coolant system. From drilling you will get not so much of shavings. The best if you have new sender you can measure it and make decision of what maximum drill bit you can use to enlarge the hole without damaging the thread. Remember the thinest walls you have the more easier it will come out with left hand bolt extractor. And start enlarging the hole in couple of steps using different drill bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The actual metal part that needs to be removed is about 1 maybe 2 mm thick. All the redish area is where the silicone is. It is not a stripped bolt or something, the whole top half of the sender snapped off so only the hollow part is left.
 

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Left hand drill bit will pull the shavings out, its the reason why you use left hand drill bits (that and the chance it snags and will unthread it)
 

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Hit what? If i hit it, wouldn't it thread in and not l out?
Nope.
Hit the back of the screwdriver so it is turning it in the loosen way.
Your not going to line it flush with the broken part. Your need a 45deg angle.

Don't go hammering on it. Just a few taps and it will get it to spin.
Don't this tons of time to bolts. Used air chisels for lug nuts. It will spin it out.
 

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You need a really sharp chisel to do it xiles way. I would try his way first. If that fails, man up and drill it with a left hand bit it will likely catch and turn it out. If it doesn't catch after you have it drilled you can use an extractor. Don't be a pussy.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I guess if I fudge it up and drill the threads unusable, I can always drill it larger and put in a bung. There's seriously only a mm of exposed metal then threads.
 

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looks like the threads are plastic
The whole thing is copper.


And to the OP

Your probably have to slowly drill it out then get a bit extractor.
You drill out it bites in.
That should work. Or drill and tap it.

With the head off you could easily flush out shaving. Even if the head was on the car simple use a shop vac to suck as you drill. Then flush the coolant once done.
 
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