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Classic Man
Civic
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That doesnt make any sense.

And if that was the case, I would remove the nut before separating the joint.


I have to remove and install these things all day at work. Its really no big deal. But I do get happy when I see a cotter pin instead of a Nylock. hah.

Anyone know the difference between Blue and White nylocks? :D
 

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D-series Janitor
Front Engine Dragste
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Think drilling is possible? Wont be to hardened? I really think I may, gotta verify a pair of the many castle nuts Ive been collecting will fit

If its m12 X 1.5 I have a die, but they like to use m12 X 1.25 in a bunch of bolts there, dont have that die
Probably would need carbide and I wouldn't do it unless you have a drill press.

In case you ever need a m12x1.25 McMaster-Carr
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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Ball joint steel is soft anyways, right... it should drill like a piece of cake!

(if it does, dont install it! lol)
 

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Lots of OEMs use nylon lock nuts on joints. They technically aren't reusable is the only real problem.
They are reusable. We use them at work all the time. They've been shown to be reliably reused 3 times.

Anyone know the difference between Blue and White nylocks? :D
I don't believe there's a difference. We get white and orange regularly. I think grade 8 comes with purple, though. That's the only color I've seen on the grade 8 nylock nuts, though.


EDIT: Also, if you're going to drill something threaded, I highly recommend using a crap nut. Center punch one of the faces, spin it on where you want it (even using a second one to lock, if it seems loose), and then drill.

Easier to start a drill bit on a flat, non textured surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ohhhhh. start drilling through the nut first?. THen just let it carry thru the stud and into the other side of the nut...

I was simply going to put a castle nut on and drill between the castle points, I have a decent drill bit set, dont mind if I snap or burn through 2 or 3. Just dont wanna try the impossible
 

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You can grind a small flat spot, instead, but if your drilling a stud/bolt that's taking a good amount of strain, you don't want to compromise it. Grinding a flat can weaken it more than just drilling a hole. A sacrificial nut works very well. And you can use it again.
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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If danz and guest, who both work professionally as mechanics, say that it's alright then I would just go ahead and use the nylok nut.

I trust the castle nut because that's the only thing I've ever seen...doesn't mean that other equally safe solutions aren't out there.
 

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I would of just returned the ball joints and got a set that has the hole provision for the cotter pin, but now that you don't have the boxes anymore, use the supplied nut and just make sure you torque it to spec
 

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man ive taken my ball joints on and off so many times and I don't even bother with the cotter pins. just another thing wasting time. I must have taken all ball joints and axle nut off about 15 times every year. the nylon ones are actually good but taking them off too some people is hard i guess because they hold on tight, have to put pressure on the ball joint itself if they start spinning which happens with both types of nuts

In my life of replacing about 1000 of them ive never seen them loosen over time, although ive seen 100's of honda's of all types snap the lower ball joint in turn ruining the axle and fender. always a good idea to repalce the lower they are easy with the honda trick. and dont tq with a gun thats just asking for trouble. always tq to spec with tq wrench if possible
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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I don't believe there's a difference. We get white and orange regularly. I think grade 8 comes with purple, though. That's the only color I've seen on the grade 8 nylock nuts, though.
I didnt know that about the grades thats good to know. From what I have seen, blue are Metric, white are SAE
 

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I just bought some new Moog lower balljoints for my ef hatchy, and the nut provided is a nylon locking style nut. No more castle nut and cotter pin??

Do I trust this shlllt?

I called Rockauto up on it as the picture shows a cotter pin but they say that is the latest revision and is perfectly safe.

New technology scares me. Probably have to use an impact to squeeze it to the knuckle aswell, my experience says it will spin the joint before sucking together with a ratchet
You're right about them being a pain. It's probably to save the manufacturer money. Every single time I've had to remove one of those stupid locking nuts from a ball joint, be it tie rod, sway bar link, etc., I've ended up having to pull out a grinder and chop the part to pieces getting it back off. And they're all moving to those stupid nuts. I'm guessing it's cheaper to place a silicone ring inside a nut vs. Cutting notches and drilling a hole in the threaded part. Duralast and other companies can kiss my ass. I'd happily pay a dollar or two extra for quality.
 
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