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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought some new Moog lower balljoints for my ef hatchy, and the nut provided is a nylon locking style nut. No more castle nut and cotter pin??

Do I trust this shlllt?

I called Rockauto up on it as the picture shows a cotter pin but they say that is the latest revision and is perfectly safe.

New technology scares me. Probably have to use an impact to squeeze it to the knuckle aswell, my experience says it will spin the joint before sucking together with a ratchet
 

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Iv never seen that before. Im sure its been tested and is fine. But as you said i would use a gun to zip them on and make sure theyre tight.


If youre unsure can you not still just use a pin too? I know it wont stop the nut from spinning and coming loose but it might stop it from falling off?

I also dont know if thats possible though. The new nut probably covers the hole.
 

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I had one of those once. A couple months after installing it, I need to take the nut off and separate the knuckle from the LCA... I think to replace the axle or something. Anyway, that stupid nut wouldn't come off... the ball joint threaded part would just spin and spin... Ended up taking a grinder to it and ruining the basically new ball joint. The problem wasn't getting it on and tight, the problem was getting it OFF. I replaced it with a new castle nut style ball joint and I do not intend to use the nylock nut style again.

And no, gitzer, you can't just use a castle nut on them because there's no hole in the shaft for a cotter pin to go through.
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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I installed new moog lower ball joints ~4 months ago and they came with castle nuts.

Wouldn't trust a nylock or even a stover nut for that application.

Does the ball joint box say Asia spec?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ive been debating drilling my own hole in this ball joints threads, which would probably end up in disaster, and installing a castle nut on it
 

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I install inners and outters all day. ive had moogs come with and without castle nuts and removed old lock style nuts without the joint itself spinning. If it ends up spinning the joint apply pressure to the bj while removing the nut. They wouldn't mass produce something being unsafe. In short: you'll be fine.
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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I'm sure it will hold correctly if you install it correctly,however, with the amount of times I pull my suspension apart in a year, that is very unacceptable. If you don't plan to pull anything apart (for bushings, axles, engine swaps, transmission/clutch work, etc., they'll be fine. If not, I wouldn't bother installing them at all.
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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They wouldn't mass produce something being unsafe.
No one would mass produce something unsafe and make money ever would they...

How about those cribs that got recalled after killing 4 babies. Or the peanut butter recall that killed at least 9 people.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
To cheap to use a cotter pin toaster? Little bit of lazy maybe?

I prefer the cotter pin / castle nut. Guess I'll have to be extra careful when orderring parts
 

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Lots of OEMs use nylon lock nuts on joints. They technically aren't reusable is the only real problem.

It will be fine. If the taper happens to break loose, the nut isn't going to back off and let the joint completely separate.
 

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D-series Janitor
Front Engine Dragste
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Lots of OEMs use nylon lock nuts on joints. They technically aren't reusable is the only real problem.

It will be fine. If the taper happens to break loose, the nut isn't going to back off and let the joint completely separate.
x2

If you are going to cross drill it, make sure you have a die handy to chase the threads with after drilling.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Think drilling is possible? Wont be to hardened? I really think I may, gotta verify a pair of the many castle nuts Ive been collecting will fit

If its m12 X 1.5 I have a die, but they like to use m12 X 1.25 in a bunch of bolts there, dont have that die
 

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Classic Man
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Many many many OEM's use the nylock.

The ball joint stud will have provisions to stop it from spinning upon installation and removal. Usually a hex bit. Kinda like a shock.
 

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The ball joint stud will have provisions to stop it from spinning upon installation and removal. Usually a hex bit.
The cheapie one from rockauto that I ended up taking a grinder to didn't have that. The bottom of the stud was sorta hollowed out, but just round - no hex shape... woulda been nice.
 
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