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ej8
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Discussion Starter #1
.Ok i got 2 quick questions.

1.) Do i 100% need to use all 5 bolts on the turbo exhuast flange? I made my downpipe and cut it a lil to close so now i cant put in this middle bolt. Is it safe to run it like that. Or should i cut and redo my downpipe?



2.) My downpipe has a few small pin side holes. I cant even see them with a light inside the pipe. But when i close off one end and pump air though the other i can hear them.
Now should i worry about this, is this something i would hear while driving? Or will it not matter because the exhuast shouldnt have that much back pressure to let a lot of exhuast gasses out those tiny holes.
 

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There is a chance you will hear a exhaust leak out them. I have before on small pin holes in exhaust.

As for the bolt hole I was wondering the same thing as I have a broke off bolt in one of mine.
 

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'89 CRX HF
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I personally would re-do the DP so that you could use all 5 bolts. Exhaust leaks suck, and I would hate to go through all the trouble installing the kit just to take it back off and re-fab the DP. Do it right the first time and you help eliminate issues down the road.
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #5
I personally would re-do the DP so that you could use all 5 bolts. Exhaust leaks suck, and I would hate to go through all the trouble installing the kit just to take it back off and re-fab the DP. Do it right the first time and you help eliminate issues down the road.
Yea I understand. I just finish cutting off the pipe. But I gotta get some more I'm going to just throw that pipe out I had it way to long and cut/welded it to many times.


Also another question. What do you guys do to check/find leaks in the exhuast piping?


@worpsol you can use a bolt extacter and some pb blaster.
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #8
You should hear a leak in the exhaust, locate it the best you can and you should see carbon buildup at the point of leak.
Yes i know that for on the car but what about off the car?
Im mocking all this up but wont be installing it for a few more months.

Yes, you need all 5. Yes, you need to worry about pin-hole leaks.
yea in the works with rewelding. and any idea on how to find them.
 

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You could just make like a bosst leak tester type device....pressureize the pipe and use a match or lighter close to where u hear the leak...see bif the flame flickers or blows out....I personally would use all t bolts...that exhaust will get hot, and over time may warp the flange enough to make a noticable leak
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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Learn how to weld so you don't have bird crap all over the place? No, I'm not really being a smartass. I had to learn somewhere, but, this was my first exhaust work, on a T25, no less:





That's 3", too. I learned by reading, getting some guidance from my dad, and lots of practice.

Now I can do stuff like this:





What welding machine are you using? What filler? What material? How are you prepping the welding surfaces?

Why are you running it so close like that?

Do you have pics of the other side?
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #12
I can weld ok I'm using a flux core.. I know that's my problem. I have problems welding angles. If its to stright pipes I can weld them up nice . But if the pipe has been cut at an angel then its a little harder forr me. But I'm going to work on that. Normally a grinder cleanes up the weld. And its a tight bend because it keeps ac. Check my thread.
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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Ok.

The biggest problem almost everyone has with fluxcore is learning to see the actual weld puddle, NOT the slag forming.

What kind of helmet do you have? If it is an autoarkening helmet that is adjustable, set the shade somewhere between 9-10. If you have a normal helmet, I would highly, highly recommend picking up a "gold glass" shade in about a 9. Those things are effing mazing, as you can still see colors with them, and it really helps differentiate the puddle so you can adjust better.

Are you pushing or pulling your weld? (You should be pulling with fluxcore!) Welding around things can be tricky, so don't try to do too much at first. Short bursts, chip and clean up the areas, then go again. Don't just try to weld over the slag. Always chip and brush the weld area before you start again. This will help minimize the pinholes and porosity you seem to be getting.

Ouch, man. That's tight. Have fun with that . . . LOL!
 

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Like acid beaver said, clean all the slag before you start welding again. Get in there with a cutoff wheel and grind a v into the end of your last weld to get everything out. You can overlap your welds.

I have a t25 setup myself and had to make a 2" to 2.5" cone to space the bend out enough to get the bolts to fit nice.



You can do this if you have a hydraulic press. Use a welding bottle cap as the cone if you don't have access to a lathe.

I run no gasket between my downpipe and turbo. But I also welded the downpipe bolted to the turbo and let it cool completely. You will have no leaks.
 

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Yea I understand. I just finish cutting off the pipe. But I gotta get some more I'm going to just throw that pipe out I had it way to long and cut/welded it to many times.


Also another question. What do you guys do to check/find leaks in the exhuast piping?


@worpsol you can use a bolt extacter and some pb blaster.
i always plugged one end, poured water in the other and then tried to pressurize it somehow like you would bleeding your brakes through the reservoir.
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
ok well here is the update.
I had another mask so i switch to that and i can see things better. But i ran out of weld after like 1 bead. SO got some wire from my friend. But that turned out to be gas mig weld so it didnt work.
Went to lowes and found some wire.Lincoln .035 wire NR211
Put that in and started welding. And behold everything worked much better for me. Was using harbor fright 0.030" E71T-GS Flux Core.
I was able to make welds that as very close to "The_Acid_Beaver" first picture.

Here are some pix. Remind you that i started welding with the harbor frieght wire. and finish off with the lincoln wire.




after some grinding. Its almost leak free. I have 1 pin size hole i gotta fill. Used water and pressure and saw it bubbling. I just gotta get some more time
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
 

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Classic Man
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honestly a really small pin hole will not make a difference. its going to full with carbon quickly anyways. but the reason for not wanting any leaks is because if its leaking before the o2 sensor, the sensor will read that extra oxygen and display a leaner AFR than you will actually have.

next time if u want more space to get the bolt in, throw a tack weld on either side of the bolt hole location and get a punch out and indent the tube so u have more space to get in there
 
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