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93 maybe 94 coupe
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289 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So buddy's car slightly grinded in 3rd, synchromesh helped 95% but from reading (plus the fact the shop says all synchros are good to go another 10 rounds) I guess he might have had other issues contributing to the grind.

Now w the auto/manual conversion, like his car, I'm not running an AC vibration mount damper thing. Problem? Everyone says check your mounts. He ran synchromesh. He also said non AC cars didn't run that mount, stock.

With this in mind, do I run Jurassic juice, synchromesh, or Honda MTF in the new tranny, and what are some proven ideas for preventing further grinding, and promoting a long tranny life?
 

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I've heard from many people if you have aftermarket performance motor mounts that there is no need to run both torque mounts ( a/c bracket mount in front of driver wheel)
Personally I want every mount I can have to insure my motor/transmission stays aligned properly and won't drop out from engine bay.
As far as transmission fluid I have heard good things from synchromesh fluid, redline, and of course Honda MTF . From what I have read they changed fluid specs after epa put restrictions on motor oil components. Not 100% on that but always better safe then sorry.. My transmission just bit the bullet and I already have 3qts of Honda MTF in my trunk right now.
Good luck on which ever you go with. :)
 

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1996 Civic Type DX
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Unless you're running solid mounts, run the torque mounts.

Do NOT run Honda MTF. 10w-30 motor oil is leaps and bounds better than Honda MTF.

If there is a grind, it will get worse and cost more the longer you wait to fix it. Fluid will not fix anything.
 

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93 maybe 94 coupe
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Discussion Starter #6
Synchros look like new according to shop so I'm not sure what can be fixed other than what's already in their trash bin. So if the grind is MOUNT related...

Running poly mounts, buddy was running stock minus driver side torque mount, maybe I will have less issue?

Do u guys use dino style or high tech 10 30's? Changing fluid is no big deal so if fresh rotella-d is the way to go but I gotta change it every x thousand miles then that's what's up

Tranny comes home tomorrow
 

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Unless you're running solid mounts, run the torque mounts.

Do NOT run Honda MTF. 10w-30 motor oil is leaps and bounds better than Honda MTF.

If there is a grind, it will get worse and cost more the longer you wait to fix it. Fluid will not fix anything.
What about running a Mfactory plated diff?

Later in the year i plan to do a rebuild with a mfactory diff. What makes 10-30 better than MTF?
 

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93 maybe 94 coupe
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Discussion Starter #9
It came from DINOSAURS. MTF comes from science.
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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What about running a Mfactory plated diff?

Later in the year i plan to do a rebuild with a mfactory diff. What makes 10-30 better than MTF?
Torco MTF and a Ford type Friction Modifier additive. I think Ford makes some shit called XL-3 that you can use, we use it at the Toyota dealer I work for in all our LSD apps. I don't know if Torco offers a friction modifier but if they do I bet it is good too.

If not just use some 10w30 motorcycle/ATV oil, it has more additives (ZDDP and phosphorus etc) because they share the same oil for the engine and trans.
 

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1996 Civic Type DX
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Honda MTF is too thin even when cold.

For MFactory Metal-Plate LSD, Torco RTF and Torco Type F Friction Modifier. Change every 7,000 miles or every 5 track events.
 

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I originally replied with no, but I've never had a customer try adding any into the LSD and I don't bother with the OEM viscous LSD's.
 
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