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Discussion Starter #1
i had some problems with my y8 head and instead payin to rebuild it i picked up a z6 head...
what all do i need to run this head on my y8 block?
i know i need the head, the z6 dizzy, and the z6 head gasket...
do i need the z6 timing belt or are they the same
and is there anything im missing?

hopin to get everything ahead of time so i dont have to stop halfway thru

btw if it helps its a y8 in an eg coupe managed by a p28
 

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Discussion Starter #2
oh and will i still be able to run 89 or 91 octane without problems
wondering if z6's bigger combustion chamber will change cr too much
 

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i had some problems with my y8 head and instead payin to rebuild it i picked up a z6 head...
what all do i need to run this head on my y8 block?
i know i need the head, the z6 dizzy, and the z6 head gasket...
do i need the z6 timing belt or are they the same
and is there anything im missing?

hopin to get everything ahead of time so i dont have to stop halfway thru

btw if it helps its a y8 in an eg coupe managed by a p28
Timing belt use a z6 but i believe they are the same, Use the z6 sprocket that goes onto the crank. Also you are going to need the ARP's from FJ distributors or Go-Autoworks i forget which one for the y8/z6 combo. Other than that i think your good.

oh yeah, and its an "ej-1" not an eg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
will the sprockets just swap from crank to crank
and the ARP's? havent heard about that yet wats it?
 

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i dont mean to thread jack but look i jus blew my complete y8 well i broke the timing belt and idk if i have bent valves but i have a z6 head laying around its going into an ek hatch so i know i am going to have to swap the internals from the z6 dizzy and put the y8 internals in cuz of obd2 but yea if i do a compression check even with no timing belt will compression still show?? i was jus gonna swap the head reguardless and as for the head studs idk i jus want it to run to get home im in jerzie and need to get back to staten island (my house) i was gonna trade my car for a cressida but now the car donmt run like i sed i dont mean to thread jack but i didnt want to make a new thread .. my z6 head already has a y8 cam and cam gear in it do i still need to swap the crank sproket??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so its been a while since i asked these questions
but someone posted above that i needed the arp headstuds.........
i went to my honda dealership and got factory ones and when i torqued them to spec there is still about half an inch between the head and the seat on the bolt on all of them except the outside 2 on the intake side... i know it shouldnt be like that haha

just wondering if the arp's are REQUIRED for this setup or if i should go bitch at my dealership for shipping me the wrong bolts lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
genuine honda parts
i went to my honda dealership and told him i needed the headbolts for a 92 1.6 single cam vtec (should be the z6 unles im crazy) and he said ok and told me to come back in 2 days because they had to be shipped in

the little bastards were $9.66 per bolt!
 

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genuine honda parts
i went to my honda dealership and told him i needed the headbolts for a 92 1.6 single cam vtec (should be the z6 unles im crazy) and he said ok and told me to come back in 2 days because they had to be shipped in

the little bastards were $9.66 per bolt!
arp uses STUDS not BOLTS, so that could be your reason why. and for that price you might as well gotten ARP over OEM.

and it would have probably been cheaper and less confusing just to repair the y8 or find a y8 head rather than trying to make the z6 head work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i know aprs are studs im not an idiot
i dont have a credit or debit card to order arps with (no cash deals on a website)
im swapping to a z6 so the cam characteristics match the shorter gears on my new tranny.


the build makes sense in my head i dont need someone who just wants to try and make me look stupid answering and providing no help... i found the problem on my own

the bolts from the z6 are about 1/2 an inch longer than the ones from the y8 so when i bought the bolts for the z6 they bottomed out in the y8 block.. went to honda got y8 bolts instead i think ill be fine
 

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How much did the y8 bolts cost you? I know if you're doing a (y8 block/z6 head) combo you'll need (9) y8 head bolts and (1) z6 head bolt for the back left corner by the vtec solenoid.

I have been searching high and low for a set of used y8 head bolts but it's been impossible, the dealership is my last option so I'm just curious on the price or where you got yours.
 

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With the ARP stud issue your having..... the back left head stud has to be either the y7 or z6 stud( cant remeber which one), im pretty sure its the y7 because the hole drilled into the block is smaller than the rest for some reason. Thats just how they made em'. Your best bet is to get the NAMED BRAND ARP y7 z6 combo. Follow the diagram it comes with and you sould be set.
 
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