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allwheeldriveturboboxer
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
here are some links to other threads where this was discussed-

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=20349

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=33252

this is a nice one by Pata http://d-series.org/forums/engine-building/98788-my-y7-y8-intake-manifold-swap-pics.html (added 4/09)

here is something that senior member Klungemonger put together last year-

If you plan to keep the Y7 computer, it's easiest to use a Y8 auto manifold and t/b since the IACV setup is the same. Of course the 5-speed manifold setup works fine too, you just need to block off the IACV opening on the back and swap the throttle rotor & spring over to your Y7 t/b.
If you use the Y8 injectors with the Y7 ecu, you will run rich though so you want to reuse your Y7 rail & injectors. Here's a rundown on how to do it, this is everything I can remember off the top of my head...sorry if it's long-winded!

Here are things to have on hand when you start the project, so you won't have to leave for the auto parts store during the middle of it:
new intake manifold gasket
Y8 manifold brace
about 5ft of 1/4" i.d. hose, suitable for fuel/vapor/coolant use.
about 2ft of 3/8" i.d. hose, same kind of stuff
premixed coolant for aluminum blocks (you're going to lose some!)
*you might want to change PCV valve while manifold is off, it's not easy to get to otherwise.
*if you've got lots of miles and never did fuel filter, nows the time while system is depressurized also.

1) Remove fuse to fuel pump, then start car. When it stalls out, turn it off and remove the negative battery cable. This is to relieve the fuel pressure. Put the fuse back so you don't forget later.

2) Pull out the IAT sensor from the Y7 airbox, remove the box & piping, Also remove the little throttle cable brackets and detach the cable from the t/b and the cable stay.

3) Put some masking tape on the injector branches and mark them 1-2-3-4 so you get them back on the right ones, then pull the plugs. Loosen and remove the fuel hose nut at the fuel rail inlet.Take off the 2 nuts holding the fuel rail on, also I think the harness clips in a couple places on the rail so unhook those clips. Pull the little hose from the regulator to the manifold then lift out the rail/injectors. (If reusing Y7 injectors, install them in the Y8 rail, or just move the Y8 purge solenoid from the Y8 rail to the Y7 rail.)

4) Remove all vacuum lines from the manifold to any other sources. Get some rags and cups handy, now you start unhooking coolant lines! Use some pliers or channel locks to pull the retaining clips down the hoses a bit, then start pulling the hoses off. Splash! Just try not to get the coolant into the injector holes.

5) Using the outside-in pattern, loosen & remove the bolts holding the manifold to the head. There's one bolt on the underside of the manifold that holds the brace onto it, I think it's an 12mm. Grope around for it and remove that too. The manifold should be able to come right out now.

6) remove the old gasket, without gouging the surface underneath. This is tedious and irritating, at least for me it was. It's easy to scratch the head, so if you've got some chemical to soften the gasket up that would be good. Remove wiring clips from the manifold brace, take the brace out too.

7) Get your new PCV valve ready by installing the 3/8" hose & clamp on it. Don't put it in yet...first, remove the small hose from the water pipe right near the PCV (this one is a gusher!) Have a stretch of 1/4" hose ready (15-18") ready to put on immediately. This coolant line will go to the IACV on the Y8 auto t/b, just like it did with your Y7.

8. If the head is cleaned up, put your new mani-gasket on and slide the head into place. Hand snug the bolts up, then start torquing them properly in order. Once it's tight, put the Y8 brace in place and tighten it to the manifold first, then tighten the bolts to the block. If you have a header or downpipe made for Y8, you should get an exhaust support brace for the Y8, it is held on under the manifold brace by the same bolts. It is oriented properly for the support bracket you see by the header collector area on Y8. Y7 is different for some reason.

9) Reconnect the fat coolant line, run a new piece of 1/4" from the IACV to the small nipple that comes off the big one. Cut the new coolant line coming from the pipe under the mani to proper length and connect it to the other IACV nipple.

10) Lightly oil the rubber injector seats, then with the injectors already in the rail, install the rail with injector connectors facing up. Tighten it down, then connect the fuel supply line and tighten it up (don't forget the washer).

11) Use another length of 1/4" hose to run from your purge cannister to the purge solenoid on the rail, then connect the other end of the PCS to the medium sized port under the larger one on the front of the manifold. the upper one is for the PCV 3/8" hose. Now push the PCV down through the hole by the middle manifold nut, go underneath and connect it to the black box. Back up top, route the PCV hose to fit the port & cut to length.

12) I think all the wiring will reconnect without modification except the PCS connector, you might have to lengthen it by 6-8". Reattach the tiny hose from regulator to the little port right near the t/b. Use a small piece of that little hose with a screw in it (or just some silicone) to block off the cruise control vac port on the back driver side of the manifold. Connect the brake booster hose to the big port on back.

13) Plug the wiring back in, make sure you don't mix up the MAP & TPS, they are the same kind of connector. I marked all connectors before removing them just to be sure.

14) Install the cable into the throttle rotor, insert it into the stay, & tighten it up solid with 2 12mm wrenches. Make sure there's no slack but that the rotor isn't open at all when not stepping on the gas.

15) After double checking to make sure everything is hooked up, and you have not crossed and coolant/vac lines, reconnect the battery cable and crank it over. It will take a few seconds to pressurize the fuel system again.

I think that's everything, it should make sense when you are looking it all over and start working on it, this should be a good guide. Hope it helps!
 

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Nice writeup! One thing... PICS!
 
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thank you alot. did u do this cause u saw me asking every one the annoying question. lol sorry. thanks though
 

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allwheeldriveturboboxer
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Discussion Starter #6
civicsurfer said:
thank you alot. did u do this cause u saw me asking every one the annoying question. lol sorry. thanks though
haha...nah. i just saw it coming up alot in a short span of time, it was pretty unusual, actually. i could not recall if there was a write-up on it, so i just put this one together using klunge's as a base.
 

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allwheeldriveturboboxer
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Discussion Starter #8
hard to say, but if done correctly and tuned a bit, there should be an increase in power...feeling power is hard to say because seat of the pants can think there is a power gain, but in reality many times its a lag from either being out of tune or a mismatch in parts...then the lag disappears because the tune becomes more correct at a certain rpm and you feel that correction so you are like 'wow i feel a power increase', but really it's not an increase overall at all.
for instance...my setup with vtec set at 5400 and tuned for that feels faster than it does with the proper settings/ tune that produced the graph in my signature- smooth and dip free with vtec @ about 5800. This is because the big cam coming on too early will give a lag...then when it hits the rpm it likes it'll make the power it should and you feel a surge.
 

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one question , im preparing to do that kind of swap into a similar engine (D14A4) ,and i have a doubt that is: there is any way to modify de Y7 rotor to use in the horizontal intake?
 
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civicsurfer said:
will u feel more pull at all??? from the new intake manifold being installed will u feel any more power?
My buddy has a cheap intake, megan header, and rsr? exhaust (not sure) and he put the y8 mani on his head and it DEFINATLY pulled. we've got the same car, same motor, and his actually PULLS compared to mine. If you've got the mani, do it, easy as hell and totally worth it. Unless of course you dont want to, then sell me the y8 mani!:honda:
 

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I did this swap, but im having a hard time figuring out why the idle is high when the A/C is on. It idles at about 1500 rpm
 

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it idles at about 600-700... not too high, if anything, that might be kinda low.. but basically, idles the same as when it was completely stock
 

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about 1500, then goes down to normal... like normal ... btw, no CELs, overheating or anything bad really.. just idles high when its on... weirdest thing ever
 

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Great thread! This thread and some searching have helped me out alot today. I've got a JDM z6 mani that I'll be putting on my y7. I would have gone with a y8 or aftermarket mani, but this one was FREE! Free parts rock, even if they take a little doin to make work.

There is just one thing I wasn't able to clear up in my searching:

Are there any issues with the bracing of the z6 manifold in a 2000 hatchback with a y7? Obviously a y8 mani is easy because it uses the y8 brace from an ex, duh. Is there a similar brace in the 5th gen's with the z6? I'm assuming there is, so do I rob it from a 5th gen? Or will a y8 brace work better with the engine compartment's geometry, assuming the mounting bracket on the z6 manifold is the same as a y8 mani? I'm not scared of a little bit of ghetto fabing either, lol, as long as I know where to start.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, my 2000 hatch's engine bay is the only engine bay I'm familiar with. Sorry for the long post. I'm infamous for being superfluously verbose at times. ;)
 

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one question , im preparing to do that kind of swap into a similar engine (D14A4) ,and i have a doubt that is: there is any way to modify de Y7 rotor to use in the horizontal intake?
Can anyone answer this??? Can I use my Y7 rotor? If not what rotors will work besides the obvious?

AND did people who have done this swap reuse there coolant hoses? Any problems?
 
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