I have an idea on what to do as far as alignment. Its the height that has be confused... Its a 91 Hatch 350lb front 250lb rear. Tires are ecsta XS.Need more info.
Chassis? Spring rates? Bars? TIRES?
Even then, an answer will only get you in the ballpark. There are no magic numbers for suspension setup
I prefer to measure from wheel center to top of the wheel arch, that way it takes the tire size from the measurement and measures only the suspension position.
If you are racing in some sort of sanctioned event though, they most likely have a rule regarding minimum height (from the lowest point on the car) so that will be you lower limit. So if you are building the car to race, the rulebook should be your first stop before, well, anything. Don't even look at the car until you read the rulebook cover to cover. If you're just doing HPDEs or something of the like then obviously things are wide open.
Based on your low-ish spring rates, tire selection, and generality of the question I'm going to assume it's the latter and that you're just getting your feet wet. With those rates you'll need to keep it up a little higher, I would say don't go any lower than ~12.5" from wheel center to fender lip. You'll have to play with it to get it right based on how smooth your track is and how much cornering force you're generating, but the important thing is to keep it off the bumpstops for the most part. You're ore likely to end up too low than too high.
For camber, start with ~ -2.5* front and -2* rear. You don't need a ton of static camber since you are not on r-comps and are on a dwb suspension that has dynamic camber. Adjust as needed by checking tire temps until you are relatively even across the surface of the tire.
For toe, start with zero. You can play with it in small increments (+/- 1/16") to really fine tune the feel of the car. Toe is, in my opinion, the most subjective area of adjustment but is also the most effective for getting that last bit of "just right" for the driver.
Also remember that you have to check the alignment (especially toe) EVERY TIME that you change the ride height, as it's dynamic. Check and adjust in the order you see above... ride height, then camber, then toe.
Have fun and don't worry about it too much. Take notes on every thing you change and record how it affects the car and on what parts of the track. As you progress you'll learn what works and where.
Lastly, if you decide to get serious... the best mod you can buy is a good datalogging setup, ie AIM/Race Technology/Racepak/etc. Having numbers is always the fastest route to knowing what works.
The car is not streetable. This is not a case of me spinning out and blaming the car. Im simply trying to figure out what to set alignment at once I get it towed to a shop. I have driven on the track before, my current track car is a 1993 Z28 Camaro which I can manage pretty well. I dont think driving a 1700lb FWD Civic is going to be an issue requiring amazing driver skill, im just trying to find decent grip and have fun :TU:Fast driver mod is the best way to go about these sorts of things....that and corner balancing
What chassis is this in? A dwb 92 - 00 Honda running 700 - 1000lbs out back seems like a lot. I only say this because on the 02 - 05 civic and 02 - 06 rsx, 700 - 1000lbs is the norm, but that's due to the rear suspension geometry being garbage.Koni double adjustables, 5.5-6" ride height, 550-700 front springs, 700-1000 rear springs, 32mm rear sway bar, change tube thickness and lever ratio as needed. Hoosier A6's...
Basic Honda SCCA/NASA setup that my customers run...
88-2000...the chassis you have mentioned are JUNK :taz:What chassis is this in? A dwb 92 - 00 Honda running 700 - 1000lbs out back seems like a lot. I only say this because on the 02 - 05 civic and 02 - 06 rsx, 700 - 1000lbs is the norm, but that's due to the rear suspension geometry being garbage.
I understand the need to rotate the rear though so it makes sense.
Good info guys.