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An H-brace won't do anything for wheel hop. I've had one on for years, and I still have wheel hop. You need to stiffen the front trans mounts or add traction bars.
 

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My very post was used on you. I have been a member on this site for a while just soaking in tons of info, and this post made me want to commment. NJ, people like you keep these kindof boards alive.. Keep up the good work. I very much appreciate it.
 

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I only have one problem. About when it says to decrease oversteer, to add a rear sway bar.

This is a quote from the first post:
"oversteer can be mellowed out by useing a rear sway bar"

If you have oversteer without a sway bar, you definitely don't want to add one. Large sway bars create oversteer, which is what most Honda owners want, as all are understeer biased since they are considered easier to control in everyday driving circumstances.

If I read it wrong, ignore this post. I'm pretty sure I read it correctly though.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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sway bar = third spring, more overall spring rate = looser on that end. Really you want a SMALL rear sway bar, coilovers with tender springs. That way the inside rear stays in contact instead of doing the VW 3 legged pose.

Rubber tires don't work well when they are not touching pavement.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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sway bar = third spring, more overall spring rate = looser on that end. Really you want a SMALL rear sway bar, coilovers with tender springs. That way the inside rear stays in contact instead of doing the VW 3 legged pose.

Rubber tires don't work well when they are not touching pavement.
cocking a wheel turns harder, doesn't it?
rear wheels aren't helping you turn, they're dragging along
 

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sway bar = third spring, more overall spring rate = looser on that end. Really you want a SMALL rear sway bar, coilovers with tender springs. That way the inside rear stays in contact instead of doing the VW 3 legged pose.

Rubber tires don't work well when they are not touching pavement.
Try and explain a little more if I don't get this right.

So you want spring/coilovers with a softer rate, so more contact. You want a smaller sway bar so it acts as a "third spring," in order to keep more contact.

So a larger sway bar with stiffer springs, pretty much just throws the car out sideways...

Okay I think I got it. Stiff springs and big sway FTW!
*I do it because it's fun lol.
 

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ive just gone from having no swaybar on the rear of my EG, which previously tended to overstear a little bit when pushed realy hard.

i now have a 20mm rear swaybar installed, and i have masses of understear.

the way i look at is
bigger front swaybar = looser in the rear
bigger rear swaybar = looser in the front

so what i have to do now to minimise the understear is get a bigger front swaybar, correct?
 

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I got a ? about the bushings...im trying to install some on my 95 civic, the front lower control arm bushing....it looks as if there is a metal sleeve in there after i burned away the old bushing...and reason i think this..my bushings will not come close to fitting inside the damn hole...wtf???? does that sleeve come out? or is it just the rubber that comes out that i already burnt out?
 

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I didnt see anything about changing camber when you lower a car... is it necessary to change the camber once lowered or can you just drive with whatever you end up with?
 
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