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Hi, everyone.

My name is Ben, and I just joined the D-Series.org community. This is my first post. Anyway, I have been looking at possibilities for forced induction on my D16Y8. I really wanted to supercharge at first with a JRSC at around 10psi on around 10.2:1 comp pistons and whatnot.

Let me CLARIFY, I am looking towards companies like IPT for their racing rebuild kits for the trans, as well as high stall TQC and trans cooler. I want to do this right. And so, I am seeking advice from you guys here and see what everyone's educated opinions are.

I have also been looking at doing a small turbo-larger PSI to achieve a closer to supercharged "power band" although it seems more often than not this is not easily achievable. I am looking for around 250bhp, as that seems safest for the built auto. I've been told that both it, and the high stall can hold up to 400, but I believe more than double the power of what I am currently running should be PLENTY.

I plan on tracking the car, I live just a couple of hours from Road Atlanta and already have plans to try it out. I do not want to drag race the car by any means, I have built the exterior with aero, and lots of it. I'll be sure to post a picture eventually.

Thanks!
 

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if you plan on tracking the car with an automatic, skip the forced induction goals unless you want to get VERY familiar with swapping auto trannies.

Even with a total rebuild, the D series transmissions simply are not made to deal with the extreme heat buildup that track use WILL cause.

My d16y7 auto tranny is the same as yours, outside of the gearing difference.

I can heat it up enough to slip with a 75whp d16y7 behind it. That is with a transmission cooler, an initial flush back in March 2015, and MONTHLY drain and refills of the tranny fluid.

If you want extra performance and not have to put the car on jackstands after every race, drop in an OBD2 integra auto setup. it DOES fit, do not let anyone fool you. I have personally done it for a disabled buddy of mine.


once you do that, you are in the hole at least 3 grand, as even a 1k parts car will still need X amount of money dropped for maintenance items like timing belt, water pump, fluids, gaskets, bolts, etc.. in order to be reliable and guaranteed for at least a few track sessions.



I highly recommend you simply drop some weight off the car, get lighter rims and tires, and find a nice suspension setup, and go have fun.

Install a tranny cooler, and leave the engine and transmission alone.


Learn the car, learn what it really needs, and go from there.


while you are busy learning how to race on a track, keep your eyes out for an actual track worthy car. an automatic civic is NOT worthy, unless you are willing to spend over 5 grand getting it set up. That is not including power adders.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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I would NOT suggest lapping an automatic Honda, the heat will kill it.

The "high stall" convertor is only about 200-300 rpm higher than stock, not really that much. Now you could fit and older unit and really gain a higher stall, but OBD-2 might not been happy about that.

I have plenty of friends in ATL area, only been there twice this year. From up on the hill looking down on Pro Paddock and front stretch....

 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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it would be easier and cheaper to go turbo build. a 50 trim turbo will get you the 250hp you want. do a bunch of reading on the turbo builds.

also, not sure this is supposed to be in force induction, since youre asking trans questions. moving
 

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I seriously would not be comfortable with even 150whp on my transmission. When its at operating temp and not being drivne hard, it acts like its brand new and been driven nicely. 10 minutes after driving hard, it acts like its done half a million miles
 

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There is adjustment. same style as all the 3rd-7th gen civics.

mine was a bit long, as indicated by the manual when I did it last year after the trans flush and still having some issue.

Properly adjusting the cable did make a positive impact, and its easy since my center console is broken and has no mounting screws lol
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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88-95 have the adjustment in the engine compartment. The 91 EX with Y8 swap, when I bought it would get mushy shifts when hot, esp. in stop and go traffic. 15 minutes of adjustments and it would bark the tires on 1-2 full throttle shifts.

OK, they were snow tires in the summer heat. Still very sticky but squirmy in the curves.
 

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97 honda coupe
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if you really want to go ahead with the auto your going to need to make your own parts or hook up with bigtuna if hes still lurking here.

Heat buildup is the number 1 cause of failures, figure out how to get the heat out of the most problematic areas and what those areas are exactly and you might have something. That and machine/design your own clutch drums to accept more frictions. Hopefully everything else is strong enough. One of the big issues with honda auto's is the fact that everything is under the trans cover. its not like a 4l80e where you can just drop the pan and remove the valve body. If you want to do testing you better get good at removing transmissions and cracking cases, and hopefully you narrow down the problem after you have it apart.
 

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93 maybe 94 coupe
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Supercharging and auto is a waste because u don't need the instant response. A big turbo will spool against the converter if both are correct for the application, and once you reach boost there's no closing the throttle between shifts so full boost after each shift. And that feels awesome. U have lag once, then power everywhere.

As for durability listen to these trans guys. Wouldn't shock me if u ad to convert to a beefier tranny, I did on my 84 lebaron. It broke 25$ k-car trannies like crazy but the minivan variant was solid.

Also don't track an auto lol dragstrips are the domain of both big turbo and automatic tranny supremecy.
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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Supercharging and auto is a waste because u don't need the instant response.
Why would you not want instant throttle response and a tabletop torque curve if you're running it on the track? He said he doesn't want to take it to the strip so I assume he's talking about road racing or autocross, both of which would benefit from the throttle response and the torque curve of a supercharger.

Of course I'm biased because I'm heavily invested in a way-too-expensive supercharger build.

Small turbos will get your close to the same kind of torque curve of a supercharger like others are saying. Minimize the amount of intercooler piping as much as possible to reduce lag.
 

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93 maybe 94 coupe
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Dude w a manual tranny I totally agree, and I must've missed where he said drag didn't matter which sucks cause that's all I know w turbos and autos. No matter how quick the k car became I would never have expected it to go willingly around a bend at speed

One top tip though, if u don't run ac get a condenser and bolt it in to run as a tranny cooler, they're freaking huge. Then run it back through the stock one in the radiator to keep from overcooling the system
 

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evo, you miss the fact that the D and B series automatics absolutely HATE it when you hold the throttle during shifts.

I still say a good NA build that can still run on the stock ecu is the best bet for nbow.

if mroe power is desired, swap to the big blck 4 bangers like the H or F series for cheapness, or throw in an automatic K24 and enjoy over 200hp all the time with no loss of reliability
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Honda slushies are not like other "normal" autotragics.

Overcool the trans fluid, then suck heat out of the cooling system to put is back into the transmission?

I will say this, unlocking the converter to allow the motor to rev up just a bit against the converter, which spools the turbo.....wait the Supra guys already know about that :)
 
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