Honda D Series Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
1995 Civic EX
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, new user here and completely new to Hondas, although I've done my share of wrenching on many different cars. I've been reading through this forum for a few days but I have a sort of specific situation so I was hoping for some help.

I just picked up a 1995 Civic EX for a grand and my wife and I are building it to participate in Grassroots Motorsports' 2020 challenge, which is a thing they do every year where you buy and build a race car for a total of 2 grand. With the cost of the car and a few parts I've purchased, I have about $800 remaining to buy suspension and finish tweaking the engine. So far I have a cheap eBay header and intake coming in the mail, and I've been watching Facebook marketplace hoping to find a deal on a used cat back exhaust. I'm planning on boring out the throttle body as much as safely possible and I'm going to try my hand at gasket matching and possibly porting the intake manifold. Also, the car is up to date on all routine maintenance. Motor mounts will be filled with hard polyurethane. Interior will be mostly stripped. I have to admit, building up a sport compact car for as cheap as possible gives me memories of being a teenager again, haha. I've seen some super cheap turbo parts for sale but I don't know anything about building or tuning turbo engines so I would prefer to avoid that for now. I just want to safely boost my horsepower as much as possible for as cheap as possible, and I don't care about streetability.

So are there any things I can do for free or dirt cheap to the D16Z6? I know Hondas of this vintage have a lot of interchangeable parts - can I pick up anything from a junkyard for cheap to improve the power of this engine? Are there any options for a larger factory camshaft? Better intake manifold? I've seen some mention of the Y8 (I think that one) intake manifold, is that a direct swap? If I can find a steal on some A1 pistons I might try to squeeze that in the budget. Cruise control will be removed, we're planning on moving to Florida later this year so I'm keeping the A/C. I have yet to decide on keeping the power steering - I'll be running 225/45R15 Hoosiers for autocrosses, so power steering might be welcomed. I have a big junkyard near me and I'm scouring the internet, so please let me know anything that would help. Thanks!
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
5,289 Posts

my buddy's Miata. he did the grassroots 2018. ex might be a little heavy with all the powered glass......sell it to me for 1,001$ and got get yourself an integra without the power options lol
 

·
Registered
1995 Civic EX
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would definitely prefer an integra with a B18, but I'm just making the best of what I have. The sunroof will be removed and replaced with lexan or clear polycarbonate, and the inside of the doors, underside of the hood, and everywhere I can think of will be swiss cheesed. I'll get it as light as possible. I'm just hoping for a bump in power. Or at least some rear disc brakes.
 

·
Registered
1995 Civic EX
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I picked up a spare cylinder head and intake manifold for the Z6 and I'll be doing some mild porting on them, and right now I'm looking into getting a Delta 272 cam. Bang for the buck, right there. Now I just need to learn about tuning it and chipping the ECU.
 

·
Registered
'93 / '95 Del Sol Si - '95 DX Coupe - '98 Civic Hatch - '00 Accord EX F23 Manual
Joined
·
2,280 Posts
You could chip the ECU with very little money and use free tuning software to get more out of it after intake / header / exhaust.

You'll see the most gains with a tune. Even a mediocre tune.

I assembled a wideband setup for my Z6 this last winter for very little money. I bought a WB Wideband D2 controller / harness and bought the Bosch 4.2 wideband o2 sensor on eBay for cheap. I already had a 4.9 from my other build but the D2 unit only runs on the 4.2.

Honeslty, I have zero complaints about the D2 unit. It has given me zero headaches so far (knock on wood). And the Bosch sensor has been in the car for six months.

You could pick up a Blox or Crower cam for between $225 - $275 online

I think I picked up the D2 unit for 70 bucks and paid around 30 - 35 bucks for the wideband o2 sensor.

So for a total of around 375 bucks, you could bring the engine to life.

This is where you'd see the most gains if you stay NA.
 

·
Registered
1995 Civic EX
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've been looking at the 272 cam from Delta. $120 and done, and it works with stock springs/retainers etc. I definitely am interested in chipping and tuning the ECU, but that's completely new territory for me. I would need pretty much a step by step. I've been following the build on a different forum but so far this is about where I'm at:
intake
header
exhaust
interior mostly gutted (everything behind the front seats, center console, glove box)
repainted to white (I don't like black cars, too hot)
removed cruise control
short throw shifter and aluminum shifter mount
chassis sound deadening scraped off
about a million rusted bolts and nuts replaced, 30 pounds of pollen, old pine needles, and dirt removed from all the cracks and crevices
E30 bottlecap rims painted black center/silver lip, picked them up for $60, just need them installed. Those are my daily driver wheels.
Konig Helium 15X6.5", planning on using these as my race wheels, wrapped in 225/45R15
Eibach Sportline springs (got them for $20), sitting in a box waiting for shocks.
Spare D16Z6 head and intake, planning on porting these when I get an opportunity
Spare Z6 throttle body, plan on opening it up as much as possible.
Integra rear sway bar, waiting for install
rear camber arms, waiting for install along with springs/shocks

Right now I'm at about $1520 total including the price of the car. I need to sell some stock parts off to recoup some money into the budget. I figure selling a stock Z6 head and intake manifold/TB should net me a few hundred, then I'll have enough for some really good shocks.

For now the car is slightly on pause, as The Wife and I are moving down to south Florida in about a month and a half. So no more mods other than having my E30 bottlecaps installed and probably a battery shutoff switch, and I'm going to use it for some Postmates deliveries for a few extra bucks during that time, then time for the big move. For this year I doubt I'll do much more, power-wise, but that'll give me plenty of time to build a spare ported head with a big cam, and ported intake manifold to bolt on next year. I could turbo it or swap it or whatever but I kinda like the thought of a cheap racecar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Here is what i'd do. hit the junk yards get you a d16y8 intake and exhaust manifold (scatch off your ebay header from the budget) while your there grab a b18b throttle body and make sure to hog open the y8 manifold to match the TB and a set of EP3 injectors and with pigtails (there 310 cc if my memory serves me correctly)

If your already going to port the head make sure to concentrate on the bowls (below the valve seats, and short side radius. You shouldn't need to touch the ports themselves much if any(just a gasket match in my opinion)

Since you plan to swap heads run a oem head gasket and use only the top and bottom layer of the HG and get a set of ARP head studs. Copper spray it when going back together. and bump tq to 70-75 ft/lbs (still do in steps)

Since your gonna crack it open may as well slap in a set of cheap P29 pistons and rings and some arp rod bolts.

Doing a 2 layer hg with P29's will get compression in the mid 12:1's

Get a chip kit from xenocron or the like, socket that bad boy, download Crome for free, Buy some BKR7e plugs and get to street tuning on E85. Make sure to change the map for 310cc injectors and add ~30% fuel across the whole map and pull 2-3 degree's of timing. If you can borrow a wideband this would be great or get a wideband "off the budget" to keep in your tool box is also another route to go. Dial it in to .8-.85 lambda then start adding timing. When you get close throw in a fresh plug on 2 or 3 (they run leaner typically) Then add timing till the rainbow of heat is right at the bend of the ground strap. You want to do WOT pull then shut the vehicle off and coast off the road then check. Do this with a fresh plug each pull after you've gotten close. you can keep them to replace down the road so no major loss.

If you have enough for a nice cam and springs then that would help also but it's kinda an all or none affair. Not sure how well the cheap cam gears hold up but that could buy you a little bit of Rpm by retarding the cam a few degree's if the cam/springs it out of the picture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
one thing I did forget as I've owned them forever and didn't really think about it is you'll need either a chip burner and or an emulator like the moates ostrich to flash the ecu/chip to make said adjustments. I've been out of the game for some time (at least a decade) so not sure how many people have these things laying around that you may be able to borrow or have them come over and help you with the tuning. Some times you can get away cheap for some lunch and a 30 pack. :D
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top