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Discussion Starter #1
SUBS WATTAGE RMS VS DB???? POWER? LOUDER?
Im learning on reading subwoofer sound system specs.
I was talking to a friend about stereo .
He expains to me like RMS wattage VS sensivity DB power wattage.

explains like that wattage rms is like example of a cars miles per gallon and sensitive DB decibels is like horsepower a car can make?

i got also a question currently own 2016 10 inch dual subs comp rs which is rated @800RMS wattage with output of 94.6 DB check the website kicker.com
I've tried posting the site on here but couldn't post sites.

also an example like a single T1D412 rockford 4 ohm @800rms wattage with output of sensitive 85 DB from a website specs i got

or an alpine SWR-12d4 type r 12 inch 4 ohm 1000 rms wattage with output sensitivity of only 84.9 DB

he says like the ohm heat wattage how much gas it takes to run the engine or subwoofer . so will the two 2016 comp rs dual 10s rated 2 ohm @800rms wattage with 94.6 dB Be louder than the Rockford or the alpine type r single 12s?
at output @ rms?

also the guy owns a shop told me this check the DB if u want louder bass. so I'm guessing i have louder subs db wise than the other brands?
is this true i wanna know?
please let me know

im also looking to get a amp for a 2 ohm @800rms which would be good?
is this true? about DB. decibels?
 

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wattage means nothing for musical ability. NOTHING.

look at the efficiency rating. get something that has 90db or higher.

my 450rms 96.1 db subs shit all over anything the budget subwoofer world has to offer even upwards of 1200rms
 

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Discussion Starter #3
wattage means nothing for musical ability. NOTHING.

look at the efficiency rating. get something that has 90db or higher.

my 450rms 96.1 db subs shit all over anything the budget subwoofer world has to offer even upwards of 1200rms
cool dam thats true than.
how what kinda sub you are running with 450rms with 96.1 rating?
 

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old school Fusions back when the entire lineup was competition only.


12's that are as clear as 10s and hard as 15s when in the proper box and given access to at least 1000rms to keep voltage droop at a minimum
 

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In my world:
-dB is closer to quantifying loudness
-The sensitivity will give you a better idea of the sound quality produced
-RMS gives the power

The biggest thing to consider is budget and box

I've build a lot of boxes/set ups over the years, and depending on what type of music / response you want for the subs; it will totally change how and what you pick for your set up

What are you looking for? Music and bass wise
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In my world:
-dB is closer to quantifying loudness
-The sensitivity will give you a better idea of the sound quality produced
-RMS gives the power

The biggest thing to consider is budget and box

I've build a lot of boxes/set ups over the years, and depending on what type of music / response you want for the subs; it will totally change how and what you pick for your set up

What are you looking for? Music and bass wise
I like listening to a lot of rap/hiphop/dubstep etc/sometimes metal/rock/ reggae roots/ mostly everything and anything.

but mainly i want to go loud like boom deep especially on a day after work driving home. want that bass vibration. I've had a single type r alpine 12s inch 2 ohm with a 500RMS AMP. but i think i want more loud. I've picked up a dual 10 kicker comp rs 2016 loaded box. and hoping it will be louder than what I've had recent. its 2 ohm 800rms @96.5db i think what the website says. i made a mistake on the op I've posted.
is this good dual sub what best amp should i run i assume 800rms i should go for an amp.
currently running a tma amp 500rms i think it can go louder. whats the safest amp i can run that will go very loud. I'm also in a process in braking it in. need to know what best amp can run with this dual 10 subs i want it to pound loud.
 

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Power rating means shit. The cleaner the power, the better. Distortion kills speakers blah blah blah. Like the second post said. Look at the efficiency rating.
 

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if you have a wide range of music, stick with a pair of 10s or go for a trio of 8s.

if you want to experiment, use the Lanzar branded subs, I personallyhave used them many times to experiment, and they actually are not too bad of quality.

I had 4 of their OPT 12's and they were actually able to play some solid 500Hz notes without complaining, and with a good box able to regularly dip down below 45Hz without seperating the cones
 

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Like most people have been saying. You want quality for what your music and demands will be.
RMS power is always the number I look at. But also keep in mind keeping the wattage to them while cranked up.
The amplifier and setup will only produce optimum a sound and bass if power is there. Want to keep close to constant 14.4 volt
What will you be putting all this in?

Also box does play a key role too, I would have one custom made for your purposes and subs. Like by how much air space each requires and then have ports tuned for your listening preferences.

My last setup wasn't stupid loud but super great crisp bass at most music types.
Single 12inch diamond audio M6
Dual 4ohm
PPI 400 rms amp
In a custom box dual chamber ported,
One port tuned 60 hz
One port tuned at 34hz
 

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For question about a good amplifier to use, I have always seen good and heard good about the newer JL audio stuff.
 

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MTX Jackhammer. 22 inches of massive base. but you would need to add 2 alternators and 6 batteries and an aluminum 1 inch thick box completely wielded up to handle it! Oh and be prepared to have the air sucked out of your lungs if you sit next to it for too long. :devil:

But in all seriousness, Go with what will work for your vehicle type. I've found that differ subs and setups don't behave the same way in different vehicles due to the construction and acoustics of a car.
 

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<<-----NOT AN AUDIO EXPERT

Pay attention to what hoove said, i moved my alpine system that sounded great in the crown vic to the civic and its....well its not as versatile. I never had to fiddle w settings to get even performance across genres in the big car, but in the civic i constantly have to adjust my equalizer when pandora plays something different from the last 3 songs.

It may be i havent gotten the amp settings at their best levels yet but i cant run zero low bass to the cab like i did in the cv and maintain full sound at low volumes.

Then when it gets louder the bass going to the cab speakers is too much and i have to activate the hpf which makes it sound great, but next time the baby is in the car i gotta get in the trunk and turn it off... kinda wish i had gone to some shows and checked out some installs so id know what works well like some of u have found.

On a side note the same setup is also awesome in an 89 trooper, so its gotta be the civics acoustics. Small trunk perhaps?
 

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Most likely the heavier insulation in the crown vic and the trooper play a significant role as well.
 

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insulation helps clean up the sound a lot, but acoustics like glass versus metal play a roll.

Kinda the reason why hatchbacks tend to get awy with smaller bass setups for similar audio performance.


Also why a set of amplified 6x9s do so goddamn well in the civic coupes lol
 
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