Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
1992 cx, 1995 dx
Joined
·
983 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
How hard is it to put a d17 crank in a d16 block and keep lets say a z6 oil pump and pulley? Will this effect crank snout machining it down like that??? what are the rod options??? Piston options??? And is there any block notching are girdle grinding???
 

·
Registered
a hatch
Joined
·
1,423 Posts
I really would rather you keep the d16 as is or buy something bigger (ls or b20)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,661 Posts

·
Registered
a hatch
Joined
·
1,423 Posts
Hah^ youd say the same thing to some one who hasn't done one/even know where to start.
Just looking to start shit again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,661 Posts
Hah^ youd say the same thing to some one who hasn't done one/even know where to start.
Just looking to start shit again
b20 swaps = check
b18 swaps = check
h22 swaps = check
build d16 = check
build b18 = check
semi built f22 = check
built 302s = check
semi build duramax = check

interest in a d18 build? nah, not really. but the info i placed above is all the info he will need for the build up. not know where to start huh? according to the link, it looks like i would if i was going with that build up ;).

what was your advice to the OP (and other people asking about making power) again? oh yeah, swap to a b-series.. congrats, you should look at the site name. its not lets-recommend-a-b-series-swap-just-like-all-the-tools-on-H-T-while-not-answering-the-question.org, its d-series.org. where we like the d-series and discuss topics dealing with making them better.
 

·
Registered
a hatch
Joined
·
1,423 Posts
Didn't recommend a b swap, just saying that if you want higher displacement and don't know what your doing, go that route.


Well there you go theres the info Good luck (if only it ways that easy...as easy as cooling someone a "tool")


Sorry for the jack
 

·
Classic Man
Civic
Joined
·
16,355 Posts
Didn't recommend a b swap, just saying that if you want higher displacement and don't know what your doing, go that route.


Well there you go theres the info Good luck (if only it ways that easy...as easy as cooling someone a "tool")


Sorry for the jack
do you think we would know what Bisimoto is, if he followed that logic building his NA CRX? i dont think so.
 

·
Registered
a hatch
Joined
·
1,423 Posts
I did dig myself a hole here, but stroking isn't all that is hyped up to be. Before the 383 was popular/mass produced (crate engines) many people would refrain from going that route and would rather bore it (IIRC Bisi's CRX). Im all for innovation, but sometimes the tried and true (bore in the D series case) is better. I really feel that I made myself sound stupid, but hey, thats what happens when your on forums late at night


Also, bisi's new motor is an F22a, I should've said that instead of B20, but still, the concept lives
 

·
Classic Man
Civic
Joined
·
16,355 Posts
The more I look at the D18 build thread I like it more and more. That torque curve is sweet. Boost would be sweet on that thing. It all just takes money.
and maybe not even very much if you can get a D17A2 for a good price. :D
 

·
Registered
97 EK coupe
Joined
·
690 Posts
what was your advice to the OP (and other people asking about making power) again? oh yeah, swap to a b-series.. congrats, you should look at the site name. its not lets-recommend-a-b-series-swap-just-like-all-the-tools-on-H-T-while-not-answering-the-question.org, its d-series.org. where we like the d-series and discuss topics dealing with making them better.
OWNED and he speaks the truth about the honda-tech :punk: if you dont have front canards and a b-series then YOUR NOT WELKUME MUTHA FUCKAH!!! GAH IM from cali argh
 

·
Registered
97 EK coupe
Joined
·
690 Posts
and it would be alot easier to have the crank machined to fit the d16 instead of having the block sleeved not too mention the price difference. for machine work youre probly looking at 200-300$
and block notching is a must, there is alot more stroke and the rods wont clear, youll also need to grind down the crank girdle. im building one myself but im having troubles finding a D17 rotating assembly and im not in the mood to buy a complete motor just to gut it.
and also if you shim the crank then the stock D16 oil pump and everything will line up, its basically just trim excess metal and install. its up too you from there what you want too do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
I think 94.4 stroke is good, but I believe is not reliable because there is a lower Rod/Stroke ratio using factory rods. An OEM D16 is 1.52 R/S ratio and the D17 ratio is 1.45.
If you spend some money for custom pistons and rods to achieve 1.52 R/S ratio with 94.4 stroke and big bore you will have a reliable monster D bottom. But using the D17 OEM rods will provide high stress and will kill high end power.

Sincerely!
 

·
Registered
97 EK coupe
Joined
·
690 Posts
I think 94.4 stroke is good, but I believe is not reliable because there is a lower Rod/Stroke ratio using factory rods. An OEM D16 is 1.52 R/S ratio and the D17 ratio is 1.45.
If you spend some money for custom pistons and rods to achieve 1.52 R/S ratio with 94.4 stroke and big bore you will have a reliable monster D bottom. But using the D17 OEM rods will provide high stress and will kill high end power.

Sincerely!
BOOOOOOOOOO get out of here with your math skills
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
Haha that is what I like to do maths. It never fails when using a security factor. I've seen a lot of modifications and a lot of booms. But just using math and making the propper calculations you can have great results with reliability.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top