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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thoughts about how to fix this reasonably easily and cheaply without removing the block?

 

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no matter what, the block should be removed for best cleaning results.

drilling, then cutting threads, then using a helicoil will have shavings go places they should not be.

about the only way of preventing it is to cork that center hole and the offset outlet hole. then MAYBE it will be safe.

Shitty luck dude
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its not my car, coworker was looking for a fun, cheap manual car to play with and work on.

Saw this one for $1100 on craigslist, the above pic is what is keeping the car from running.
1994 Honda Civic for sale
 

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if the body is actually good in person, that isnt a bad price at all. Could part out the turbo stuff, trade the stripped built block for a full stock setup and some cash, and have a decent daily driver for saving money
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was thinking more of cleaning out any shavings with a Qtip, plugging the hole, fixing the threads, either via helicoil or some other method, then dumping in several quarts of cheap oil and turning it over with the dizzy unplugged to flush out any possible metal dust without the filter on, then putting everything back together and run it.
 

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it may minimize the risk, but any and all shavings will still eventually plug something, or worst, cover the pickup screen
 

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The nipple that sticks out the block is threaded into the block. It can be unthreaded very easily.
 

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That center tube is threaded in there?

why would honda put two adapters there for the oil filter?

From the pictures it looks cast, and then drilled/threaded for use.

I have personally never taken a honda block to compelte bare bones, so I have no clue
 

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Oh! Yea the pic didn't load when I looked at it last. Looks like there is some really good threads at the very end, can the nipple reach all the way in there? Looks like a oil plate was used and over tightened and pulled the threads.
 

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I'm sure JB Weld on a new nipple will work just fine lol
 

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JB Weld or maybe a better epoxy is a good idea. Id recommend a oil filter relocation kit, goal would be to decrease the amount of times you'de be tensioning a oil filter down on the repair.
 

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jb weld is a bad idea as hot oil has a tendency to get under epoxy and lift it. Next time you do your oil change you might remove the stud with the filter, again. however this might be the only low-cost option if this engine is not too terribly important to you. make sure you clean the port out well before application. i would suggest devcon epoxy over jb-weld. Also, i would swedge the outside of the bore to make the bore slightly smaller and grab the threads better. like take a punch and dimple the flat part on top and down the sides a little bit at a time while you test fit the stud.

I would suggest tapping to the next size up or a heli-coil. with the engine in the car this is quite the tough place to work with, i suggest putting a cork, foam or something in the back to ensure no alum gets inside the oil channels.

a time sert would be the best option but i dont think the price would be worth it. that one tap/counterbore kit would probably be more than a used block around 250$.

A longer stud would do the trick however finding one in the correct length will be hard, if your back is up against the wall buy a new stud (not an old one, do not reuse the old one) and take it to a machine shop and ask the machinist to make a new one an extra 1/4 longer on the block threaded side.
 

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Some of the other hondas have longer oil filter bolts, I don't remember which one I got for a oil cooler/warmer but I had to cut it down to make it fit
 

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Meat Popsicle
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Pix didnt load the first time.
Yea this is the threads in the block.
Id shop vac it. Then slowly tap it.
Keep a good amount of vasealine on the tap. And shop vac as you go.
Then once its all done drain the oil and.
You're suggesting that he just run an identical sized tap to chase/cut the threads?

Maybe I'm stupid but I've NEVER had that work correctly, even with a tapered tap. I always end up cross threading and fucking it up even more. Unless the threads are only boogered up midway through but that usually isn't the case..
 

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Nearly everyone in this thread has failed to actually look at the picture before posting, amazing.
 

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what? the fact that he needs a helicoil, a bigger filter adapter and fresh threads cut on a bigger hole?

or the fact that some are missing that its the blocks threads jkacked up, and not the filter adapter?
 
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