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· The Great Weldini
91 civic
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As stated, the computer reads lift & rotation only, then drops the info into the hard drive and generates theoretical duration, and open and closing events, all of which are measured in crankshaft degrees which clearly I don't have hooked to computer. ANY REAL ENGINE BUILDER KNOWS THE ONLY TRUE SPECS ARE WHEN THE ENGINE IS ASSEMBLED AND DEGREED. Camshaft centerline to Crankshaft centerline will vary with milling, decking, aftermarket head gasket, none of which can be " computed " with any accuracy. Degreeing this build set cam gear at zero and get your specs.
Install cam straight up, adjust cam gear, readjusting base ignition timing as well to get desired powerband.....

I tend not to overthink things :)
i think this basically states it all. for me i did what Bone stated with my ExoSpeed Stage 3 cams, but the i lashed my them to OEM specs and my Idle wouldn't drop lower than 2k. it wasn't till i received the proper lashing spec that i was able to drop my idle to about 500 rpm once warmed up.

i didn't no degree the cam. we got it to TDC made sure when we tighten the the timing belt tensioner it would be on TDC.(this took some time) and with a small tune on the dyno and adjustment to the fuel maps i put down 135whp. it was the the start nothing more a base on where my engine will begin. nothing more nothing less. so as Bone stated put in and start somewhere.
 

· Registered
00 EJ6 boosted D16Z6, 99 EJ6 bone stock, 04 Ram 1500
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1,568 Posts
Also buzz bomb i appreciate you searching for the cam card but it says it for a Vtec, i shall rep you(if i can), Thanks man.

Lee.
sorry, but yes, mine is for d16z6 cam.
I was wondering how vtec would work with carbs.
not saying it couldn't, just not sure how.
good luck with your build:)
 

· Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI / 01 GSR
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3,062 Posts
^^ the more air it pulls the more gas that flows. There will be a slight rich spot on xover but its not to bad. You would jet the main for in vtec
 

· Registered
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4,213 Posts
I don't see how that is relavant. A lot of dumb shits boost stock engines, and otherwise run them incorrectly.

The method used to modify the cam for performance applications is inviable.
 

· Registered
94 Integra
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1,890 Posts
And using stock cast-iron NA header for a turbo manifold is also inviable. Yet 15yrs of RHMT history and over a decade here on DSO has more examples of this "HF" impossibility than I can count...

The reason it's relevant is because somehow their process is indeed working for people. And the most viable methods conversely are NOT working for some people, as clearly shown with various "properly made" cams chewing up rockers or flattening lobes. Hell I've seen OEM ITR and H22 Type-S cams with big nasty flat spots. I think the most common denominator has been the shadetree mechanic installing it.

Delta has been around for quite a while, so I think the proof is in the pudding. I find it hard to believe that they could survive in the recent economic climate if all their customers' cams failed. Even 10% would be disastrous for a small company.

I've recently done a 180 on my stance regarding ebay turbos. I know they have limitations, but then again I've seen as many >$1000 Precision units fail as ebay units. The biggest issue is the owner getting lazy or greedy - building a shitty oil feed/drain setup or wanting >15psi every moment of every day.
 

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254 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yo.

I had the car dyno'd on sunday so thought it'd be nice to post my results.

The car made;

116bhp @ 6321 RPM
111Ft/lbs @ 3567 RPM

I also got a wheel horsepower read out which was;

93WHP @ 6172 RPM
97 ft/lbs @3550 RPM

I ended up having the car dyno'd with about 3 degrees advance on the cam, as that is where it ended up matching some of the cam card specs. I did play around with it before i went to the dyno and set it back to zero but i lost power low down and gained nothing up top.

My exhaust set up currently is a DC sports 4-2-1 and a stock honda 1.75" mid pip with no rear silencer. With the right exhaust and adjustment of the AFRs i expect the car to make alot more power, what would be ideal is if could keep peak torque where it is but carry it on further through the revs as it starts to decline straight after it peaks. It feels great down low, very unlike a honda but lacks up top.

I want to go with a custom 2.5" manifold with nice long primaries and a 4-1 merge collector along with a 2.5" cat back.

Just to note all this was achieved on stock honda twin carbs and a vac advance dizzy...
 

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254 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The car isn't tuned no, but its running a mechanical dizzy and carbs so wont be too comparable to a Y8. Also this is a 272 not a 260 on a non vtec bro, so comparing the two wouldn't be too wise.

If anyones interested here is the graph, you can see torque quickly tails off after 4.5k
 

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99 Hatch
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1,753 Posts
The biggest issue I had with my 272 was the amount of base circle removed, IMO it's way too much.

There's no doubt that the cams are inexpensive but the gains are reflective of that. I dropped my 272 in and after tuning the idle range (pulled my lower vac at idle) got to tuning of the WOT range. I sadly didn't need to add much fuel to the tune as compared to the stock Y7 cam. I can't report on the numbers as the car wasn't dyno'd but the final fuel table values are usually quite reflective of overall power (assuming the same AFR is kept). Keeping all this in mind for the ~$200 (IIRC) it's still a decent upgrade....if it wasn't for the lack of base circle.

I switched cam grinders and while the cost is near double per grind the results are truly impressive.
 

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....I switched cam grinders and while the cost is near double per grind the results are truly impressive....
I know this thread is old, but for f**k's sake.. WHOOO did you switch to?
I'm very close to finding an alternative to the 272 Re-grind Delta offers.
All this 'bad news' about them, is certainly pushing me away.
 

· BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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last time dude was here was 2016......bumped a dead thread
 
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