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Eg Sedan
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello there fellas. This is my first post on d-series forums and quite excited for everybody's input in helping me boost my d16y8 on stock internals.

So to start off, I have a 95 honda civic ex with a d16y8 swap. It has been converted to obd1 and I still have the p28 ECU. Not sure if it is chipped or not.
I have been doing research for many months now and building a budget for my build. At first my plans were to fully build my engine, eagle rods wiseco pistons, crower stage 2 cam, fully built head, stage 4 clutch, so on and so forth. (keep in mind I had plans of capping my build at 8k.)

However I have changed my mind due to my budget drastically dropping. I would like to keep my budget at 3k or as close to that as possible with still having a reliable boosted engine.

I have been looking at the go-autoworks street kit. As I've noticed this will definitely meet my needs of 150-325 hp.
MY GOAL is only wanting to be around 200 hp, 220 max and 190 min. I know that d series oil pumps (other than z6's), will need to be ported/shimmed so that way I will not spin a bearing. I am only wanting to boost on 9lbs max, lower if 9lbs is unreliable. THIS WILL BE A DD CAR.

MODS I PLAN ON DOING :
ARP head studs/bolts
Cometic Head Gasket
Oil pump port/shim

QUESTIONS I HAVE SO FAR (will update) :

Is the only thing I need to do before removing the ecu to check for a chip is disconnecting the battery terminals? (Dad told me I could fry my ECU by removing it, however he also claimed that if the timing belt snapped it could easily be replaced in which I had a good mechanic friend of mine explain to him that honda's are interference engines)

Can my d16y8 engine handle 9 PSI with only a chipped p28 ecu, bigger injectors, 255 walbro fuel pump, oil pump port/shimmed? I'm also aware that before boosting on stock internals I need a compression/leak down test, which I am looking for someone near me to do this. (Located between Lexington and Ashland, Kentucky)

What is the difference in port/shimming an oil pump? Is a port/shim a combination OR do you do one or the other?

If this build is accurate so far, capping at 220hp, will stock motor mounts handle this or should I upgrade to Innovative motor mounts?

What other cheap but high quality parts will help insure the life of my engine? Acl race bearings?

BUILD STATUS: Still in research
 

· Registered
ek hatch
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199 Posts
ive never heard of it frying if you dont unplug the battery and it has never fried for me.

youll have to chip youre p28 ecu and get it dyno tuned yes bigger injectors and a pump would help, keep it around or below 200 for reliability

id like some rep and my spoon cleaned in return
 

· Premium Member
The Wife and the Car
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2,326 Posts
everybody keeps saying p28 is the worst map for the y8. Then what is the best. Nobody says.
Ectune has a y8 map. Check it out.

On stock internals. I would not push more than 8 PSI.
I got my turbo manifold and Turbo off ebay for 30$.
Have had good luck buying used turbos and rebuilding them.
The key is make sure its water cooled. Make sure its rebuilt and balanced professionally.

If you can afford a go-auto works kit. Then do it. Cause its simpler. And proven to work.
 

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1997 Civic Ex Turbo
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everybody keeps saying p28 is the worst map for the y8. Then what is the best. Nobody says.
Ectune has a y8 map. Check it out.

On stock internals. I would not push more than 8 PSI.
I got my turbo manifold and Turbo off ebay for 30$.
Have had good luck buying used turbos and rebuilding them.
The key is make sure its water cooled. Make sure its rebuilt and balanced professionally.

If you can afford a go-auto works kit. Then do it. Cause its simpler. And proven to work.
I doubt they have a y8 map. Most likely it's a p28 map with the timing adjusted, but I've been wrong before.

I have the Go-Autoworks Street kit and its a very reliable kit that really produces results:
20,000+miles so far without a single issue with the kit
Built engine produce 270whp/224ftlbs currently, on 15psi
15psi by 3600rpm (with the Garrett T3 60 .48ar, oil cooled an lubricated)
Stock engine produced 211whp/167ftlbs, on 7 psi
7psi by 3000rpm
 

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Eg Sedan
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
So after getting in the car, locating the ecu, and getting the 5 screws out, 2 of them were already stripped that I'm not even sure how they got them back in so tight.

I had to do some very fancy and professional work with my dremel tool(never used one before), in order to get them out.





Now that I've got the cover off, I discovered this.



 

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1,474 Posts
Done that to so many screws I wouldnt even try to throw a number out there. Good stuff.

As for your turbo, research. Research research research. Read through a few pages of turbo builds and it becomes painfully obvious what works and what doesnt. Just be patient.
 

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ej8
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8,323 Posts
So now the question is, is my chip retunable/reprogrammable?
thought I reply to this but must of fell asleep lol.

but uf u can pull that chip out. then it should be reprogrammable.
so pull it. dump it to the pc. check it with crome. then burn a new one.

and as far as the turbo goes. your pretty much cover. everyone said good stuff.

I would like to point out where they fail tho.
psi means nothing. its hp ( really tq curve) that breaks the rods.
so with that said keep her around 200hp and you should be fine with a good tune.

next what type of driving will u be doing?
a small t25 nissan or dsm is good for the streets. quick spool and most will run to redline without power lost. I know mines does.
a small t3 will work to. the more common so may be easier to find premade parts for.

and the oil pump
shim to up pressure
port to up flow.
 

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Clean fingers + Car work being done.....

Not accustomed to this concept. Usually im under the hood or under the car though. I leave the electrical shizznit to smart people.
 

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Eg Sedan
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When I was working with the ecu earlier, I didn't unplug anything. As someone mentioned previously I shouldn't need to unplug the battery cables or anything like that, does this stand true? I like to have multiple opinions on the same topic if possible and get everybody's views on it.
I'm currently in college for Computer Security as my major and have had plenty of hours working with electrical items, but not so much with vehicles... kind of a new thing I picked up about a year or two ago. So I am very leary when it comes to working with vehicles still.

Will the chip just pop out?
The car came the way it is now, so I have no idea where to begin checking anything on it when it comes to the ECU
How do I read it from my computer?
 

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1997 Civic Ex Turbo
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Thanks to everybody who has posted so far. TheAssassin, I actually got the idea of a street kit from looking at your build thread previously. So on stock internals 7 psi is okay?
Pressure means nothing without knowing what turbo is being used. With GA's street kit, the T3 60 on 7psi made 211whp/167ftlbs. I didn't do anything to the engine, no ARP's, head gasket, or ported oil pump. This lasted the entire 10,000miles that I put on the engine until I pulled it to drop my built engine in.

If you can use your ECU to tune with, that'll save you a decent amount.
 

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94 dx hatch
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533 Posts
Yes you definitely have a chipped ecu... but i dont see a jumper at j1. So if j1 isn't jumped you are are just running a stock p28 with extra useless hardware. But dont worry it is EASY to put a jumper in an empty slot, all you need us a small paper clip and a few minutes with a soldering iron.
 
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