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Recently I've been having a hard time deciding on either B or D series,..but my minds back on the sohc :) .. so I wan't to boost before spring and I'm going to be running a stock block until summer so I can build a block up while dd'ing the car.

One question is how many km's are too much? The engine is a stock z6 with nearly 300k on it, it pulls pretty good, doesn't burn much oil and smokes a little bit but it's also 17 years old. What compression should I have on each cylinder, I've done some searching and a few guys said around 150? And is it smart to throw on a head gasket and some studs before I boost? My power goals for now aren't much because I want something reliable until I build the block so I only need around 200whp..I am getting it tuned at JD Racing, he does most of the cars in Atlantic Canada and has a good rep, so the car's going to have a good tune. Thats it f or now, thanks in advance.
 

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DB2, EM1, EG6
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Recently I've been having a hard time deciding on either B or D series,..but my minds back on the sohc :) .. so I wan't to boost before spring and I'm going to be running a stock block until summer so I can build a block up while dd'ing the car.

One question is how many km's are too much? The engine is a stock z6 with nearly 300k on it, it pulls pretty good, doesn't burn much oil and smokes a little bit but it's also 17 years old. What compression should I have on each cylinder, I've done some searching and a few guys said around 150? And is it smart to throw on a head gasket and some studs before I boost? My power goals for now aren't much because I want something reliable until I build the block so I only need around 200whp..I am getting it tuned at JD Racing, he does most of the cars in Atlantic Canada and has a good rep, so the car's going to have a good tune. Thats it f or now, thanks in advance.
Do a compression test - the numbers will really depend on if the car/motor is warm or a cold compression test....You will need to see all four cylinders reading within 10 points of each other, closer the better...

head gasket and head studs? no, not really needed unless you already have HG leak. Replace your seals if you have any bad leaky ones. A pressurized system will usually generate a small leak to a big leak if not addressed quickly.

200 wheel is very doable. Most of our stock Z6 setups will approach the 220-250 range all day without hassle. But, im sure your climate is much different that me down here in the south USA. Sounds like you have a good tuner with knowledge so id let him work his magic with your climate and conditions....

~mike
 

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as long as you have the same(+-5) compression on all 4 your good. if its low like 150, you shouldnt boost more than 6-7psi on a good tune. but if you get greedy, your gonna burn up the rings and valve seals at the least.
Are you serious? You really think that piston rings and valve seals are what he should be worried about?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do a compression test - the numbers will really depend on if the car/motor is warm or a cold compression test....You will need to see all four cylinders reading within 10 points of each other, closer the better...

head gasket and head studs? no, not really needed unless you already have HG leak. Replace your seals if you have any bad leaky ones. A pressurized system will usually generate a small leak to a big leak if not addressed quickly.

200 wheel is very doable. Most of our stock Z6 setups will approach the 220-250 range all day without hassle. But, im sure your climate is much different that me down here in the south USA. Sounds like you have a good tuner with knowledge so id let him work his magic with your climate and conditions....

~mike

Thanks alot for the info, I'll do a test sometime this week and post the numbers up. So stock block running around 200whp, with low psi on a t3/t4, and a good tune I should have no worries?
 

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You'll be fine with that set-up. I ran 226whp 190ft/lbs in my stock block Z6 for 2 years without any problems. It took 11psi out of my t3/t4 to make those numbers. Dont cheap out and run an FMU, FMU's suck, get your ECU chipped and tune from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You'll be fine with that set-up. I ran 226whp 190ft/lbs in my stock block Z6 for 2 years without any problems. It took 11psi out of my t3/t4 to make those numbers. Dont cheap out and run an FMU, FMU's suck, get your ECU chipped and tune from there.
Yeah my tuner is chipping it and I'm paying for a full day of tuning. I'll do a comp test this week sometime, see if it's good to go.
 

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Sorry, but i'm just curious...why do you need the compression to be in good shape, does it have something to do with blow-by or something?
 

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It has to do with good piston rings.Weak rings or bad valve could=boom.Besides why build a messed up block thats only going to get worse with boost.
 

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Don't forget to get rid of the stock pcv setup and put a catchcan in there. Your ringlands will thank you!:wink:
and your seals too!

It has to do with good piston rings.Weak rings or bad valve could=boom.Besides why build a messed up block thats only going to get worse with boost.
yeah it sucks when you get on it and its like you hit a smoke screen button, good if you're trying to get away from the joker....
 

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for giggles the other day we tested all 4 of my cylinders on my d16zc, specs in my sig, my buddies tester is kinda old but all 4 had less then 1 pound difference of each other :) but i was kinda surprised to see it was only like 125 psi lol, i do have low compression pistons but i thought it would be higher then that, i will retest next week with my tester when its back from the body shop.
 
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