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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
What a PITA.
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what should I do? Kudos to them for making it pluggable with a bolt but at least make it the right size.
 

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What a PITA.
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what should I do? Kudos to them for making it pluggable with a bolt but at least make it the right size.
Let me guess, intake is already torqued down with a gasket to the head right? If not, just pull the intake off and run a drill bit into it and bore the hole out, then clean the crap out it to make sure you get all the shavings out.

If its "just barely" close to fitting in the hole, maybe shave the plastic body of the sensor down just a bit with some sandpaper, but I would advise against shaving it down if you have to take more than 1mm off the overall diameter to get it to fit.

What I've done in the past to drill critical things like that without complete disassembly and avoiding shavings inside the object, you could install spark plugs and plug all exhaust passages, then cap off any intake openings or ports and all but just the IAT hole, and use a compression tester hose with a schrader valve removed to supply compressed air up the one cylinder that has open intake valves. This will force a constant pressurized air stream out of the IAT hole while you drill. Start drilling with progressively larger bits so as to keep shaving size small, and the compressed air supply will make sure that all shavings are blown through the drill bit helix flutes.

I've also hand drilled things like that before, with the drill bit helix flutes packed full of white lithium grease to catch any shavings generated. Pack the flutes full of grease, drill a small ways by hand, remove, clean shaving contaminated grease, reapply, and do it again until you're all the way through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Let me guess, intake is already torqued down with a gasket to the head right? If not, just pull the intake off and run a drill bit into it and bore the hole out, then clean the crap out it to make sure you get all the shavings out.

If its "just barely" close to fitting in the hole, maybe shave the plastic body of the sensor down just a bit with some sandpaper, but I would advise against shaving it down if you have to take more than 1mm off the overall diameter to get it to fit.

What I've done in the past to drill critical things like that without complete disassembly and avoiding shavings inside the object, you could install spark plugs and plug all exhaust passages, then cap off any intake openings or ports and all but just the IAT hole, and use a compression tester hose with a schrader valve removed to supply compressed air up the one cylinder that has open intake valves. This will force a constant pressurized air stream out of the IAT hole while you drill. Start drilling with progressively larger bits so as to keep shaving size small, and the compressed air supply will make sure that all shavings are blown through the drill bit helix flutes.

I've also hand drilled things like that before, with the drill bit helix flutes packed full of white lithium grease to catch any shavings generated. Pack the flutes full of grease, drill a small ways by hand, remove, clean shaving contaminated grease, reapply, and do it again until you're all the way through.
Yup all torqued down. While those sound like great solutions, I want the least amount of risk of having any shavings enter the engine. I guess I'll just have to take it off. This s2 IM is proving to be quite annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
LSD is in. Fingers crossed everything is back together the way it’s suppose to be, lol.
EDIT: yes I put the interlock bolt back in.
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Anyways, I've been in touch with Greg @goautoworks and I think I'm going to be swapping my GT30 for a GTX2867R.
We haven't discussed fees but if it's reasonable I'm going to exchange them.
I have yet to ask him, do you all think that since they're the same turbos, but one is slightly smaller, that the exhaust/charge pipe will still fit? Not gonna be a deal breaker but I'd like to know what to expect.

My 1200cc FIC injectors.. Will be running E85, think I will have any problems with them running a maximum of 350hp? Anyone want to upgrade? I've got a new set. Lol

Also, anyone in SoCal ever use Ericks' Racing for tuning? Dardan is either booked up the ass or he's ignoring me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Hi guys. Dropped the motor in (2 bolt driver side mount secured). And I'm trying to install the tranny. I cannot for the life of me get the main shaft fully into the block. The closest I can get it is about 1cm from sealing. Any tips? I have the engine supported from the oil pan and its a bit lower than normal so that I can fit the trans.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Question, why not mate trans and motor, roll under on a furniture dolly, then lift? Aside from that have someone spin crank gently as you wiggle trans on the vertical axis, the clutch disk has a tendency to slide downwards and bind the input shaft going into the pilot bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Question, why not mate trans and motor, roll under on a furniture dolly, then lift? Aside from that have someone spin crank gently as you wiggle trans on the vertical axis, the clutch disk has a tendency to slide downwards and bind the input shaft going into the pilot bearing.
That’s what I ended up doing. My knees could only take so much. Appreciate your reply.
Reached my goal of having the motor and trans sitting in the car tonight.
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Don’t mind my peeling fender and ugly valve cover. I should’ve just sprayed it while I had it off and been done with it but I do want to polish it to a mirror finish once the car is established.
I’ve got a GTX2867R coming instead of the 3076. Just taking it down a notch because I don’t really ever see myself pushing the car beyond a 2867’s capabilities. Now it’s just a bunch of hoses and lines and a few more wire connections and she’s gonna be ready.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 · (Edited)
I need help adjusting the valves. I've adjusted valves once before, on a car that was already running and just needed to be readjusted. FYI this is a Z6 block with a Y8 head, Y8 bisi cam with a Skunk2 D series cam gear. All of the adjusting nuts were tight from the machine shop as they put the springs/etc in.

I started out at TDC and cam gear pointing up and adjusted cylinder #1 with no problem. Turned 90 degrees on the CAM counterclockwise and now the intake tappets will allow me to adjust but the exhaust side is tight, as if it's pressing down on the springs, if I try backing out the adjustment screw it's tight, as the spring is putting pressure on it.

And also, since the timing belt is setup and aligned, there is no chance of me bending valves by hand cranking, correct?

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^ Cyl 3 is at TDC

Also, I bought BKR7E's and gapped them to approx .029in. Is this a good place to start as far as getting the car running and to the tuner?
 

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You going 1-3-4-2? If so, look at the lobes on the exhaust side (tight side) is it on the heel of the lobe? (the backside or shortest side). If so, adjust away, if not, then put the rockers on the heel of the exhaust lobes, then adjust.


Only way to bend valves is if you slam it, or it free rolls hard and the valves are super tight.


.029" is a good starting point. You'll probably go down to .025" though
 
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
You going 1-3-4-2? If so, look at the lobes on the exhaust side (tight side) is it on the heel of the lobe? (the backside or shortest side). If so, adjust away, if not, then put the rockers on the heel of the exhaust lobes, then adjust.


Only way to bend valves is if you slam it, or it free rolls hard and the valves are super tight.


.029" is a good starting point. You'll probably go down to .025" though
Thank you. Upon inspecting it the lobe was (obviously) putting pressure on the spring which is I guess opening the valve. I had to turn it just a bit more and it reached the Heel, allowing me to adjust.
 

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Thank you. Upon inspecting it the lobe was (obviously) putting pressure on the spring which is I guess opening the valve. I had to turn it just a bit more and it reached the Heel, allowing me to adjust.
I always use the cam gear with a mark (or use the UP mark on a stock gear) clocked to 12 o clock on TDC #1, then adjust valves on #1, rotate the crank till the mark is at 9 o clock, adjust #3, rotate again till the mark is at 6 o clock, adjust #4, rotate again till the mark is at 3 o clock, adjust #2, rotate again when its back at 12 o clock and check #1 for a warm fuzzy, and you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited)
I've got another problem. This time it's electrical.
So, my headlights are not working. I've done the common "wire tuck" and also made an extension for the passenger side connector. (No cuts on original harness. I got a male and female and simply made an extension). I hooked the car up to power to test out the headlights and they do not work anymore, well the passenger turn signal light is the only thing that is on. Bulbs are fine. I also relocated the fuse box to the glove box. Everything else in the car seems to be fine. The engine harness is not hooked up to the engine, just plugged in. New p28 s300 with a Rywire subharness.
Facts:
  • grounds are good on both driver & pass side, by multimeter.
  • checked engine bay fuse box slot 5 -30amp fuse- not blown.
  • no voltage at headlight connectors.
  • passenger turn signal light is the only thing that is on

My next plan of action would be to test to see if somehow the extension I made failed, by probing at the headlight connector to end of the connector I made. I do not know which wires to trace back to test for continuity and/or voltage.

Left headlight:
Rd/grn = High
Rd/ylw = low
Right headlight:
Red/wht = low
Red/blu = high
I can't seem to find any sort of continuity between testing one of these ^ and the end of the headlight connector.
 

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Not just the ground eye bolts, but do you also have ground present at the headlight connectors themselves? Checked and verified with a meter or test light?

If you do, but just no power, try jumping 12V to the headlight bulbs just to physically verify that they can come on. I've seen some weird things with bulbs before, some look good brand new right out of the box, even test alright with a meter, will not illuminate. Will give you the good warm fuzzies while you continue troubleshooting that the bulbs can ACTUALLY work, so when you do find the problem, the bulbs can light letting you know you found the issue, instead of not, making you go WTF....

Side note as to why: can't tell you how many times this same thing happens to guys using incandescent test lights. Guys start diving in with it, "holy shit, everything is dead for some reason!" meanwhile their test light bulb is burnt out lol. It's usually a good rule of thumb to test the test light first, takes 2 seconds to touch it to across a battery and make sure it lights up, so you're not chasing your tail thinking its something else when its just a bulb. Same scenario can happen to all kinds of things while testing. It's always good to verify your testing tools, or things you'll use to verify a repair (i.e. the headlight bulbs).​

If you have ground at the lamp connectors, and you're sure you don't have power at the headlamp connectors, use this schematic to follow your way back and find power. Colors might be different (?) since this schematic is for a 1999 civic coupe, but wiring, pins and component operation should be the same.

It's pretty straight forward, power from a 30A fuse from the underHOOD fuse box feeds the combination switch (the headlight/turn signal switch on the steering column) with power, then the switch directs power into the underDASH fuse box, through respective fuses for each lamp, then out of that fuse box with wires to the respective lamps.

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