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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Other than that I hope she is running good and smooth, pulling hard, and smashing cars well above her class, as near every civic should 馃槂
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Other than that I hope she is running good and smooth, pulling hard, and smashing cars well above her class, as near every civic should 馃槂
She runs smooth, pulling hard? Eh. Crazy what a difference weight makes. My gutted hatch mated with a z6 tranny vs a fully loaded EX on a poor beat down y7 with a y7 tranny. The car is horrendously slow lol. Now for my hatch, I can't wait to smoke STI's and domestic muscle.
bay looks real nice !
thank you sir!
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Hi guys. Doing some wiring and I鈥檝e got some questions regarding S300. I see that hondata has available switch inputs that one can use such as:
B5 ACS (Air Conditioning Switch)
B8 PSP (Power Steering Pressure)
D4 SCS (Service Connection Switch)
D2 BKSW (Brake Switch)
D6 VTP (VTEC Pressure)

Now, I don鈥檛 really understand how this works. Are you suppose to use the pin say D2 for the brake switch at the ecu and run it to your own toggle button? Wouldn鈥檛 that render the brake lights useless if you remove it at the ecu to run your own switch?

I鈥檓 trying to use my own momentary switch for launch control and also an on off toggle button for a high boost and low boost setting, mounted in the plastic to the left of the steering wheel. What would the wiring look like? How should I go about this?
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Wouldn鈥檛 that render the brake lights useless if you remove it at the ecu to run your own switch?
Nope. The ECU can function perfectly happily independent of all of those inputs from those components, given that certain ones are disabled as being "in play" during ECU startup.

The only reason a stock ECU needs those inputs, I like to call them "heads up" inputs, is so the ECU can have visibility into things that may alter load, or things that have influence on drivability.

For example, those inputs allow the ECU to compensate IAC control and other variables when someone turns on extra load from the AC compressor, or jams their steering wheel at full lock when equipped with power steering.

VTEC pressure switch input is a validation circuit used by the ECU to verify that enough oil pressure to run VTEC is actually being diverted to the VTEC mechanical components in the valvetrain overhead. This input serves as a confidence check to say yes, VTEC is most likely engaged now, and the ECU should now transition to use the high cam maps and settings. This input on stock vehicles helps prevent drivability issues if the VTEC solenoid was to malfunction and oil not diverted to the VTEC mechanism, or oil pressure to the VTEC passages was too low to trigger the pressure switch, so the ECU would not allow transition to the high cam maps and would set a VTEC system malfunction fault and turn on the CEL.

Outside of the VTEC oil pressure switch, there is nothing else that can tell the ECU that VTEC might have engaged. Again, this is why I call these inputs a "heads up". But most dudes going full race car dont run with this switch, they disable it.

The brake switch input to the ECU is used for cruise control functions, otherwise is only really used on the autos, as further queues to unlock the torque converter when someone hits the brakes, or for other shift specific strategies. Again, this is a critical heads up input for autos, since other than TPS is the only other direct human induced input that the TCM program might need to take into account.

Depending on the inputs used, use the S300 to disable the ECU start up checks for some of those, so they dont impact drivability. If you want to use drivability inducing inputs as an external input for some other function, you MUST disable it in the start up checks section of SManager.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Hondata s300 Programmable ECU Guide

your brake pedal has a pressure switch lol, when contact is made, it allows power to go to your lights. why would your ecu control your brake lights lol
I鈥檓 a noob looking to understand that鈥檚 all, hondatas knowledge base is a little hard for me to understand.
Nope. The ECU can function perfectly happily independent of all of those inputs from those components, given that certain ones are disabled as being "in play" during ECU startup.

The only reason a stock ECU needs those inputs, I like to call them "heads up" inputs, is so the ECU can have visibility into things that may alter load, or things that have influence on drivability.

For example, those inputs allow the ECU to compensate IAC control and other variables when someone turns on extra load from the AC compressor, or jams their steering wheel at full lock when equipped with power steering.

VTEC pressure switch input is a validation circuit used by the ECU to verify that enough oil pressure to run VTEC is actually being diverted to the VTEC mechanical components in the valvetrain overhead. This input serves as a confidence check to say yes, VTEC is most likely engaged now, and the ECU should now transition to use the high cam maps and settings. This input on stock vehicles helps prevent drivability issues if the VTEC solenoid was to malfunction and oil not diverted to the VTEC mechanism, or oil pressure to the VTEC passages was too low to trigger the pressure switch, so the ECU would not allow transition to the high cam maps and would set a VTEC system malfunction fault and turn on the CEL.

Outside of the VTEC oil pressure switch, there is nothing else that can tell the ECU that VTEC might have engaged. Again, this is why I call these inputs a "heads up". But most dudes going full race car dont run with this switch, they disable it.

The brake switch input to the ECU is used for cruise control functions, otherwise is only really used on the autos, as further queues to unlock the torque converter when someone hits the brakes, or for other shift specific strategies. Again, this is a critical heads up input for autos, since other than TPS is the only other direct human induced input that the TCM program might need to take into account.

Depending on the inputs used, use the S300 to disable the ECU start up checks for some of those, so they dont impact drivability. If you want to use drivability inducing inputs as an external input for some other function, you MUST disable it in the start up checks section of SManager.
Hey DrTalon, thanks for the thorough explanation. I think I have a pretty good understanding now.
As for actually wiring my own switch, let鈥檚 ignore the D2 brake switch input. According to Hondata, every input besides D2 activates when grounded. Does that mean the pin on the ecu is hot? Therefor should I splice into the input wire at the ecu and run that hot wire to my switch, and then a ground wire to my switch, completing the circuit at the switch?

Thank you again.
 

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I鈥檓 a noob looking to understand that鈥檚 all, hondatas knowledge base is a little hard for me to understand.

Hey DrTalon, thanks for the thorough explanation. I think I have a pretty good understanding now.
As for actually wiring my own switch, let鈥檚 ignore the D2 brake switch input. According to Hondata, every input besides D2 activates when grounded. Does that mean the pin on the ecu is hot? Therefor should I splice into the input wire at the ecu and run that hot wire to my switch, and then a ground wire to my switch, completing the circuit at the switch?

Thank you again.
The pin itself is probably not hot, the instructions are telling you to send it a hot. Those callouts are what the ECU is looking for, before recognizing an input pin as being triggered.

Using brake switch/D2 input will require you to send 12v/battery +/hot to that pin from something (i.e. a switch, jumper wire, etc.) before the ECU recognizes that the input is being triggered.

Like you said, the other inputs would require you to send a ground/battery -/chassis ground to those pins to get the ECU to recognize those inputs as triggered.

It is the presence of high (+) or low (-) at the input pins (again, depending on input design type) that tells the ECU to do "something". That "something" is whatever you tell/program the S300 you want done. So if you designate D2 as your trigger for launch control/2 step in the S300 settings, supplying 12V/B+ to the D2 pin input will tell the ECU/S300 "hey, my dude is ready to make boost and flames, I'll hold RPM at x for him, retard timing and add fuel... until I no longer see 12v at pin D2"
 

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Okay, I get it now. Does this look about right?
View attachment 140124
Yup, for that input that is correct.

I like your X lol. Just remember, when you override or designate an input to the ECU that does something other than what the stock input used to do, in your example, you're taking over the AC switch input that used to idle up the engine when turning on the AC, to now do launch control functions. You'll have to choose one or the other, OR disable the input override in S300 each time you want to revert to normal AC ECU response.

You'd hate to turn your AC on for cruising and engage launch control lmao. Although if you werent opposed to enabling/disabling the setting each time you really wanted launch control or not, the AC button would make a sick launch control button that is super sleeper haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Yup, for that input that is correct.

I like your X lol. Just remember, when you override or designate an input to the ECU that does something other than what the stock input used to do, in your example, you're taking over the AC switch input that used to idle up the engine when turning on the AC, to now do launch control functions. You'll have to choose one or the other, OR disable the input override in S300 each time you want to revert to normal AC ECU response.

You'd hate to turn your AC on for cruising and engage launch control lmao. Although if you werent opposed to enabling/disabling the setting each time you really wanted launch control or not, the AC button would make a sick launch control button that is super sleeper haha.
Cool cool, thank you very much.
Don't have a/c in the car and never will, same with power steering. I was wondering how it would work for inputs that you needed, you did a great job explaining.

My motor is done, just installing fittings for oil, coolant, and fuel, and finishing up the power to accessories and she's gonna be on the way to Dardan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
Bro, looking back on your first post with parts list updates, your into this build with at least 13k in parts lmao. Holy shit!

I'm sorry, but we need more pics of this monster
More than that, just bought an Mfactory lsd and rywire harness. When I see the pic of the vtec head and s300 box I realize how fast and how much I have learned so far. It鈥檚 crazy.
Here鈥檚 how it sits today:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Rim Automotive design

Speedometer Trip computer Motor vehicle Vehicle Gauge

Hood Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Eyewear

Motor vehicle Hood Light Automotive tire Automotive design
Very close to getting it running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Just gonna post this here and hopefully it can help someone who's searching for it, for some reason S2 doesn't have it on their website.
Skunk2 pro series intake manifold for honda civic crx d15 d16 d16y7 d16y8 d16z6 d15b7
I will also attach it, I hate dead links.

Quick question for you guys. I want to test my gauges and relay just to make sure my wiring somewhat works. Can I hookup the battery and just turn the ignition on? No ecu in the car. Will the fuel pump still try to prime?
 

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The ecu is what grounds the main relay, but you can bypass it by jumping pin a14 (I think) to ground, will be an accurate ground path test for the fuel pump activation circut. You can also test that batt+ shows up at the different engine and ecu sources the main relay runs when ground is connected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
The ecu is what grounds the main relay, but you can bypass it by jumping pin a14 (I think) to ground, will be an accurate ground path test for the fuel pump activation circut. You can also test that batt+ shows up at the different engine and ecu sources the main relay runs when ground is connected.
Ah. Okay I'd rather just plug in my ecu than bending a paper clip as a ground lol. Thanks for the help
 
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