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Anyone have a D series LSD for sale before I splurge on a new one?
DrTalon do you still want my slightly damaged z6 crank?
Would anyone advise me to not stick with the stock y8 cam and go with the 105300?
You got pics of that crank? I'd love to have it if it could be refurbished!

What are your power goals again?

Since your talking about cams, I've got a Bisimoto Level 1 cam for the Y8, never been used. I honestly dont know much about this cam, and I can't find much info on it. It probably wouldn't offer the kinds of gains the 105300 would, but if you want it you can have it :) Maybe trade for crank?

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
You got pics of that crank? I'd love to have it if it could be refurbished!

What are your power goals again?

Since your talking about cams, I've got a Bisimoto Level 1 cam for the Y8, never been used. I honestly dont know much about this cam, and I can't find much info on it. It probably wouldn't offer the kinds of gains the 105300 would, but if you want it you can have it :) Maybe trade for crank?

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Lookin for 350whp for now. Then turn it up + more mods once I get bored.
I’m no expert when it comes to telling if a crank is usable but I think it might’ve spun a rod bearing. Took a closeup. That journal and one more has a scratch I can feel with my fingernail. I'd like to get my hands on that / a cam if it means its cheap/traded for sure.
 

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Lookin for 350whp for now. Then turn it up + more mods once I get bored.
I’m no expert when it comes to telling if a crank is usable but I think it might’ve spun a rod bearing. Took a closeup. That journal and one more has a scratch I can feel with my fingernail. I'd like to get my hands on that / a cam if it means its cheap/traded for sure.
Looks like scuffing on rod journal #3, the rest appear OK/fixable. If the damage on #3 barely catches your nail, it could probably be salvaged with a micropolish. I'll have to do another keyway fix :)

If you're looking for the 350whp, I'd honestly recommend something spicier than the L1, but you're still welcome to it if you want. I would be willing to trade straight out as well, we would just be responsible for the shipping of each other's pieces (you pay for cam ship, i pay for crank ship)

When discussing my turbo regrind i got from Colt, both he and the tuner (JD) said without changing anything from my previous setup (which made like 260ish with vitara's @20psi), the cam was a plug and play 85WHP by itself (retuned of course)

Which turned out to be true on the new setup, although I did a ton of port work to the head and manifolds and had new pistons, (static comp was the same as with the vitara's) JD got the car to hit 350 @18PSI on E.

Getting that NA valve overlap down under VTEC, and some more lift and duration makes a big difference in cylinder VE.

Let me know what you would like to do! I'm down for a trade if you are!
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Looks like scuffing on rod journal #3, the rest appear OK/fixable. If the damage on #3 barely catches your nail, it could probably be salvaged with a micropolish. I'll have to do another keyway fix :)

If you're looking for the 350whp, I'd honestly recommend something spicier than the L1, but you're still welcome to it if you want. I would be willing to trade straight out as well, we would just be responsible for the shipping of each other's pieces (you pay for cam ship, i pay for crank ship)

When discussing my turbo regrind i got from Colt, both he and the tuner (JD) said without changing anything from my previous setup (which made like 260ish with vitara's @20psi), the cam was a plug and play 85WHP by itself (retuned of course)

Which turned out to be true on the new setup, although I did a ton of port work to the head and manifolds and had new pistons, (static comp was the same as with the vitara's) JD got the car to hit 350 @18PSI on E.

Getting that NA valve overlap down under VTEC, and some more lift and duration makes a big difference in cylinder VE.

Let me know what you would like to do! I'm down for a trade if you are!
Down! PM'd you not sure if you saw it or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Only one way to find out 😃 test fit time!
Yessir. I’ll post back with progress next year. Haha jk, I’ll keep posting pics as we get it assembled.
Also picked me up a little OfferUp special. $600 cash. Suspected blown head gasket.

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My hatch is now out of commission. New coupe fresh manual swap with eBay clutch and donor y7 motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
So I got the coupe running and after installing an offer up transmission paired with a eBay clutch I went ahead and tried to take it for a spin. I was able to get a little power in reverse, but as I went to accelerate in 1st, letting the clutch out I felt a snap or disconnect and suddenly there was no power. So this has to be happening in the clutch disc/clutch fork area and I'm really stumped as I immediately yanked the trans off and couldn't find anything loose or damaged. I think MAYBE the clutch bearing fork popped off? Does that sound right? After this happened with the motor running and my foot off the clutch pedal, I could hear a grinding noise. Not anything super intense but obviously something has disconnected and is rubbing.
 

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You sure the axle didn't just pop out? They can look engaged but not really be connected. The axle snap ring really needs to get jammed into the diff to have full spline engagement. If you didn't feel a confident "clunk" when putting the axle into the diff, it may not be fully seated.

If one pops out with an open diff, the car won't move at all.

If it was the throw out/fork, you wouldn't be able to disengage the transmission, it would be like its stuck in gear the whole time.

I'll bet on axle popped out, ebay clutch hub rivets snapped (seen this once), improper gear engagement due to shifter slop, or something in trans might have broke.

Honestly, you don't even need the throw out fork or the release bearing to drive the car lol, if everything else is working properly, the car would still want to drive forward in any gear. You just wouldn't have a way to disconnect the engine from the trans, so it would want to move all the time when in gear and trying to crank over the engine.

The only other possible reason the throw out fork/release bearing might not allow the car to drive, is they could be engaged all the time for some reason, disconnecting the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
You sure the axle didn't just pop out? They can look engaged but not really be connected. The axle snap ring really needs to get jammed into the diff to have full spline engagement. If you didn't feel a confident "clunk" when putting the axle into the diff, it may not be fully seated.

If one pops out with an open diff, the car won't move at all.

If it was the throw out/fork, you wouldn't be able to disengage the transmission, it would be like its stuck in gear the whole time.

I'll bet on axle popped out, ebay clutch hub rivets snapped (seen this once), improper gear engagement due to shifter slop, or something in trans might have broke.

Honestly, you don't even need the throw out fork or the release bearing to drive the car lol, if everything else is working properly, the car would still want to drive forward in any gear. You just wouldn't have a way to disconnect the engine from the trans, so it would want to move all the time when in gear and trying to crank over the engine.

The only other possible reason the throw out fork/release bearing might not allow the car to drive, is they could be engaged all the time for some reason, disconnecting the clutch.
Now that you mention it, I bet an axle popped out. I was speed running putting the car together as I was eager to drive it for the first time, didn't even check if they were seated properly. Gonna put it back together tomorrow. Appreciate you guys.

It was the axle. I feel like an idiot lol.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Soooo.... what was the disconnect happening with the trans? Axle pop out or busted wtf/ever in the trans? The more posts I have blaming under built trans the better for me clientele...
 
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