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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The deeper V of the bearings creates a channel that supposedly carries the oil around to the single oil hole just as effectively as the 2 hole earlier design, allowing rod journal oiling to remain constant no matter the position of the hole in the crank relative to the hole in the block. higher power levels, however, deform the main bearing and allow oil to escape dropping oil pressure on the rod journal as the hole on the crank moves away from the hole in the block. With 2 holes picking up oil to push to the rod journal the Z6 crank handles higher compression/boost better as it can maintain oil pressure at the rod journal throughout both compression and power strokes. Look at wear patterns on y8 cranks vs z6 cranks and the results are quite obvious. The y8 will be ovaled from top to bottom when crank is mid stroke, while the z6 wears near even circle.
Restored faith in my z6 crank purchase :ROFLMAO:
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Honesty i don't notice a difference in wear under 260whp, which is not bad for a sohc long stroke narrow bore 1.6l, but I tend to favor the z6 crank and head over the y8 for higher powered builds.
Notice the cross drilled vs straight shot differences? In cross drilled( what you end up with going dual hole on a y8 crank) the oil holes are 180 degrees off, but with straight shot (z6) its about 105 degrees off. The offset in the oil passage fights the centrifugal force trying to stop the oil from flowing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Honesty i don't notice a difference in wear under 260whp, which is not bad for a sohc long stroke narrow bore 1.6l, but I tend to favor the z6 crank and head over the y8 for higher powered builds.
Notice the cross drilled vs straight shot differences? In cross drilled( what you end up with going dual hole on a y8 crank) the oil holes are 180 degrees off, but with straight shot (z6) its about 105 degrees off. The offset in the oil passage fights the centrifugal force trying to stop the oil from flowing.
That makes sense. I will be using the y8 head I have in the first picture. I sold the z6 head I had because it had been resurfaced a bunch (as my friend told me we need to avoid in order to keep the headgasket thinner while keeping compression in check)
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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As the z6 has larger combustion chambers you likely would have been fine, but getting cam timing dialed in without knowing the amount head has been milled and block decked can be a pain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Instead of making a new thread I'll post here,

note: I've soldered some speaker wires together and I know enough about resistance, voltage, wire gauge, and secure connections to put it simply, not an expert in any way.

I would like to run ethanol on my build with my hondata S300 ecu. I was planning on buying BR's premade harness but they've been out of stock for months and won't give a straight answer on when they will be making more. There's a few similar companies making the same thing but also sold out and also have long/no ETA. While I'm waiting on my block and school's coming to an end, I'd like to get busy on something.

Has anyone ever made one of these or could give some insight on the process on possibly making one of these?
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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You can go grab 3 ecu pins/wires from cabin to fender connector for your chassis at the junk yard, buy the ethanol sensor and pigtail for a gm, along with the quick disconnect ends in the help section of your local parts store, a section of 3/8 or 10mm fuel injection hose, cut the clamps off your banjo fittings at filter and rail, find a nice spot to mount the sensor, run your hose, cut it then take it down to a place that does hose fitting to have the proper clamps squeezed on so you wont develop leaks, no kit needed, max 1 day wait time for the sensor.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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The s300 interfaces directly with the sensor so no converter box or anything needed, been looking at this conversion too, e85 is still under 3 bucks and 91 is about to hit 5
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Like oldcivicjoe said, S300 interfaces with the GM/Continental flex fuel sensors directly. You'll just need to pay attention to the S300 instructions to know the FF input, then provide switched fused power and ground to the sensor.

Then run wires to the FF sensor, and done.


Heres your connector:



Heres your FF sensor:



Then hop on ebay and buy this:



Get a 20' roll of small wire loom while you're there:



And a roll of electrical tape, then build your own 3 wire harness.


With this, you'll come out a bit cheaper, learn stuff along the way, and have wire, tape and loom left over for other projects :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Like oldcivicjoe said, S300 interfaces with the GM/Continental flex fuel sensors directly. You'll just need to pay attention to the S300 instructions to know the FF input, then provide switched fused power and ground to the sensor.

Then run wires to the FF sensor, and done.


Heres your connector:



Heres your FF sensor:



Then hop on ebay and buy this:



Get a 20' roll of small wire loom while you're there:



And a roll of electrical tape, then build your own 3 wire harness.


With this, you'll come out a bit cheaper, learn stuff along the way, and have wire, tape and loom left over for other projects :)
Thank you Dr Talon. Ordering the stuff now, I'll be back with more questions later. lol

EDIT: should I buy a pack of inline fuse holders for the power cable? Looks like burton racing has one on theirs.
 

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Thank you Dr Talon. Ordering the stuff now, I'll be back with more questions later. lol

EDIT: should I buy a pack of inline fuse holders for the power cable? Looks like burton racing has one on theirs.
Well, depending on where you source power for the sensor, yes you might need those. Probably buy a pack just to have them.

You might be able to already get it from a protected and switched circuit within your current (A) needs.

Maybe think about that for a bit, the place you tie into for power. If you have a place in the harness or at the fuse block you'd like to use for switched power, you'll just need to figure out whats on that circuit, and the level of fused protection closest to the location you'll tie into, to determine if using an external fuse holder is needed. If the closest fuse on the tie in circuit is 40A, then yeah youll need a 5A fuse holder to protect your FF sensor wires haha.

The FF sensor itself draws 5-600 mA max, ever, it is not a power hungry device. Im sure tapping into just about any switched power circuit on the car will not remove too much current from anything, then providing the FF sensor with a 1-5A fuse for protection will be plenty, and will not overload the downstream wires in case of a short, so they wont turn into toaster elements :)

Also, there are spots in dash mounted fuse block, drivers side kick panel, that provide empty blades for you to tie into. Some of them are power-all-the-time, others are switched. These are there precisely for wiring in accessories. Honda was being nice :) Tap into one of these, install an inline fuse holder with a 5A fuse, and youll be good :)

I lucked out when i removed my SRS devices and controllers from the car. I left the power and ground circuits in tact, as well as the cigarette lighter circuits, because both dump out of the harness at the middle of the center console. I repurposed the SRS ECU circuit to a 7.5A feed for accessories like gauges, the FF converter box, the FF sensor and the wideband. The benefit is that this circuit is a key ON switched circuit, and has a nice factory fuse location in the fuse block already.

The cigarette lighter is still a 15A accessory source if its needed for things like a laptop power source, phone charger, inverter, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Well, depending on where you source power for the sensor, yes you might need those. Probably buy a pack just to have them.

You might be able to already get it from a protected and switched circuit within your current (A) needs.

Maybe think about that for a bit, the place you tie into for power. If you have a place in the harness or at the fuse block you'd like to use for switched power, you'll just need to figure out whats on that circuit, and the level of fused protection closest to the location you'll tie into, to determine if using an external fuse holder is needed. If the closest fuse on the tie in circuit is 40A, then yeah youll need a 5A fuse holder to protect your FF sensor wires haha.

The FF sensor itself draws 5-600 mA max, ever, it is not a power hungry device. Im sure tapping into just about any switched power circuit on the car will not remove too much current from anything, then providing the FF sensor with a 1-5A fuse for protection will be plenty, and will not overload the downstream wires in case of a short, so they wont turn into toaster elements :)

Also, there are spots in dash mounted fuse block, drivers side kick panel, that provide empty blades for you to tie into. Some of them are power-all-the-time, others are switched. These are there precisely for wiring in accessories. Honda was being nice :) Tap into one of these, install an inline fuse holder with a 5A fuse, and youll be good :)

I lucked out when i removed my SRS devices and controllers from the car. I left the power and ground circuits in tact, as well as the cigarette lighter circuits, because both dump out of the harness at the middle of the center console. I repurposed the SRS ECU circuit to a 7.5A feed for accessories like gauges, the FF converter box, the FF sensor and the wideband. The benefit is that this circuit is a key ON switched circuit, and has a nice factory fuse location in the fuse block already.

The cigarette lighter is still a 15A accessory source if its needed for things like a laptop power source, phone charger, inverter, etc.
Okay, I think I will end up running it from the kick-panel fuse box. It should be just like installing a remote wire for an amplifier.. I don't like the sound of cutting into a factory harness even though that is certainly what I'm about to do to this car haha. Thank you guys very much for the knowledge.
 

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Also
View attachment 139459
View attachment 139460
Engine has had CSS installed and is back from the machine shop. Head was taken care of as well.
assembly photos soon. Should be in the car hopefully by beginning of Oct.
Oh shit! What turbo is that? What in the world!

You really snuck this progress up on us haha.

We need more!

Cant wait to see more pics!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Oh shit! What turbo is that? What in the world!

You really snuck this progress up on us haha.

We need more!

Cant wait to see more pics!
GTX3076R .63 - goautoworks x600 kit
Yeah man CSS and machine work took forever. Just got it back last week. Going to be putting everything together at my friends house, hopefully this weekend. I’ll keep y’all updated
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Anyone have a D series LSD for sale before I splurge on a new one?
DrTalon do you still want my slightly damaged z6 crank?
Would anyone advise me to not stick with the stock y8 cam and go with the 105300?
 
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