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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's my 98 hatch build. Figured I'd start documenting what I'm doing so I can look back at this thread when I'm done, hopefully by the end of this summer.:p
Made my first step forward yesterday, Y8 head for my Y7 block and p28 s300 ecu.


EDIT:

Fuel
FIC 1200's $475
DW300 pump $175
AEM FPR $130
B&W FP gauge $50
Flex fuel sensor/Burton Racing harness $200
AEM FR $125
BR Fuel pump wire upgrade $150

Sensors/wiring:
ECU kstuned black (p28 w s300v3) $650
BR 4bar map $35
AEM wideband $190
AEM oil pressure $190
Mac 3port with BR BBG kit $135
Dorman tps $20
Rywire harness $600
18 gauge OFC/8 gauge power and grounds + lugs, etc. $100

Engine:
go-autoworks RX600 turbo kit (garrett GTX3076R, 3in DP, tial MVR 44mm, tial 50mm BOV ) $4100
Comp. stage 4 clutch + flywheel $620
Cometic HG $100
ARP studs plus extra corner stud (z6/y8 combo) $175
Wiseco 75.5 8.5ish pistons $400
Eagle rods $400
Ferrea turbo valves and BC steel springs/retainers $475
ACL bearing set $130
CSS $475
OEM gaskets, seals, etc. $400
ACL oil pump $100
Golden eagle sandwich $120
Skunk 2 camgear, intake. $160
Skunk 2 66mm tb $120
VTEC head $100
Z6 block $100
ATI damper $365
Turbo blanket and heat wrap $120
New z6 crank $180
Bisi stage 1 y8 cam $0 thanks DrTalon
ETC:
Mfactory LSD $675
AN lines and bungs $100 so far...
Skunk2 halfsize radiator $175
ebay shroud + fan $80
Innovative 75a mounts $220
Machine shop work $800
eBay catch can $50

GRAND TOTAL (so far): $13,965
 

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$100 for a y8 is about what they go for. I can find head and intake combo between $100-150 For a y7-y8. But
Finding a junk motor for cheap with a y8 head on it is the way to save some money.
that s300 is nice 😎🥲
are you planing to boost it.
Im building a EK hatch for a daily right now
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
$100 for a y8 is about what they go for. I can find head and intake combo between $100-150 For a y7-y8. But
Finding a junk motor for cheap with a y8 head on it is the way to save some money.
that s300 is nice 😎🥲
are you planing to boost it.
Im building a EK hatch for a daily right now
Thanks and yeah junkyard prices it is what it is. Ebay people are selling them for like $200+.
Yeah should've mentioned in the title I'm gonna be boosting it with some quality parts. Thinking about a garrett gtx3076r/gtx3071r
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nice! Any progress? Im bored and need engine porn!
None that I can show you :(
I have been making progress though, in sake of saving time I went ahead and:
  • sent out block to CSS about a week ago, don't know when it'll be back :(
  • go-autoworks X600 kit with a garrett GTX3076R, stage 4 comp clutch and flywheel. Ordered about two weeks ago.
  • ordered other small items like an ATI super damper, 75a innovative mounts, progress cs3 coilovers 450/350 spring rates for now.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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A good machine shop can repair a journal that spun a bearing for around 80 bucks, but depending on who you work with an undamaged crank may have been the better choice 👍
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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It does look salvageable, but I dont think that's a true Z6 crank... I couldn't see any journals that had straight through drilled oil journals.

Can you tell if any of the journals have 2 oil holes 180 degrees out from each other?

If not, it was probably replaced with an aftermarket crank kit at some point, which almost all of those only have single "straight shot" oil holes on the journals.

That's been one of my biggest problems trying to source a crank for a Z6, looking for one with the cross drilled oil holes. Almost all parts stores sell crank kits for a Z6 engine, but if you inspect them, they all have single oil holes on the journals.

I'm extremely curious about the cross drilled journal design that Honda built for the Z6. I've researched the crap out of the "cross drill" concept, and have learned that most high performance engine parts builders have dropped the concept.

Apparently, the design of the oil gallery drill path is different between Z6 and Y8, so its not as simple as just taking a Y8 crank, drilling another hole through the journal to the other side, and voila, you have a Z6 crank. At least, this is what I've come to learn.

I just haven't had physical evidence to confirm this, because I've never actually seen a true Z6 crank up close, I keep coming across remans that copy the Y8 design.

From everything I've heard from real life users of both cranks in high powered builds, is that the Z6 crank is superior in its ability to keep the rod and mains fed with oil using the cross drill design. But I keep coming up with conflicting info when I research the subject, and want to inspect myself!

If that crank in the video does have cross drilled journals, I'd be very interested in purchasing, due to all the above reasons!


Thanks,
Talon.
 

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Some quick reading that pretty quickly shoots down the cross drilled journal concept:



There are so many articles like the one above. It makes perfect logical sense, to the point where I'm curious WHY people in real world builds prefer the Z6 crank for high power over a design like the Y8. I get the theory on both reasonings, but proof is in the pudding, and every D builder playing in the 400+hp realm seems to swear by the Z6 crossdrill design.

I just want to put em both side by side and inspect haha.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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The deeper V of the bearings creates a channel that supposedly carries the oil around to the single oil hole just as effectively as the 2 hole earlier design, allowing rod journal oiling to remain constant no matter the position of the hole in the crank relative to the hole in the block. higher power levels, however, deform the main bearing and allow oil to escape dropping oil pressure on the rod journal as the hole on the crank moves away from the hole in the block. With 2 holes picking up oil to push to the rod journal the Z6 crank handles higher compression/boost better as it can maintain oil pressure at the rod journal throughout both compression and power strokes. Look at wear patterns on y8 cranks vs z6 cranks and the results are quite obvious. The y8 will be ovaled from top to bottom when crank is mid stroke, while the z6 wears near even circle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Some quick reading that pretty quickly shoots down the cross drilled journal concept:



There are so many articles like the one above. It makes perfect logical sense, to the point where I'm curious WHY people in real world builds prefer the Z6 crank for high power over a design like the Y8. I get the theory on both reasonings, but proof is in the pudding, and every D builder playing in the 400+hp realm seems to swear by the Z6 crossdrill design.

I just want to put em both side by side and inspect haha.
Ah man that article has me rethinking my $180 z6 crank purchase. Watch it be a reman/d16y crank lol.

I also just learned how to identify which crank is what, so thanks for that.

I don’t have my damaged crank on me right now, it’s at my buddies. Not sure when I will get ahold of it but when I do, I will identify it and get back to you asap.
 
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