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Eg Sedan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I noticed a few weeks ago that when I was backing out of my driveway, I heard this god awful creaking sound when turning the wheels. It used to go away after driving for a few minutes, but not now.
(Not sure if this is the correct place to post this, please move if necessary)

It makes this noise when:
-Stationary
-Driving at any speed and turning the wheel, obviously can hear it louder when driving slower due to exhaust sound.
-Reversing with the wheels turned

Mainly looking for leads as to what to check or look for. So far I've came up with a few things to check when I get out of class:
-Tie rod ends (what do I look for?)
-Ball joints (what do I look for)
-LCA/UCA bushings (Will be looking for cracks)
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,665 Posts
Lower ball joint, not fun when they snap.

They usually snap when backing up but can also fail at highway speeds.....that won't end well.

A good shop can change both in an hour....
 

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I have similar noises. Waiting for a good time to change my luca, uca and tie rods. I'm not sure if mine are solely during turning on during any weight shift.
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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my 96 hx started metal creaking/moan when i would turn the wheels in a parking lot but didnt do it at higher speeds, i tried finding the cause but as soon as i jacked up the car and turned the wheels nothing happened so i didnt find the problem, hopefully you find yours though
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you all very much. I went over a small bump today to test and see if it will make a squeak or creak noise, and it did. Is there anything specific to look for to see if a ball joint is bad?
Not great at suspension or transmission issues, but thanks to some of you that have posted here and many of the others, I have now began my engine build.
 

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To check the ball joints:
1) With wheels in the air, grab the tires at 12 and 6 o clock and shake. If there is any play, the wheel bearing, lower ball joint or upper ball joint have play and need to be replaced.
2) Take a pry bar and try to pry the knuckle away from the control arms, if there is any play, replace the ball joints.
3) Without tearing the boots, pull them back and see if there is any rust. If the boots are torn or there is rust inside the joint, replace it.
 

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1999 EJ8
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Had the same annoying squeak for a couple months, turned out to be the upper ball joint.

Would squeak with any movement of the wheel when stationary or moving. Also creaked when I got out of the car.

Replaced both uppers and I'm noise free again. The old ball joints were dry and rusted, tons of play.

Sketchy. :nono:
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmmm... I shall inspect the other side + the upper on the passenger side.

Side note: Any detailed guides w/ pictures for installing arp extended wheel studs? Haven't searched a lot, just wondering if someone has a link handy.
 

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97 honda HX-07 STI
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Hmmm... I shall inspect the other side + the upper on the passenger side.

Take a look at the CV axles too since you are under there if the boots are ripped or torn u should replace em. Besides once you have the ball joints out the axles are a cake walk to pull. And it cost me 97.00 bucks at Oreily Auto Parts for the both Axles and lower ball joints. I didn't do the top because I had aftermakert camber installed. But I had a worn out passenger side axle and I was in there anyways so. Killed like 1 or 2 future gremlins with 1 stone.

Farmer D and Transzex. Both have a ton of knowledge in these areas hear what they say and take it as gospel.
 

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97 honda HX-07 STI
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Both axles are leaking and two other boots are ripped as well, possibly the tie rods?
Then it is time lol for sure. I was going to mention thinking it might be axles. But not know what condtion they are or were in. Well I did really want to speculate. And that along with the lower ball joints being replace may just be the meal ticket. I have heard it said that the upper ball joints are a lot more hardy. However as stated before if your in there might as well get em done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hmmm.. previously I had issues with getting the rear passenger wheel aligned to get toe within spec. It just simply wouldn't go far enough even with it adjusted all the way in. So a "mechanic" heated the compensator/toe adjustment arm to bend it in. Is there any way possibly that the ball joint(s) could effect this? I'm just completely puzzled on this alignment problem. And now I have two problems, a purposely bent compensator arm lol.
 

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As far as the ball joints go I don't think they would. Not to say they couldn't given the right circumstances. One thing you might consider would be (If you havent already) Front and rear adjustable camber. Of course (as it was explained to me) once camber or any modification is done to the suspension. You will always need to get it aligned after the fact. I know that if you get a front adjustable camber that will take care of the upper ball joints. And it is not overly expensive. I would bet if you compared the complete cost of the Upper ball joints in conjunction to front camber kit you would be looking at 10-20difference in cost. They make a rear adjustable camber as well. And as far as that purposely heated and bent arm goes hmmm don't know what to think not good to be honest (Was your car ever in a Serious Accident? that might be the alignment problem if it was). I would start with the front lower ball joints and axles. See what that does get em in.Have your car aligned. If money is a problem go to a junkyard and get a used set of axles and buy new boots for em .Take off the old boots from the new used axles clean up the axles really good and get some really good assembly or rotating lube use it on the joints liberally. Then put the new boots on. A set of used axles at a Wrecking yard will set you back 30 or so ,New boots 10 bucks assembly lube maybe 5 bucks. Look on ebay too. I have seen used sets of cv axles 20-25 but you are playing the waiting game. And if you get ebay ball joints (They are good but you should remove the rubber top piece and make sure the joint underneath is greased(They usually don't come greased) but once you grease em they are good to go. You might even be able to pull your old axles clean them, up really good remove the old boots and just buy some new ones off ebay 5-10 bucks. But you will really really want to clean your axles first and be liberal with the lube then put on new boots. If you decide to use your old axles after you clean them up (take a solid look at em inspect them closely however if you have any questions after you pull the cv axles and look at em toss em but you could get lucky money back in you pocket or car lol. Really its probably best to buy new ones. I am just trying to give you options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I appreciate the long and detailed response with multiple possibilities to choose from.
I love my car, and I mean LOVE the car... the only thing that has had me upset is the fact I couldn't get it aligned properly. I took it to a mechanic shop, and not an "alignment specific shop" which I was told could have been a mistake as well. We put it on an alignment rack and used some kind of electronic system and put 4 things on the wheels, then the computer said what adjustments to make.
New lower ball joint from napa is 21$. I am willing to spend WHATEVER amount it takes to get this car straightened out. I've already looks for shells in my area to swap my built motor in, and no luck at all.
 
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