Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im looking at new Ksport coilovers and i can either use the eg ones that have rates of 10kg front and 6kg rear, or i can get integra dc ones which are 13kg front 7kg rear..... What would you reccomend for some summer street driving, and some autox racing on my full interior del Sol VTEC?
And yeah i know its not a d, but you guys are the only ones i can get reliable answers from.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
999 Posts
u should be fine with the 10k ... no real reason to stiffer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ya the teg ones are an extra $75.... would there be any performance gain with the stiffer? Cuz i want these to last a long time..... and dont wanna screw up the decision.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
999 Posts
ya youll gain understeer with the teg rates :) u should be fine with either but... as long your not dumped you should be fine..i say since ur only going to do some events i say street comfort is the way to go ... plus those rates are still kinda high 10k 6k so u should be fine for both
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
pass on k-sport. go koni/gc with some 450's all around and see how you like it. the koni's will last longer then your car and are scalable so if you get hooked on autocross you can turn up the wick without having to buy new dampers. i bought my koni's when i first started playing with honda's 8yrs ago. i've had them revalved and used to run 800lb springs with them daily on the street. all that from a suspension that cost me $700 new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just wanna tuck some tire.... not planning to be totally dumped. These Ksports are 550 brand new.... so its a real good price..... and im hearing real good things about Ksports.

So basically the teg setup will cause me uneccecary understeer and will actually autox worse than the eg setup? And yeah i like a neutral, if not oversteerish car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
1) if you are tucking a ~23" diameter tire with an EG/DC chassis you are too low or you should be running 1200lb/in springs

2) koni's will outperform the k-sports all day long. there is nothing on the market at the price point of the koni's that performs better. there is nothing on the market cheaper then the koni's that performs adequately with the only exception possibly being Bilstein stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
999 Posts
pass on k-sport. go koni/gc with some 450's all around and see how you like it. the koni's will last longer then your car and are scalable so if you get hooked on autocross you can turn up the wick without having to buy new dampers. i bought my koni's when i first started playing with honda's 8yrs ago. i've had them revalved and used to run 800lb springs with them daily on the street. all that from a suspension that cost me $700 new.


get out of here with your crzy self haha i hate you.. i need money to get my konis revalved. hahaha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1) if you are tucking a ~23" diameter tire with an EG/DC chassis you are too low or you should be running 1200lb/in springs

2) koni's will outperform the k-sports all day long. there is nothing on the market at the price point of the koni's that performs better. there is nothing on the market cheaper then the koni's that performs adequately with the only exception possibly being Bilstein stuff.
Then i guess i wanna be too low :| What should i do.....

Where can i look/price out the best brices for koni coilovers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh and im not sure what you mean by scalable.... but i do know the Ksport setup im looking at can be revalved as well and is 36 way dampning adjustable
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
get out of here with your crzy self haha i hate you.. i need money to get my konis revalved. hahaha
you'll hate me even more when you see the koni pimp-ness going on the car this winter. ;)

by scalable i mean they can be revalved for race spring rates and so on.

ok, 36-way adjustable. how much of a difference in damping force will that give you? does that do rebound only, or rebound and compression simultaneously? how much do you want to know about dampers? i don't know everything about them, but i can make your head hurt if you want. ;)

check out redshiftmotorsports.com for deals on koni's. i think you can get the ground controls for the koni's from him as well. figure on $400 or so for the shocks, $350 or so for the gc's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Go ahead, make my head hurt, i like info so long as it is given in an organized manner. :)

Like i said earlier, the Ksports can be revalved if i want later, THe 36 way adjustability is for compression and rebound simultaneously. The valving is specifically matched to the springs. They are a monotube design. And the ride height is adjusted seperatly from the bottom of the shock, so suspension travel is never altered. Thats all i know about them/can find about them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
the ksports use a needle/seat style adjustment method. this approach is very cheap approach that is extremely sensitive to manufacturing defects, specs of dirt, and a host of other extremely difficult to isolate variables.

the needle/seat adjuster works on the bleed channel which makes for a very low sensitivity type adjuster as well. you have to get enough fluid moving to activate the bleed channel before the adjuster does a damn thing. this means you get less low speed changes in the damping curve and since low speed is what affects the handling of your car you'll have very little tunability.

also, a needle/seat adjuster typically affects both bump and rebound simultaneously. not good if you just need more rebound to alter the balance in one phase of the corner. for example, more front rebound can help on corner exit, but more front compression will make the car tighter on entry.

a needle/seat adjuster also has a very narrow adjustment range. you won't be able to adapt as easily to a huge change in grip levels. going from 90* on concrete to 40* on wet asphault needs a BIG change in damper forces, something you won't get with a needle/seat style damper. you'll either be close on one and really far off on the other or not very close for either. defeats the purpose of having an adjustable shock, IMO.

adjusting ride height from the bottom of the damper is well and good, but koni's with the gc top hats get you ALL the suspension travel you'll ever need. you can't get more then that since you are now limited by the uca and tire contacting the strut tower/fender. and who would want LESS suspension travel? spring preload is really unnecessary and a topic worthy of it's own discussion so i won't cover it here. simply put, if you don't know why you'd ever want or need preload and you don't know how a zero droop suspesion setup works, you don't need to worry about it.

the koni's adjust the actual bleed orifice size. this is a much more expensive approach to making an adjustable damper but has the benefit of giving you more adjustment range (100% adjustment range, ie full stiff is double the force as full soft), more control over low speed forces, true independant control over rebound (and if you went to a double adjustable at $$$texas compression would be adjustable too) and a high tolerance for manufacturing defects, contaminants, and wear.

one other big difference is that most needle/seat style shocks have a linear or progressive damper curve. this isn't good for handling performance or ride quality. what you want is what is referred to as a digressive damper curve. koni's have that too. to my knowledge, the only other low cost damper setup that has a digressive damper curve are the Tien Flex. those would be my 3rd suggestion after the bilstein's. i like the bilsteins because they are a mono-tube damper (my only real complaint about the koni sports is that they are a twin tube, but that really doesn't matter unless your running 1000lbs/in springs like i am) and relatively cheap to revalve. their drawback is that they are not adjustable. anyway, hth.

nate
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
depends ur purpose, for daily use or race track use. but i think, front 8 and rear 6 or even front 10 and rear 8 will be alright setting for daily and sometime race uses.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top