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you will need a 3/8” ratchet, 12mm/14mm/17mm sockets, 12mm, 14mm/17mm box end wrenches and a set of alan keys (hex wrenches). Not shown is a spring compressor.

Step 3: Check your springs and make sure that the ones you have are for your car. Hint* 92 and up civic will fit 94 and up Integra and vice versa as well as 92 Civic fits 96 Civics.

Step 4: Jack up the front of the car, remove the wheels and set the car onto jack stands. If you are on an incline, be sure to block the rear wheels so that it doesn’t roll off.

Step 5: You will need to loosen the two (or three) nuts on the top of the assembly. These are 14mm nuts. Loosen them but do not remove them completely

Step 6: Loosen the 14mm bolt the holds the suspension fork to the strut. Again don’t remove, just loosen.

Step 7: Loosen and remove the 17mm nut off of the bottom of the suspension fork. You will need to hold the other side with the 17mm wrench. Hint* if you use the wrench to break loose the nut and hold the bolt with the ratchet, it will keep from busting your knuckles. Also, after you break it loose spin off the nut with the ratchet, it is easier that trying to spin the whole bolt. Remove the nut but leave the bolt in.

Step 8: Loosen and remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the brake line onto the strut.

Step 9: At this time remove the 14mm bolt from the top of the fork and the 17mm bolt from the bottom, separate the fork from the strut and move out of the way.

Step 10: If you have one, place all of your bolts and nuts into a magnetic tool tray so you don’t loose them. If you don’t have a magnetic tray, get a cup of something that can keep them safe from getting kicked around.

Step 11: Now, grab the strut and remove the two top 14mm nuts and set those in your tray. Don’t let the strut fall it is a bit heavy. Remove the strut and set aside. Do the same to the other side and set it aside. Hint* be sure to keep track of which side is right and left.

Step 12: Find the correct size alan key and insert it into the top of the strut. Use the 14mm wrench to loosen the nut. This particular car had cut springs so we didn’t need to use the spring compressor. If you are changing stock springs, place the strut assembly into the spring compressor. If you don’t have a compressor, click here

Step 13: Sometimes the strut washers come apart. The most important washer is the seat washer and it has to be on there regardless. Normally this will remain attached to the strut but if for some reason it comes off replace back onto the strut rod. There is only one way that this washer can be put on so look at it carefully. You will notice it is beveled inside, look at the strut rod and you will see where it goes.

Step 14: Place the new spring onto the strut. The spring has a certain way to go on. You will notice that the spring is flat on the top and has a little piece the sticks out on the bottom. This piece must go into the special seat on the strut.

Step 15: This is a big thing. At least on Neuspeed springs, they are labeled; front and back. I tell you this because I see all the time people coming in with rear springs on the front and fronts on the rear. Then they wonder why it rides differently. After you do this a while you will be able to tell which is front and which is rear simply by looking at them or testing the spring rate, until then just check you instruction manual.

Step 16: After you have put the assembly back together, this is what it should look like.

Step 17: Now to re-install them, all you have to do is follow the directions in reverse order. Note* when you tighten the nuts and bolts, they don’t have to be SUPER tight. They only need about 50-65 ft lbs. of torque (1/2 turn past tight) Re-install the tires and lower the car down. Torque on the Honda/Acura lug nuts is 80-85 ft lbs. Lower the vehicle and move to the rear.

Step 18: Jack up the rear and place it on jack stands. Notice how I have the jack still under the car. I have that for a safety reason, after you lower the vehicle onto the stands, raise the jack back up and put a little pressure on the car. This is because if for some reason the car starts to fall, I can jack it back up quickly.

Step 19: Remove the upper plastic covers and expose the top of the strut. Loosen, but do not remove these 14mm nuts.

Step 20: Loosen and remove the 14mm bolt on the lower part of the strut connected to the lower control arm.

Step 21: This is an easier way than trying to compress the strut together, loosen and remove the inboard 14mm bolt that connects the control arm to the chassis. This will allow you to pull the arm down and remove the strut assembly a lot easier.

Step 22: Again, be sure to keep track of your bolts and remember where they came out of. Hint* the bolt that is tapered on the end is from the control arm/chassis point. You will not need a wrench for the rears since the bolts or welded to the chassis.

Step 23: While holding the strut assembly, remove the top 14mm bolts (or just let it drop, I won’t tell), and then set aside. Do the same to the other side.

Step 24: Do the same thing to the rear struts that you did to the front struts as far as changing out the springs and reassemble.

Step 25: This is what a correct set up should look like (minus the blown strut).

Step 26: Re-install the rear struts in the exact reverse order you took them out. Remember, the bolts only need 50-65 ft lbs. of torque.

Step 27: Re-install the wheel and lower the vehicle. This is what it looks like with the new (used) lowering springs. Notice the trash springs in the foreground
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