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What it does: Replaces upper control arm balljoint with sliding unit for camber adjustment.

Vehicle: 1989 Honda CRX Si.

Purchased online about a year ago, not eBay, about $150 for the pair.

Preparation: Remove old welded on balljoint- air hammer with chisel tip takes about 1 minute. I cleaned the burrs with a die grinder and an alum oxide stone.

Installation: Each balljoint has an upper and lower sliding plate, nut, washer, and the balljoint. Instructions say it just clamps together when you run the nut down on the stud. Tough to do. I think it would be better to jig and weld the unit to the arm. It's up to you to align it perpendicular to the bushing centerline axis. Also, you have to align the upper and lower plates to each other; no indexing pin.

On the car: The upper plate has 5 lines scribed along the slot where the stud slides. The instructions don't say what they indicate, degrees maybe, but I'm not sure. Doesn't matter anyway, as they can't be seen once the car is back on the ground. The new balljoint is about 50% longer, thus the control arm is pushed up past the body seam, dangerously close to the top of the cavity. This also puts the balljoint at a severe angle.
Since the arm is now so far up, access to the adjustment nut is lost. How does one adjust this thing with the car on it's wheels?

Summary: Unacceptable! I suspect that severe suspension movement would have the control arm contacting the body. I also dislike the angle the joint sits at, it could be a safety issue. I will change these out as soon as I can get new control arms or conventional balljoints.
 

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Lule said:
What it does: Replaces upper control arm balljoint with sliding unit for camber adjustment.

Vehicle: 1989 Honda CRX Si.

Purchased online about a year ago, not eBay, about $150 for the pair.

Preparation: Remove old welded on balljoint- air hammer with chisel tip takes about 1 minute. I cleaned the burrs with a die grinder and an alum oxide stone.

Installation: Each balljoint has an upper and lower sliding plate, nut, washer, and the balljoint. Instructions say it just clamps together when you run the nut down on the stud. Tough to do. I think it would be better to jig and weld the unit to the arm. It's up to you to align it perpendicular to the bushing centerline axis. Also, you have to align the upper and lower plates to each other; no indexing pin.

On the car: The upper plate has 5 lines scribed along the slot where the stud slides. The instructions don't say what they indicate, degrees maybe, but I'm not sure. Doesn't matter anyway, as they can't be seen once the car is back on the ground. The new balljoint is about 50% longer, thus the control arm is pushed up past the body seam, dangerously close to the top of the cavity. This also puts the balljoint at a severe angle.
Since the arm is now so far up, access to the adjustment nut is lost. How does one adjust this thing with the car on it's wheels?

Summary: Unacceptable! I suspect that severe suspension movement would have the control arm contacting the body. I also dislike the angle the joint sits at, it could be a safety issue. I will change these out as soon as I can get new control arms or conventional balljoints.
I had kinda the same problem with my Drop Zone Extreme camber kits... its actually designed to move the whole control arm forward or back depending on camber adjustment. But the point im making is, I had to Literally cut away my control arm to increase the amount of movement the control arm can make so that it does NOT hit the wheel well. I wondering now if the lower ball joint design from SPC is better than all this...
 

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as far as camber kits im happy with my skunk2 upper arms
 
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Yes the camber options for the ef suck.
I tried both types , ball replacemnt found the ball to long crap
the sliding arm type aka moves the pivot point down & out so you hit your
frame & lose suspension stroke.
The bushing replacemnt one was my last pick and should have been 1st...
it replaces the bushing where the upper arms bolt to the brackets that hold the uca
to the chassis , (breeth) with cam bolts ..imho they are the "LEAST" of a pita
to adjust once on the car , I bought a 17mm wrench & ground it thinner to
be able to get into the cavity where you can adjust..pita
BUT it did not have the uca jammed into my chassis and the price was not INSANE
AND I got camber under control with a set of sportlines...
SPC part no# 84700 , you need 2 comes for each side.
Hope this helps
http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/C_PROD_passcar_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=84700&cmd3=
peace
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What I really want is that engineers head on a stick! I threw those damn things away a couple of weeks ago. You get a weird feeling tossing $150 into the trashcan.
 
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