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Discussion Starter #1
well my hearts always been with D series but since i did the rhd swap im using a SIR engine bay that isnt compatible w d series. So i went w an lsv setup. Ive done some searching online and every thread i come across people are giving diff opinions and not a straight answer. So heres what i have.

Ls block w Eagle h beams ls crank Je 10.1 compression pistons. I want to make around 450 w room to grow. Im using a b16 head stock at the moment but thats pretty much my setup. So my ques is should i run a stock oem 3 layer gasket .030 thickness which would make my cr 10.16 - 1 or should i opt for a .051 thick gasket and have a cr of 9.68-1. I ve head a few bad things on running a thicker gasket but then ive heard good. Same with running a 10-1 compression ratio have heard good and bad also. So before i go an sell these and order a new set whats your opinions and what are some pros and cons thanks guys i appreciate all the input
 

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i really think you will be fine barring any unforseen issues that wouldnt be related to your comp ratio. you gotta think they boost gsr stock into the 300s easy and they are 10.2:1 i believe.Stock head should be fine for your goal, heck look at some of these d-series on here hitting 3-400 on stock port heads. Anyone correct me if im wrong please.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i planned on doin some headwork p&p victor x mani gsr cams w some dished valves nothing serious
 

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i planned on doin some headwork p&p victor x mani gsr cams w some dished valves nothing serious
I would leave the P&P to a professional.
That way if they screw something up, they are the ones that are going to be ponying up the money to replace the bad boy- not you.
At least the porting.
 

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For your goal of 450 plus the B has all kinds of room to grow. The high CR will give you the bottom end launch. Whatever headgasket you currently own will be good as long as its MLS OEM Honda. What's your higher HP goal? That will decide if you just need to clean the ports up on the head, or get yo grind on. A simple gasket match, polish the fool out of the exhaust side, and 80 grit finish on the intake side. If the intake side is too smooth you get pooling of fuel. GL with it all.
 

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THE CRX
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no one here has said anything out of the ordinary.

Want to see an engine with YOUR set up on 20 pounds and no sleeve?

it was done easy too. The HG should be OEM, my homie just blew his HG and it was multilayered.

You can use a stock Hg just fine, after he replaced it, he did this.

This is from a thread i made 2 weeks ago.

This is a retune AFTER he blew the HG, got a single layered oem one, oiled everything up, checked the pistons rings, all that good stuff.

The vid im referring to is the 3rd one down. You looking for those numbers? thats a simple setup, shot of some methanol, or some spray of nitrous, could do it also.

But you want turbo power with no lag and real power huh? 20-22 PSI should do it. A Good turbo, the right size and tune? pow and zoom, right to the moon alice.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/157129-my-homeboy-richs-shop-auburn.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10
an oem b series headgasket is 3 layered.. .026xxx is what it measures out to. if i went w a 1 layer my cr would be higher
 

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I am also building a GSR turbo with Arias 10.2 to 1 compression ratio pistons. Its all in the tune. Just remember that JDM GSRs are 10.6 to 1 and they boost them things all day long and thats on stock cast oem pistons.
 

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THE CRX
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an oem b series headgasket is 3 layered.. .026xxx is what it measures out to. if i went w a 1 layer my cr would be higher
higher compression? better boost, withOUT a high CR rate?, you arent going to accomplish much in the power dept.

at least get an 11:1.1

stay within range of pump fuel. or go all the way to 12:5.5

still no big deal. A high comp build is needed to get what you want.

but like u said, oem is fine, it runs fine, but without those pistons and HG thickness producing high amounts of CR, you arent gonna do much.

Raising my boys compression is how rich tuned got more power out of it that day. did you watch the vid? we were only shooting for about 400-420.

437 WHP on the dyno and the axle was broken? yeah its a done deal.
 

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You know for a fact that those pistons yield that compression ratio with that head? I think you'd be fine either way but I'd want to be able to tell my tuner exact details of the engine, especially c/r.

My piston/rod LSV is similar to yours except I am using a GSR head and IIRS my c/r is closer to 10.5:1 with those pistons and a "guess" on how much has been removed from the head since it had been milled once before I owned it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i was goin by zealautoworks compression calculator and i put in the head and block combo i was goin w Ls bottom with b16 head. I ve seen people do it before but didnt know if it was good or not. i guess ill stick with these i mean this is just goin by a calculator online i go to a very reputible tuner hes very good 90 percent of the cars he tunes is honda he s very trustworthy
 

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are you gonna cam it down the road when you decide its time to grow? just something to keep in mind as piston to valve clearance can get tight on this kind of build.
 

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an advanced cam is gonna be necessary for what he wants....in the end. Using a gsr or b series cam is cool, it justs limits you to realism and not what money can buy.

stock isnt meant for dragging up to a certain point. Its breaking limit proves its durability as a oem cam, but then again there are advanced stages for a reason.
 

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I'm running an LS/V w/ LS pistons/rods, B16 head, and GSR cams. I used a Cometic HG and my compression, according to Zeal, is around 10.2:1. I plan on going boost so my effective compression will be around 17-18:1. Just tell your tuner exactly what you have, and they can work their "witchcraft" to make it go.
 

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I'd get specs on those pistons and re-enter it in the calculator so you know exactly what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
10.25 to 1 was the exact i entered it a couple times. Yes i mean id be happy w 400 for now then eventually get cams etc. to hit the 5 to 6 range
 
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