Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well.....hey everyone. i'm back at it like a crack addict.

in OKC, have 2 vehicles...nothing honda...and need some input. I'm coming here for the simple fact that you guys, and gals?, are awesome.

first....04 grand cherokee. 4L motor. 250k miles.
-is leaking coolant from a bracket above the drain plug. Is jb weld and option or should i replace the whole thing??
I run straight coolant...i know, i know..i shouldn't...but i do. Is that why its leaking..due to corrosion?

next: 2006 altima. runs like absoulte shit.like...shit. 248K miles
got it from my sister and its been rode hard. Feels like a motor mount is jerking, sounds like its missing and the back caliper is stuck. it sounds like it has a cam in it when i stop. no clunks or anything but it fells like the motor is jerking, kind of. its hard to explain.

4 new coils is first up.
new breaks all the way around

how can i check a motor mount??


I know this is nothing related to hondas, but, its basic shit we have probably, all dealt with.
 

·
Registered
Sloppy Jalopy
Joined
·
1,695 Posts
I want the whole thing ,hehe

what is he replacing?
the whole cherokee?
why is coolant coming out of a bolt hole.. take out the bolt and put some gasket sealer or teflon tape on it.
put some water in the coolant...


and the other, its a nissan isn't that enough ?

check a motor mount with the sense of sight .

or pop the hood slam into gear and see what side of the engine comes out of the engine bay the most.

I would scrap the nissan because fuck those things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I want the whole thing ,hehe

what is he replacing?
the whole cherokee?
why is coolant coming out of a bolt hole.. take out the bolt and put some gasket sealer or teflon tape on it.
put some water in the coolant...


and the other, its a nissan isn't that enough ?

check a motor mount with the sense of sight .

or pop the hood slam into gear and see what side of the engine comes out of the engine bay the most.

I would scrap the nissan because fuck those things.
i woudl replace the whole radiator.

there is a bracket that holds it onto the frame. Its coming from that bracket. I thought it was coming from the drin hole, but its not.

The nissan is my wifes and she wont let me scrap it.
 

·
Registered
Love the Civic
Joined
·
1,817 Posts
You can use MAF sensor cleaner, cheap in a spray can uses the forced air to blow away particles and the liquid, like alcohol, wont hurt electronics as it evaporates.

Had a shot to get your self some nice cars and get your self cleaned up and in order, seems you went the route I so often have, it's gone, shyt's broken and I cant even find the shyt I bought......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can use MAF sensor cleaner, cheap in a spray can uses the forced air to blow away particles and the liquid, like alcohol, wont hurt electronics as it evaporates.

Had a shot to get your self some nice cars and get your self cleaned up and in order, seems you went the route I so often have, it's gone, shyt's broken and I cant even find the shyt I bought......
the money.....didnt come thru,unfortunately. apparently, the recession of '08 hit everything. that included.

anyway...yea. they both run but need work. we have had the jeep for over a year. just got the altima.

you doing good?
 

·
Premium Member
90 crx si/96 accord
Joined
·
788 Posts
The jeep: seriously? Jb weld? Cmon, it's probably a 2$ frost plug lol.

Nissan: get a scanner so you can view lI've data, Google around to find specs for the readings at idle and also at the specified rpm range. Also monitor your fuel trims, take special note of whats going on in the long term, higher numbers indicate a air leak, requiring more fuel.

Also assuming you've done the basic plugs wires and fuel filter correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The jeep: seriously? Jb weld? Cmon, it's probably a 2$ frost plug lol.

Nissan: get a scanner so you can view lI've data, Google around to find specs for the readings at idle and also at the specified rpm range. Also monitor your fuel trims, take special note of whats going on in the long term, higher numbers indicate a air leak, requiring more fuel.

Also assuming you've done the basic plugs wires and fuel filter correct?
i never thought about the freeze plugs..holy shit *not sarcastic*

scan tool came back with a misfire and a duplicate for the bank 1 cat.

nothing has been done to the nissan yet. just got it and i dont get paid till friday. coils, plugs and o2 sensor is first on the list.

now i need to find diagram of where the freeze plugs are on the jeep.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok.....did some googling and all the freeze plugs are on the block itself. my leak is coming from a bracket above the rad drain. it looks like it connects the rad support to the frame itself and thats where the leak is at. it a slow steady leak. when i drive on the highway to get home, it leaks for a few minutes. have a decent size puddle but my coolant level never drops. well...it did, but its just below the neck.

still a freeze plug?? which, weirdly, isn't called that becvause they pop out when they freeze. the are called that because they used to run alcohol instead of antifreeze and they would pop out when you got a hard freeze..hence, freeze plug. they are actually just plugs to fill in the casting holes from here the sand was drained once the block was cast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,806 Posts
jeep is easy fix. dont use JB weld.

nissan. these are commonly dealing with shitty owners who dont change the oil often enough. the valve train hates being clogged with gunk, and the timing chain tensioners are known to be pissy little bitches and fail so they dont keep proper tension.


Highly suggest you decide if the nissan is worth the effort. dont throw parts at it like an idiot. tats a good way to waste a lot of money. Im willing to bet if its been driven hard, it firstly needs a very good oil system cleaning to help the valvetrain work proeprly again.

those solenoids up top are a good candidate for removing, cleaning the ever living snot out of them, and bolting them back in with new gaskets/orings, and go to a 1,000 mile oil change interval 2 or 3 times to see if there is an improvement.


timing chain tensioners on the VQ motors also love giving up and allowing timing to slip out of spec and cause a lumpy idle with pretty poor high rpm performance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
jeep is easy fix. dont use JB weld.

nissan. these are commonly dealing with shitty owners who dont change the oil often enough. the valve train hates being clogged with gunk, and the timing chain tensioners are known to be pissy little bitches and fail so they dont keep proper tension.


Highly suggest you decide if the nissan is worth the effort. dont throw parts at it like an idiot. tats a good way to waste a lot of money. Im willing to bet if its been driven hard, it firstly needs a very good oil system cleaning to help the valvetrain work proeprly again.

those solenoids up top are a good candidate for removing, cleaning the ever living snot out of them, and bolting them back in with new gaskets/orings, and go to a 1,000 mile oil change interval 2 or 3 times to see if there is an improvement.


timing chain tensioners on the VQ motors also love giving up and allowing timing to slip out of spec and cause a lumpy idle with pretty poor high rpm performance
i fell i might be able to do a 3.5 swap and a 6 speed change over for maybe 1k$.

seem like a better deal??


http://imgur.com/a/fhme0


i formated nothing correctly. here is the link to the pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,806 Posts
well shit. I for some reason thought you already had the 3.5

2.5's are known for similar issues, though mostly the oil system getting goobered up is the most ocmmon issue.

3.5 swpa is NOT as easy as you think. more to it than just a harness and ecu swap with those goodies. nissan electronics are not fun to mess with. they already fuss toomuch in stock form.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well shit. I for some reason thought you already had the 3.5

2.5's are known for similar issues, though mostly the oil system getting goobered up is the most ocmmon issue.

3.5 swpa is NOT as easy as you think. more to it than just a harness and ecu swap with those goodies. nissan electronics are not fun to mess with. they already fuss toomuch in stock form.
see...fuck this shit.

ill post back tomorrow.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top