[Anser]

Hey gang,
I drained my tranny to swap out my shift shaft seal (which didn’t end up fitting thanks to Timken), and I had to refill through the reverse switch as my fill bolt would not come off at all. I removed the battery in order to reach the reverse switch as well. Upon reconnecting battery and firing car up, the CEL stays on. The car did not have a CEL prior to disconnecting battery.
In addition, the car seems to be running rougher and after giving some light gas (i’d say about ~2000 RPM), the car bogs badly and almost dies. If I gradually and gently apply throttle, it will stay at a solid idle, but if I blip the throttle it will drop the RPMs. When I find some time, I will be burping the coolant and will check my IACV, but is there any other ideas as to why my CEL came in out of nowhere? Any help would be appreciated.

I am a new member and might be important to mention car is a bone stock ‘91 DX with a D15B2 5 speed.

 

[Oldcivicjoe]

Jump the check connector and count the long and short flashes, long flashes for the 10s place short flashes for 1s. The check connector is located above the carpet under the glovebox, 2 pins usually blue but I have seen some green ones.

 

[Anser]

Jump the check connector and count the long and short flashes, long flashes for the 10s place short flashes for 1s. The check connector is located above the carpet under the glovebox, 2 pins usually blue but I have seen some green ones.

I would be checking and counting ECU flashes correct? I will try first thing after work today and will report what I find.

 

[Anser]

I would be checking and counting ECU flashes correct? I will try first thing after work today and will report what I find.

Alrighty, I got home and shoved a paper clip in the plug, and behold...Code Six. Welp, time to go down the rabbit hole.

 

[Oldcivicjoe]

That is the ECT sensor code, possible wires got tugged on removing the reverse light switch to fill, if i recall correctly the wires for both exit the loom at the same point on the b2 harness.

 

[bobski]

Jump the check connector and count the long and short flashes, long flashes for the 10s place short flashes for 1s.

FYI, that doesn't work on pre-OBD cars ('91 and earlier). There's one LED on '88-91 cars (pull back the passenger footwell carpet - there's a hole in the ECU hold-down plate that lets you see the LED) that does only short blinks. ECUs prior to that had 4 LEDs that gave you the code number in binary IIRC.