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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
90 CRX converted to OBD1 via jumper harness, has worked fine for a couple years, drove into work today and it was 100% fine the whole way, shut it down and worked all day. When I went to drive home I turned on the key and the CEL remained on, plus no fuel pump. Cranked it over anyway and not a single pop, turned it off and waited and tried again with nothing. Jumpered the service connector to check the codes and the CEL remains solid.

I checked all the fuses, checked the jumper harness, resoldered the contacts on the main relay. None of it made any difference.

All I can think is my ECU died, but it isnt wet, and it looks and smells fine. I will still try it with my other ECU tomorrow and see if that works.

Any other ideas?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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grounds?
 

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Love the Civic
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My civic did this, I could flick the main relay and get it to click, then the pump would prime. After a while this stopped working as whatever was wrong in my wiring harness or ECU got worse and worse.

I was loosing power through some ground fault. The ecu would be missing the 12vdc at pin something and no fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can check the grounds, but I know the battery to frame to tranny ground is good, and I know both the thermostat and valve cover ground is good.
 

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isnt a solid CEL indicate wiring fault? mine does this because my o2 sensors are not being used.

could wiggle the distributor wiring and see if its not seeing a cranking activity
 

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It could be something with the jumper harness. But could be something else.

Right now I have a similar problem with a 92 integra that I'm trying to figure out. Solid cel,no fuel pump. I have tried 3 different Ecu and same thing. So it has to be in the wiring some where.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just seems wierd it happened while parked..... I assume it is something that came loose while the car was running, that didnt effect it while it was running, but now wont allow it to start. I guess a loose ground or loose wire is the best explination for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bad ECU.

Checked the major grounds this morning, they were all good, tried starting the car and solid cel, no fuel pump, no joy. Put in the p28 out of my other car, turned on the key and cel came on and clicked off like normal and the fuel pump primed, turned it to start and it started right up. Turned it off and tried the original ECU again and got nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Apparently the C14 capacitor in OBD1 honda ECUs is known to go bad and cause fuel pump issues, here is a list of the digikey part numbers for all the electrolyte caps:

pgmfi.org ? View topic - p06-a50 capacitor blew?? wtf?

I got 2 sets for less than $4 before shipping. I figure the ~$10 is worth it.
 

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exact reason why even though the auto p06 I just got looks fresh as hell inside, im having someone replace all the "chancy" components before even turning the key lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
As far as I have read the electrolyte capacitors, the ones that look like small tubular batteries, are the only thing that age should be a factor with.

Do you know if they are replacing anything besides those?
 

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I believe a couple of the "honey drop" caps that stand on 2 legs are sometimes failing.

im personally not sure. but at the price of these components you can do a total refresh on ecu components for under $50 if you go by a few of the old pgfi posts (as in any components that have been documented to fail, regardless of how often reported)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There is a bunch of things that can be cooked: the injector drivers, q31, q32, q34 transistors, various ceramic caps etc, but those are not age or use related from what I have read, they get blown from hooking things up wrong, so replacing then ahead of time wont help any.
 

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Any of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors can dry out/leak over time and are most prominent to failure. I would be tempted to replace them with the same value tantalum capacitor if I were going through an ECU replacing parts...a little bit more pricey but definitely an upgrade in the performance of the capacitor (lower internal impedance and sealed much better).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Anyone have a relatively high res picture of a P06 in the area around the 2 large caps closest to the ECU plugs? Mine had apparently leaked, and that whole area is gone, I need to see if there are any surface traces there, or if they are all on the backside.
 

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I have an auto p06 I can snap pics of if rob's above picture is oriented differently than you need
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks! That should be good I think!
 
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